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You guys nailed it. Those fans were cooling the nozzle that much. They were blowing against each other. Once I removed one, the air had somewhere to go and its doing better.

Now at 176 instead of where it should be at 190. But its an improvement over the 144 I did have.

But they are layer fans... They aren't blowing right on the hot end so shouldnt it be fine?

Hi Guys, I just added 2 more of the 30mm layer fans for a total of 3. Naturally they turn on after the first 2 layers are printed but once they turn on, the tempature of the hot end starts to dive. It have to stop the print because it just keeps cooling down. Last time it got down to 140 before I st...

Howdy Doc,

Just thought I'd chime in to say hey to a close neighbor. I'm down in Wilmington and finished my Rostock Max v2 recently. Really enjoyed the build and printing rocks.

This is a great forum, many ready to help if we can.

tinyhead,

Forgot to answer your question about the arms. I think I will use some carbon fiber arms. Then again, I have aluminum already. Both are arrows. I am big into bowhunting and I will cringe a little using good arrows for arms.

Man! Thank you for mentioning that. I will keep that gap in mind since mine wont be using socket head screws. One thing that does puzzle me is the cheapskate mount. Xnaron's design is for the v1 cheapskates correct? My V2 cheapskate appears to have a different design. Right off the bat, the mount on...

Actually it was Cambo that found them. Here's a link

http://deltaprintr.com/shop/hardware/10 ... eel-balls/

I think 10mm will work just fine. I may have to scale up the rod-ends a tiny amount but I don't think so. It is really close to the 3/8 already.

Hi Guys, I have been doing a lot of reading about the pros and cons of using the magnetic arms vs the stock Rostock arms. First, let me say that I know the MAX v2 has great arms already and those arms are leaps and bounds better than the v1 arms, and for the most part, I am pretty happy with the pri...

Thanks for the link cambo!

Ordered 12 and get this... shipping was only .34 cents! Crazy.

Well Captain,

Appreciate you giving the sanding a try for us. Thought it was a good idea. I think you're right about sandblasting, don't bother.

This is strange, I agree with Dan. It sounds like your Y is not moving enough. Perhaps moving less steps. And you said the belt appears in good condition? I would think this would happen if the belt was slipping off the stepper gear or it's jumping over teeth on the belt. Could the gear on the stepp...

Hi, I am a little confused as to your leveling of the bed. Where did you put long set screws? Are you referring to the end-stop screws at the top? Do you have an example print you could show us? If there is no play / wobble in your skates and they glide fine on the track, and your belt tension is no...

Tinyhead,

I like the cone shape spool holder, thats a great idea as well.

Guanu,

If you tried it and it didn't work out, I guess I'll pass on the idea. I figured one of you fellas had tried it. Just makes since for the surface being printed on to have some tooth to it.

I got some Aqua Net from CVS and am trying that tonight.

I think I am going to try it this weekend as well.

IF it doesn't work, no big deal, I'll just flip the plate back over to the smooth side. Might be nice to have 1 side smooth, 1 side sanded for different materials.

Great mod Captain...

I know what you mean about hating the sound of sudden clinks or jumps of that plastic spool. It's made me jump up to check on prints many times.

Neat idea.

Captain,

Glad you have some scrap you can try. Just be safe when it comes to dust. Wear something that will protect you.

Guys, I have been thinking about ways to increase adhesion and I was wondering if anyone out there has sanded the top glass bed? It comes clean and smooth, but it seems to me that if sanded with the right grit, it would greatly increase adhesion with tiny amount of surface abrasion. It doesn't take ...

Also, a quick side note.

I find it easy to feed and extract the old filament when the Z=0 (the hotend is at print level, not home)

This straightens the bowden tube somewhat which helps the new or old filament to feed easier.

Yeah, I think unhooking the bowden tube is just extra hassle that's unneeded. For me, (now that the red lever is working properly) the easiest way is to change filament is.... 1) Heat hot end to temp 2) Use retract button 100mm twice. 3) Push red lever and pull the filament up and out. I have notice...

You were right, it was jammed. Found some broken off plastic inside. Don't know how it got there, but it was jamming the lever when pressed. Now its cleared out, filament is coming out just fine.

Thanks for your help diagnosing the problem.

Yeah, I am pretty sure something is wrong with the red lever now. I heat the nozzle up to 190, retract 100mm, 100mm more till I see all of the plastic pulling up through the tube and once I know its free from the hotend, I press the lever down. It goes down with normal spring pressure I assume, and ...

Aarggg.. I missed the Early Bird.. Dang it.

I have been heating the plastic up to the extrusion temp and then using the retract button, but when its free of the hotend, and I depress the red lever, I still get nothing when I pull on it. Thats why I have been using retract all the way... I wonder if something is wrong with my red lever. Apprec...

Hey guys, I am probably NOT doing this the right way, but when I change filament, in Reptetier manual control, I am using the retract button set to 100mm. After which... i hit the button again, and again, and... you get the idea. Until the filament has popped out of the ezstruder above the red lever...