Welcome to the SeeMeCNC Community

If anyone else gets the same error, before the LCD reverts to def it briefly shows the current thermistor temps, mine were showing as 16ºc so just under the lower limit.

Some also use an external heat source to initially heat the thermistors above the error threshold. I did just that, I placed my hand on the centre of the bed just so it warmed from 16ºc to 19ºc and I set the hotend to autotune to heat that up, switched the printer off and on again and bingo we're b ...

Ah thanks! that makes sense, I have the printer setup in my loft, and its really cold up here right now, probably the coldest its been this autumn so far, I guess I'll need to explore making some kind of heated enclosure, damn!

Thanks! I'll try that if I can get my printer working again http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php?f=77&t=11069

As per the subject my printer is showing this error in Mattercontrol and the LCD displays:- NOZ: def BED: def I have metered the resistance across the 2 thermistor plugs at the Rambo board end and they both measure 145k ohms so I'd say they are ok. I know the hotend thermistor is ok and working ...

I printed a test calibration cube 2 days ago with no issues, now I've come to do another print today and am getting the same error and NOZ: def BED: def shown on the LCD display. I've unplugged both the thermistor plugs from the Rambo board and they both meter out at around 145k ohms so I'd say they ...

Yes it is, I've measured it again and its saying 19.8 across both sides, so am I right in saying its (19.8/20) x 269 where 269 is my current 'Diagonal rod length (mm)' eeprom setting? if so that comes out at 266.31, does that sound right?

Ok so I bought my Max v2 back in March 2014, took me about a month to build and I was happy to say it worked first time without any issues. I printed the fan shroud but thats where my progress stopped as spring arrived so my attention quickly turned to being outdoors :) For one reason and another ...

I made the exact same mistake, thanks to this thread I'm back up and running!

I think 3DR is right. Must be out of the box that way. Regarding Slic3r, I actually updated because the version packaged with Repetier Host Mac was outdated, and I was getting memory errors on a fairly high resolution mesh I was slicing. So I updated to the latest stable Slic3r from their site (1.0 ...

I get the same message on the LCD, it must be a change in the V2 printers.

Nylocke wrote:Sorry, I forgot to tell you to swap back to delta after. It's just a bug in Repetier so it uses the wrong value for the bed center.

Thanks, I'll try your suggestion and see if it centres it.

I printed my peek fan shroud in ABS as the manual says but the fan does not fit into it, I'm going to try calibrating the extruder to see if I can improve it any. Heres my first print...

I also found that calibrating my extruder steps/min significantly helped getting the PEEK shroud printed properly without any filing.

Is that the link in the build manual you followed to calibrate the extruder feed?

I'm having the same issue, these are my settings now...
and yet when I add the peek fan it puts it outside the bed...

Thanks both! OK I've done all the calibration stuff and got to the step of opening up the peek fan shroud STL file, problem is I'm not sure why its dropping on the outside of the bed... Screen shot 2014-04-29 at 22.09.23.png These are my printer settings... Screen shot 2014-04-29 at 22.15.12.png

Anyone?

Missing parts from SeeMeCNC turned up yesterday so managed to get the build complete and started the calibration stuff. When running the PID autotune I get an error following that(see attached image) is this anything to be concerned about?

Thanks Gene I think that is whats happened. Its no great drama though I'll come up with a solution. Just thinking how to improve the top bearing mounts as I can foresee issues with the nylock nuts slipping down over time, they seem a little under engineered. The 'Black Beast' under construction ...

Making progress with my printer build, I've come up against a minor issue. The manual says:- "Cut 21” off the 18ga, four conductor cable included with your kit and remove the black & red wires from it. These are the power wires that need to be soldered to the power pads on the bottom of the Onyx." ...

PartDaddy wrote:Sorry about that. We just hired a couple new people. I will put them through the "bottles of beer" test again, and see if they pass...

Arh I see! the one with only one finger must have packed that bag
Email response received, thanks PartDaddy

JohnStack wrote:If you know of another 3D Printer, the parts are also online.

There is a UK Distributor as well but they are not on the website.

(I've emailed John/Steve)

Thanks John.

Arh thanks, I didn't realise they were wired in parallel, I'll go with the 40W.

I'm going to do the hotend upgrade shown here:- http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xvXKt3xDt4E as part of my v2 build but I'm concerned if the stock Viotek PSU has enough juice to cope with the current draw? The 2 stock resistors are reading 7.6 ohms a piece so we'll be jumping from a total hotend power ...

I started to build my v2 the other day, was a bit disappointed to find 5 of the 6 u joint spring clip parts missing, someone obviously can't count at SeeMeCNC :) I'll have to endure extra shipping time to the UK too so this will delay the build which is a pity. u-joints.jpg As advised in the manual ...