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So I did a little testing after work during the week and here is my conclusion (assumptions), at least for me: Bed and Nozzle both on: This was what I was most interested in. I was unsure of the method due to the fact that heat causes things to expand. What I found that because the hot build plate i...

When manually calibrating my Rostock Max V2 I would bring the hotend and bed up to temp before setting the Z height. Should I do the same when autocalibrating the Artemis, or should I calibrate at room temperature with the hotend and bed turned off?

Update: I decided on getting the Artemis and will be using it without any upgrades. Before the Artemis announcement, I originally had planned to buy and upgrade the v3 to essentially what the Artemis already comes with. I returned most of the parts I already bought but will be keeping some (e3d v6 ...

Below is what I plan on getting so far. See the attachment for more info: Rostock MAX v3 Kit UltiBots FSR Kit Trick Laser FSR Plate Trick Laser Heat Spreader E3D V6 All-Metal HotEnd E3D PT100 Sensor DuetWifi w/PT100 Board Regarding stepper motors, what steppers would work the best for me? Will the s...

I am going to get a second printer (Rostock Max v3) and completely upgrade/rebuild my Rostock Max V2. If I already have a Raspberry Pi 3 can I get the base V3 kit or are there more pieces I would need? I use Simplify3D for my slicer, will I be able to send the gcode from S3D to octoprint or astropri...

I recently upgraded my Rostock Max v2's e3d v6 thermistor from the old screw in m3 thermistor to the newer block and sock upgrade kit with the thermistor cartridge. After installing it and configuring it with the Repetier 092 my screen was jumbled and I could not get it displaying properly and also ...

Success! I bought a replacement mosfet and soldered it on today. The printer seems to be working just fine and I am currently preparing to print some test prints! Thanks for everyone's help.

teoman wrote:Oh dear. You may have busted your mossfett.

Yes! The mosfet directly under the terminal is burning up. Is it worth soldering on a replacement mosfet or is this board most likely toast?

Ok, So after wiring everything back up the heated bed is now heating however there is a new issue. The heated bed seems to turn on as soon as I turn the printer on. The bed starts heating and the RAMBo LED for the heated bed is on. I think the problem is caused by the capacitor next to the heated be...

I stopped by All Electronics and bought a couple of fuses. I will reconnect everything when I have the time and hopefully shouldn't run into any problems, but will post back if I do. Thanks, for all the help!

Ok, so I just finished soldering on two terminal connectors in place of the single terminal block. Fixed RAMBo.jpg This should hopefully make it easier to replace only certain terminals instead of the whole block. Now I just have to get a 15A blade fuse, and have this available locally: http://www.a...

So after a year of no issues I have finally had a possibly very expensive mishap. As I was preheating my heated bed (PN 58742 R2) I started to smell a very unsettling burning smell coming from my printer. I opened up the front to inspect the RAMBo for the cause and found the root of the problem as s...

Just use a FLIR camera and don't bother with the lights. Yeah, you are probably right. Although a DIY Infrared lighting system sounds nice, I may as well buy a night vision IP Camera and get way better quality video than the MatterControl Touch. Does anyone recommend a particular IP Camera. Optiona...

I want to illuminate my printer using Infrared LEDS like the ones used to illuminate Night-Vision security cameras. The goal is to illuminate my printer so my MatterControl Touch can see the print without any "human visible light" I am thinking of the following option: Buying a LED ring fr...

I have a Rostock Max v2 with a RAMBo that was just repaired by Ultimachine. During calibration the printer decided to randomly shut off and after about a minute it would turn back on as the power switch was still in the on position. I thought it may be caused by the Corsair CX750 Power Supply overhe...

I was just using the stranded copper wire straight from my CX750 Power Supply. And after many hours of diagnosing I think I found the problem. The heated bed wires on the power block must have shorted and heated up the positive pin enough to fry it. I have attached some photos, so If you see anythin...

I heat my PLA prints up with a Heat Gun and the marks magically disappear!

I have been having some weird issues with my Rostock Max v2 heated bed. What happens is that the 2 bundles of 4 wires on the power terminal block seem to always be coming loose or not making a connection. After fiddling around with these wires the bed heats back up. This only affects the heated bed ...

Awesome. What type of stuff are you rendering with those 10 mac minis? That is an awesome little swarm you've got going. I work with my fathers company Slide Marketing ( http://www.slidemkt.com ) and create a lot of the art and other graphics for Paul Mitchell Sports ( https://www.paulmitchell.com/...

Creator wrote:Very neat!
Is the Astrosyn dampers necessary in you opinion? Where did you buy the mic-6?

The Astrosyn dampers cut down on the noise level a lot in my opinion. I got the Mic-6 precision cut at Industrial Metal Supply in Sun Valley, CA.
Their website is http://www.industrialmetalsupply.com

I got my Rostock Max v2 at Maker Faire Bay Area 2014 and never actually got around to sharing my setup, so here are some photos featuring my printer in all its glory: DSC_0111.jpg DSC_0100.jpg DSC_0109.jpg DSC_0106.jpg DSC_0089.jpg DSC_0105.jpg DSC_0095.jpg DSC_0097.jpg DSC_0092.jpg DSC_0091.jpg

I had a terrible time with Shaxon ABS. Read about my experience in this post: http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php?f=62&t=6449

Well I have been having a terrible time lately with Shaxon brand abs. It prints fine on some prints but 90% of the time the print fails. I decided to make abs juice to help with the warping problems, so I took 3 feet of 1.75mm abs and put it in 4oz of acetone. Long story short, after a while there w...

I've moved my printer into a different room and am going to re calibrate everything and retry the print also. Im starting to think that using multiple slicers and computers may have done something to the eeprom and resetting everything to default and calibrating will confirm if that is the problem o...

Nope, I stlill am having problems.