Welcome to the SeeMeCNC Community

I'll try that. The only thing that's confusing me is why it's so far off given that my extruder is properly calibrated so it should be right, I mean I could see it being off by %1 or so, but not 20%ish.

I've had no luck with this issue so I figured I should post here to see if anyone else has any ideas. For a while now I've been having constant over extrusion issues, bad enough that the nozzle will collide with the blobs of over extruded material and shifting the location the printer is printing in...

Not familiar with the extruder mount of the V2, but if it's the same as the later model V1 then I can upload the one I made for mine. I believe it's the same, if you can upload I'll print and give it a shot. The bracket that e3d has would be a pain to use, I'd rather just bolt on in place of the ez...

Anyone got a mount print that'll work for the titan to the standard rostock max v2 mount? E3D doesn't have anything up yet. Not familiar with the extruder mount of the V2, but if it's the same as the later model V1 then I can upload the one I made for mine. I have my Titan installed now and so far ...

I have my Titan installed now and so far so good, haven't tried any difficult to extrude filament yet though, just some ABS. One thing to point out is definitely calibrate your extruder steps/mm as the 456 steps/mm that E3D's install guide was way off for me, I ended up with 403 steps/mm 20160416_18...

My E3d v6 has arrived, and my Titan extruder will be here very soon. Anything special about the install for the titan? Looks like it should bolt right on. From the looks of it you'll need to print up at least some form of mounting plate, I ended up pulling the trigger on it and buying one which is ...

Definitely interested in how well it works, almost went and pulled the trigger yesterday but decided to hold off for some reviews of it, been wanting to upgrade to a geared extruder but didn't want one with too high of a ratio, was looking for something around 2:1 / 3:1 so it perfect just enough to ...

I use Solidworks for the vast majority of my modeling, however I have started using Zbrush a bit for when I need to sculpt more organic shapes which is not something Solidworks is good at.

Not really sure where to put this, but has anyone ever used larger diameter nozzles on their E3D successfully? I have several different nozzles for my E3d V6, one being a .8mm nozzle, however I simply can't consistently get successful prints with that nozzle, almost every print it ends up printing m...

Besides the easier nozzle change , another benefit would be that most standard layerfan shrouds will fit to this, provided that you add the mounts for them as with the standard platform! The low clearence of the E3D has been verry annoying imho. So please add the layerfanmounts!?!? The rest looks g...

That's an expensive solution for a simple nozzle change, especially if you want to have multiple nozzle sizes/types, .25 for fine detail, .4 general, .6/.8 less detailed fast printing, plus a harder material nozzle for printing abrasives, , you're talk an additional $240+ for multiple hotends instea...

So I've had the E3D V6 hotend on my printer for quite a while now and I ordered several nozzles for it, however I almost never change them due to the hassle involved. Of course with the E3D there's two ways to mount it, above the effector platform using longer standoffs for the fan to clear the effe...

The lever still operates as it's supposed to for me... Is your lever broken? Or perhaps your pivot screw is clamping down on the red lever instead of the 'axle' that it rotates around? The lever works and pulls the bearing away from the filament, it's just that with the filament going thru the tube...

The more and more I think about it the more I wonder if just eliminating the spring and red lever is a better solution, or at least reorient the spring to the side pushing directly on the left side of the bearing and get rid of the red lever since the lever is basically useless with the design as re...

Even a gcode file would be nice. From what I read Ultimaker uses the Marlin firmware. I will say too that their firmware is pretty nice, it has a very user friendly interface, we have one at my work, even calibrating the machine is done entirely from the printer using the control panel and knob. The...

So I'm wondering, but with an extruder like this making it mechanically possible, is there a way to modify the firmware to load/unload filament the way Ultimaker does it? For those not familiar with their printers, when you set it to change the filament it heats up the hotend and then turns on the e...

Printed up one over the weekend, so far no problems, though I mainly print with ABS, but mostly I wanted it for the easier loading of filament, was always a PITA on the original EZ struder design. The only I did have to do was run a drill thru the filament path as the top of the circle was a bit def...

I'm waiting for my Rostock Max V2 kit to arrive, and have already ordered the motor dampeners. I was wondering if there's been much thought in fitting Dynamat (or other similar sound-deadening mat) to the walls of the lower cabinet to help reduce noise and vibration transmission. I have done search...

I did try putting a bolt under the screw but it caused issues with one of the filaments I use, the hatchbox gold abs, that filament just seems to be way softer than other abs filaments, to the point that when I did that it distorted the filament so much it would bind on the Bowden tube so I took the...

I had actually done that maybe a month and a half ago because I was constantly having issues with under extruding, but now it's flipped to over extruding.

I have it set at .2mm, some of this globs that were building up on the nozzle and sticking to the parts were 3-4mm tall so the nozzle definitely would have hit them, and I'm using PEI so the parts weren't going to get bumped loose, I ended up dropping my flow rate down to 90% on a few prints which s...

Thanks Yup, they do lock the two halves of the main ball together, though I did still end up fusing them together with acetone anyways, but my first test one I didn't bother with the acetone.

I started this tradition last year after getting my printer of making an ornament to send in a package with cookies to my closest friend, last year it was a power star from Super Mario Bros, this year with The Force Awakens coming out I decided on the BB droid from said movie. This year I was smart ...

How would I check the stepper for this issue? Aside from it turning when power is applied, which it does just fine I'm not sure how else to test it for an intermittent issue like this. I was also noticing another issue which may have been the cause, or it may just be a coincident that I haven't had ...

Sorry, I have the Max V1 with the trick laser carbon fiber arms (my originals did seize on the rods) I did check everything from the effector plate all the way back to the steppers and everything looked fine and everything moved freely like it was supposed to.