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The problem with Atmel is not the AVR Microcontroller, it's the Arduino 'stuff' that layers on top to make it accessible to script kiddies that makes it so painful to program for a software engineer type. The MEGA series all have a real JTAG interface with true hardware debugging facilities built in...

The FSR solution is inexpensive and surprisingly accurate. It just works and there is some momentum around it and the little board makes it dead simple to implement. Will there be better solutions in the future? I hope so, but FSRs aren't horrible here and now. What would a printer board need in or...

This may be something that someone has already though of, but why use the FSR for the sensors when you could mount sensitive strain gauges (like from a postage scale) on the delta arms and be able to sense with extreme precision the moment the nozzle contacts the bed? There's possibly a whole lot of...

That looks really amazing.
By the way, what drive system powers the handing gear retract? Does it use some kind of worm gear or something?

Jimustanguitar wrote: Rev 3 Heating traces have a varied spiral for more even heating. Added a hole for LED heat indicator. *Never shipped due to high resistance, better suited for a custom 24v build, on sale now!*

I have a Rev 3. It sounds like a rare collectors item. How much is it worth?

Would the cheapest to create method that gives the most dramatic results come from simply making a 3D printer with a big fat nozzle on it and a precise cutting tip that could drop down and retract? The process would be to deposit a heavy layer of plastic very rapidly and then use the cutting tip to ...

Hey Brian, That is very strange. although I've never used a light or heat lamp in my Hefty Trash Bag enclosure, I do tend to print most items enclosed now. I recently opened up a vent towards the top, because I was a little worried that it was getting a bit too toasty in there. I'd think that anyth...

Hi Eric, I was mistaken, the lamp was a 60W, so it's not quite that bad as you thought. Don't worry, I did not leave the printer unattended in this configuration. In fact, I got an extra smoke detector and mounted it on the ceiling directly above the printer, so even if I stepped out of the room for...

How did you tackle all those issues? I need to know what you did differently!

I'm with you on the "fun" part. I was not in a huge hurry to finish up because I was having a LOT of fun with the build.

I spent over 40 hours on mine, but I customized it a lot. I have multiple paint colors, custom wire looms, stripped power supply, wiring for future expansion, etc. It took 4-5 hours a day over a protracted period, as I have other projects going on at the same time. I also took extensive photos and v...

I have been printing some very large parts that reach the edges of the build volume and started to have layer separation with the ABS I was using, so I decided to hack an enclosure around the printer and I had much better results at first. I thought I could get it even better if I added a heat sourc...

The thing is that with the cheapskate plate, the slot for the toothed belt grip (I forget what the manual calls it) is right next to the screw holes, so when you mount the T-nut, the slot is so close that no matter what you do, at least one of the "prongs" on the T-nut will fall in the slo...

You shouls be able to salvage that piece. It's a little roughed up on that spot, but otherwise looks functional. That appears to be just cosmetic damage. You can just take the scuffed up part, and trim off any loose particles. then soak the exposed fibers with CA glue (super glue) to hold it togethe...

I'd fix the stock one and then use it to make all the bits would will need to mount a new one, then keep the stock one as a spare in case of an emergency.

PartDaddy can probably do that right now, but the build would have to be in a vertical position to fit the build volume. Then it would lay down flat and you add the drivetrain and junk to make it go zoom.

I cracked bed would most likely report as an open circuit not a short.

New resistors are cheap. You probably had an air bubble in the silicone that caused a hot spot and one of the resistors failed at that point. I had this happen and I reinstalled the new resistors but wrapped them with copper foil tape first, which really spreads the heat out and makes air bubbles a ...

Part Daddy Awesomeness

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FtQG733dC1s[/youtube]

I had an issue the other day where my F3 fuse popped while I was doing my PEEK fan print. Now that I replaced that fuse my thermistors (displayed on the LCD) are saying 'def'. When I first start up the printer it says the nozzle is around 20 degrees and the bed is around -22 degrees then switches o...

LEDs change brightness depending on the amount of current they receive. If you are putting a resistor in series with the LED and connecting them to the yellow 12V wire, then it's quite likely that when the heater switches on, it puts a load on the 12V and can drop it by some amount. If we say it dro...

You can always go into the LCD control panel and use the "Adjust Temps" setting to tweak it for the first layers and then back down for the remaining layers.

The heater is controlled by a dedicated power signal that is either ON or OFF. If you use the stock configuration with stock supply, then the power that makes the heater warm up is either 12V or 0V and nothing in between. This makes the circuit very reliable and low cost. The Red LED is connected to...

I could not even budge my nozzle until the hot end was up to temperature, taking it off, OR putting it on. What I did was heat it up to 230 and turn the power OFF, then QUICKLY unscrew/screw in the nozzle. Shutting the power off is necessary because the hot end might rotate and short out, or you may...

Wouldn't reducing the layer height be a better option? The thinner layer will cool faster, and will have less volume to shrink, and so you won't need to change anything else.