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This sounds very similar to what happened to me. The RAMBO was detected and assigned a USB port, I could connect with repetier host, but not issue any commands. I could run jobs off the sdcard, but not do anything via USB. I also could not reprogram the arduino firmware. I could see everything ...

Follow the build instructions, you will eventually print your two fan shrouds in ABS. Then you can wire them up. I'd recommend getting some quick connectors rather than solder them. I've had my hot end off at least a dozen times in the past couple of months.

Very nice, thank you. What's the best orientation to print? And support is required?

That looks pretty nice. At some point, I'd like to upgrade to dual (probably sooner than later). Any chance you can make a mirrored version? One with the EZStruder standoffs on the opposite side... Might be useful to quite a few folks. Some of us (guilty) put the top panel on backwards and have no ...

Yeah, it's really tight, but I prefer that. Having to scrape away a bit of plastic to form a really nice, tight coupling is a lot better problem than the inverse. Thanks for the mount, the new design is even better! I'm about to print another for a guy at work who's currently building a Max V2. He ...

Geesh, I was hoping someone would have solved this before mine comes from Filastruder. I got a shipping notice Friday. It is solved. if You still want to use the existing layer fan duct, just print the lower part of the model with it cut shorter. That's what I'm going to do sometime later today ...

Since I actually have it printed and mounted I can tell you it will NOT work withe stock layer fan duct. The duct sits too low compared to the print head and will run into the model. The E3D print nozzle is sitting about ten mm higher than the stock one did. This is actually good from one ...

I printed this off for my E3D V6, which I just mounted last night. I worried about it sliding as well and think it would be better if the lower piece was the same thickness as the groove on the head. However, both the top and bottom were a tight fit... so tight I had to shave it a bit with a blade ...

And here is a success... now I'm really baffled. G92 E0 shows up in the log, yet I removed it from the gcode. 20:51:55.027 : N1695 G1 X-11.147 Y-9.658 E88.75403 F14400 *43 20:51:55.106 : N1696 G1 X-11.084 Y-10.318 E88.59658 F14400 *29 20:51:55.278 : N1697 G1 X-10.798 Y-10.807 E88.46198 F14400 *23 20 ...

Ha, I work with abandonware all the time. Company pays someone to write something, project is successful, all the developers move on, six years later they ask me to reverse engineer it. I'm in the middle of reverse engineering some avionics equipment, writing requirements documentation (there was ...

Thanks for the advice. G28 X0 is the slic3r default and I've seen it from the output from a few other slicers. Seems to send it home just like plain old G28. The firmware from seemecnc probably ignores the extra parameters, I know if I modified the firmware, that's what I'd do. I do have commands ...

Let me clarify further, the ONLY spot I have to remove G92 E0 is the end of the file, it causes no problems at the beginning or between layers.

I know to use absolute positioning with this printer/firmware. I've tried KISSlicer, Cura and multiple versions of Slic3r, all have this problem. Here is the gcode from v1.0.1 Slic3r. This is the very end of the file. G1 F3600.000 E3.20873 G1 Z81.350 F18000.000 G92 E0 M107 M104 S0 ; turn off ...

OK, so I've got a seriously bizarre one for you guys. This is my first post on the forums, but I've been lurking for a couple months now. Completed my rostock max v2 build about a month ago now and have been really happy with it so far. But all of a sudden, it's got a very strange bug. You're going ...