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Agreed. Thanks for posting this. I had missed this thread until yesterday, but I was able to calibrate my printer much better using this method. Any chance we can get this thread pinned? You are welcome! Try by entering all the towers values at once in the EEPROM, that makes the process even easier...

DGBK wrote:Thanks so much for this post. I was having quite a bit of trouble with the manual, but this got me through the calibration process very quickly.

Glad it helped, really!

noddynomolos wrote:Great thread guys!
Art thanks for posting your spreadsheet. I have downloaded it and will be using it forthwith

Happy that it has been used over time!

I found this on the repetier site, which seems to be exactly what you're describing, but easier? I haven't tried it, but it sounds like it accomplishes the same goal - use a stick to get all the motors to the exact same height, then the firmware figures out the offsets. http://www.repetier.com/docu...

Here is my most recent version of the excel I am using. It would be easier to create it as a program, webpage, or even better, an app, that would ask only for the offset values of each tower ... but I guess I am too lazy for that (if you do it, please, let me know!) :-) By the way, I have been able ...

Hi everyone. After many unsuccessful hours trying to calibrate X, Y, and Z tower using the end-stop screws, I decided to try the calibration using only the EEPROM. As teoman and some other users mentioned, it seems that I cannot use negative values for the Tower X, Y, Z endstop offset (it´s as if i...

Have you uploaded your vented side panels anywhere? Looks like the ones by redoverred posted last year. http://repables.com/r/426 Yup, these are not mine! :-) I will make the top pannels, tho. Or .. if somebody already have the files, I will be happy to sleep two more hours one of these nights inte...

This is how it looks with not a bunch of ilumination

No idea the costs. Regarding the clean view. It is really nice looking. It is just that the picture has lots of ligth which accent the layers, but to the "naked eye", it looks very clean.

Besides, a TRUE maker loves the layered profile

I needed a cover for the LCD in a Rostock Max V2 for and upgraded "old" V1 to V2 (the basic upgrade kit has no LCD Cover nor panels).

Here are the stl : http://repables.com/r/624" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

and, some pics once printed.

Hi, all. I'm the guy who opened this post... been away for quite some time (personal/family stuff). Back--and need to get going here with this 3D stuff. I have a couple projects that I NEED to get out of my head! :-) So, I have Windows 7 Home Premium. I cannot spring for SolidWorks, (and I'm not a ...

Thank you for volunteering guys. I will post the file when I get home tonight. Wow that speaker thread is insane! I will play with the current of my steppers to see if that does anything. This printer is really amazing. I’ve printed a few things after my 11” diameter meltdown and since I can’t prin...

I did that like 1 year ago, using a V1. I have to increase the current for the step motors not to "fall" when printing very low. Cannot recall for sure, but I think I had to mount the hot end below as well. Printed using my "old" V1 printer, never tried in my other 2 new, V2 Rost...

Hi, I wanted to download the .stl files but the Akemake website is offline. Would it be possible that you can send me the .stl files? Thanks, Martin I also would like the stl if possible .web site is offlinePhill Sorry guys, the design is not mine, and in the past the designer, Ondra Chotvinsky, le...

Just want to thank you again for your post. I use it often and I think it is a very useful post. Your welcome! Actually, I have kind of evolved the method using a excel spreadsheet to get all the feedback, and now is my only way to calibrate: no screws at all. And, can calibrate to very I have been...

The consensus from those who've looked at the patents appears to be the novelty is using the relatively new PTFE AF 2400 sheet tensioned as what hobbyists call a stretch vat. This alleviates the need to break the surface seal so you can print continuously. That's the bulk of the speed win, the rest...

Hey Guys, I guess you noticed the "Continuous Liquid Interface Production" (CLIP) announcement from Carbon3D. At first glance, I thought it same technology as LittleRP/DropLit, the hype was just marketing, nothing new. Indeed, it is A LOT of marketing :-) BUT, also, the "only" ne...

hey, thanks for the tip .... I got some Noctua and what a nice and quiet fan!

Picked up two last night! Looks good but instructions are a little spotty. nitewatchman A couple of months later; I just found these and I am considering them (1 or 2 for now, maybe 3 so I have an excuse for a_NOTHER hot end). If I (& others) may benefit from your experience; How did they work ...

Thanks to you, I had a (no so good) idea ! I think the best way to prevent moisture recovery, is to work in a printer which is totally close and a bit heated (I will not speak there about the interest of printing in a closed volume, but it would increase a lot most of printings...) If your spool is...

Thank you for you interest.. Your idea makes sense, yes, but I can't confirm that it will work.. Furthermore, if you encouter a moisture issue, you just have to put you filament to oven at the good temp and during the good time, you would not damage anything... Just look at this datasheet, this is ...

Here are a couple of pics I received from Tech Support. Also - the manual references putting 3 cheapskates and 6 R4 bearing bushings - - what you will have in the build kit is 2 solid strips of 4 R4 bearing bushings - these do not come apart - you will have 4 cheapskate bearings on the front side o...

Hi everybody Before all, please excuse my unperfect english, it's not a mother tongue for me :oops: I introduce myself as an absolute begginner with 3D print (never done, but soon...) I work in plastics for 8 years, especially injection molding, and we have exactly the same issue, but worse, we can...

This is a test we have to perform on Nylon Injected Parts in my day job. Here we are intentionally adding water after molding to "temper" or increase the impact strength of the nylon for railroad tie pads for concrete ties. To measure the sample is accurate weighted in it's wet condition ...