Welcome to the SeeMeCNC Community

Nice, wide tops on those thumbscrews, too; won't have any trouble with the end point moving up and down with rotation.

I don't think the freezing gets you anything here. Freeze-drying is used where drying something at room temperature will damage it (e.g. food). We aren't worried about the plastic deforming (assuming you don't heat it up drastically), so just doing low pressure at room temperature (or somewhat raise...

hubrigant wrote:Oh my, all the time that I could have saved if all four plates would have been labeled XYZ on their top surface! It won't help me now, but PLEASE make this happen for future generations!

And a big +1 on THAT suggestion!


Dan

Should be fixed now. I forgot that this forum doesn't like URL's of FaceBook images, so I had to load them through Imgur. You probably checked in the 2 minutes it took me to get it right :) Quick on the draw, that's me. (Looks good now: thanks.) But, the new version is on the left (smaller, with ar...

[quote="Jimustanguitar"]Here's the difference between V1 and V2, if you guys are curious./quote]

Curious, yes; pictures, no (the links are broken).


Dan

Eaglezsoar wrote:As indicated if you did not run your stop
wires in the same tower as the step wires then you are golden.

Agreed, although I reeeeeeally wanted to see that video...

Finished, of course. That's when I mention that the copper wire has a preferred direction of current flow. Can't have the electrons running against the grain and getting all clogged up. Well, you can set up the correct E field gradient by laying the wire out flat and blowing really hard on what wil...

A new tweak, involving the EZStruder. I've been frustrated recently with binding in the filament guide block in two places: - 1.75mm filament tends to bind in the guide block, and any friction here is bad friction. To fix this I disassembled the guide block, removed the Bowden adaptor, reassembled t...

add1ct3dd wrote:As per my thread in this subforum, I've switched to a Corsair HX750 as I couldn't actually keep my temps up printing ABS.

Absolutely solid now, no LED flicker either...

Did you have to add any extra load to the 5V supply?

Eaglezsoar wrote:Thanks guys! I can't help it, I am on the board a lot and I like to talk!

Oh, noooo! You've posted, and now your count isn't 5000 any more!


Condolences,
Dan

I gotta ask: do you have anything to do with That 1 Guy? (Cool musician, BTW.)

I don't understand the advantage vs just moving the existing endstop screws... (I'm pleading ignorance, not refuting your statement) The problem with adjusting the end stops is that they only take effect when you home. So, if you find that one position is a little high, you have to adjust the end s...

Crack the power supply case, and you'll find that all wires of a given color come from the same place. So, yes: they're all interchangeable. Choose the ones that are long enough for your needs.


Dan

When the filament is heated while under a vacuum, am I correct that the water in the filament turns to steam (hydogen and oxygen gases) which then go through the vacuum pump and dissipates to the room air? The water turns to steam/vapor, but that's still H 2 O; it doesn't disassociate into hydrogen...

Mac The Knife wrote:Mmmm. cake. Maybe not so much for that, but I wonder how it would do making beef jerky.

Make a nice lemon meringue pie, and then desiccate it. For the next time you go hiking and want faux gourmet cooking.

Or, make a fruitcake that will truly last forever.




Or not.

Conductive ABS is already available. From filaments.ca for sure, at least. It is listed as high-resistance, though... and anti-static. Not really sure what the purpose of high-resistance conductivity is... unless you want to melt the part by running electricity through it? I would guess it's more f...

I'm wondering about the mass added by the water cooler, hoses, and the contained water. It might really slow things down. ("Might.")


Dan

Hmmm; I dislike the eccentric design, I would prefer something with a known pre-load, say a spring behind a SINGLE bearing on one side that is about mid way between two bearings on the opposite side. Picky, picky... I agree; the eccentrics are a pain. But, I'm guessing that, when set up properly, t...

Here's what I used:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000W20ZVA" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;



Dan

Dude, I got to view way out to see the entire image. I've seen this on other threads here also by other people. I'm working on 19" monitors, so that's not the problem. Is this a php problem? I have the same problem (Chrome on OS X; using "prosilver" style for message display), but un...

I have tried isolating the endstop/stepper wires from one another as best I can in the limited confines of the electronics bay with no apparent change in behaviour. I'm tempted to try throwing ferrite donuts on the endstop wires just to see if it makes any difference. Thoughts on this? I have mixed...

I have a Rostock MAX v2 (shipped early March this year), and I've been printing fairly successfully with ABS. However, I recently switched to PLA (from Prototype Supply), and it just isn't working. The symptoms are pretty clear: it's as if the filament is too soft and the EZStruder's hobbed gear is ...

geneb wrote:I gotta hand it to you, that's pretty cool.

Flight is futile; we know where you hang out.

I wonder if you could periodically add some G-code that would move the head all the way to the side and extrude for a while, hopefully clearing any developing blockage. It's pretty easy to do this for every layer, but that might not be necessary (and would end up with this humongous pile of plastic)...

I'd be really careful about this; if your thermistor (or its wiring) is flakey then it's very possible to totally roast your hotend and PEEK.