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Most 2000-grit stuff I've seen is wet-dry - when you're sanding / polishing that finely, having some water around helps to carry away the material you're removing, and prevent your paper from clogging up.

In the right now, I'll show you a trick. It involves a strip of skinny plastic from some clamshell packaging that we all have laying around. Oh, wait. The problem's already solved in the bloody build manual. :roll: A pretty good build manual isn't it? :) Yeah, it's almost like geneb knows what he's...

In the right now, I'll show you a trick. It involves a strip of skinny plastic from some clamshell packaging that we all have laying around.

Oh, wait. The problem's already solved in the bloody build manual.

First two paragraphs: I have no idea what you're trying to say, and my head's hurting trying to parse it. The key points are that the inner plate needs to be parallel with the inner face of the tower extrusion, and the motion up and down needs to be smooth to avoid load on the steppers, as well as r...

I have a pack of really tiny ones - they actually are about 5mm x 5mm, so they don't really overhang at all. I got a 10-pack for heatsinking a Raspberry Pi, and used the leftovers on my Rambo. They've been fine on my driver chips. I also print in my basement - even as the summer heat rolls in, ambie...

Means there's no strain on the dock connector. Plus, I like having a landscape alarm clock - the app I use (Nightstand Central) looks better that way.

[img]http://i.imgur.com/xAuVD69l.jpg[/img] [img]http://i.imgur.com/QS7dVZJl.jpg[/img] Printed in MadeSolid PET+, 0.2mm layers, 20% infill. The design uses a setscrew in the back (or front if needed) to lock the charging cable in place, so the phone can just be slid in and out. Source files are over ...

Photos are hidden in plain sight!

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I have 3 out of 4 sides walled in with acrylic right now - built a box from OpenBeam. Just need to cut and drill for the holes for the hinges and rig some magnetic catches. The one thing I'm still thinking about is moving the extruder out of the build volume. 70C is probably not good for the extrude...

Hi all Just bought myself a Rostock and while waiting for the kit to show up, I've started looking for some high quality filament. Do you guys have any preferred brand of filament for use with the Rostock v2? I am looking for both PLA and ABS producing a nice surface quality. I am in Denmark, so a ...

I've had a beast of a time getting larger thin-walled parts to stay together as well. I designed an iPhone landscape charging cradle to put my phone on a bedside table and use as my clock, and it's got a big thin wall like that. Keeping your build area enclosed and warm will help (apparently, >70C i...

Hello, I like it when I post bad ideas because, I learn so much. I keep sending messages to support@seemecnc.com, and those are much more detailed. From what I understand, there's only one other from scratch tripod printer, and the rest are just running your software, or somebody elses. I've never ...

Since I immediately switched to an e3d hotend after building my kit, here's how I'm wired: 18AWGx4 wire - 2 for the hotend, 2 for the e3d heatsink fan. Hotend is on an XT60 connector, fan is one of those polarized locking connectors like the RAMBO board. Cat6 cable (24AWGx4 pairs) - one pair for the...

Same disclaimer. I was considering rainbow loom bands, 600 for $2.50, or grab a few from the kids... add two or more for more force. Since I still need to print my connection plates I could add them. tube_bands.JPG That's a friggin' clever idea. I think those bands are a silicone rubber, so they sh...

Very cool. I've worked with Pt100 RTDs before - generally even more accurate than K-type thermocouples - I've got some in my homebrewing system. They're also our standard device of choice at work. I haven't researched into what form factors I could get one in, but it would be another nice option - a...

I believe geneb's build guide recommends cutting a ribbon of aluminum foil and wrapping it around the resistor body (being careful to wind straight so the foil doesn't contact the leads). I got a decent light-press fit with foil, then RTV'd the ends.

You shouldn't be covering the body of the resistor with RTV. Just filling in the ends to secure it in place.

gestalt73, by what I have read and tested myself more/longer magnets does not gain any more strength. I could not tell a noticeable difference between 1/4 dia. x 3/8 long mags and 1/4 x 3/4 long I saw on one of the google discussions that you get into diminishing returns once the length of a cylind...

John Oly at SeeMe told me what was wrong... screw-in tmist from RP One Labs is different than the stock one. There is a value in firmware that needs tweaked called "GENERIC_THERM1_BETA 4450" 4450 is the value for the stock thermistor I understand that this value is a way to shift the temp...

I think the 6-point idea makes sense, based on the shape of those error plots linked/discussed upthread.

Interesting. I wonder if you could use some kind of rubber mount for the fan to decouple the vibrations as well.

I figured 10W was a rather generous number.

I'm casting a no vote on the chains. Synchronous belting like we're using is the right tool for the job. These belts are just smaller versions of belting that is well-established as the way to move loads around when you don't have the same forces as CNC. They're not just rubber. They have kevlar rei...

It may be a little oversized. I think I had the radius actually set to 5.3mm. A little loose, but I used fairly copious amounts of epoxy to secure it.

Inside holes almost always print out smaller than designed.

I wonder how well a hot air plastic welder would work. Basically a heat gun but focused through a small nozzle (1/4"-3/8"). I'll put it on the list to try. Currently it will come to the top of the list bout November. nitewatchman I got a hot air rework station from sparkfun to use for thi...