Welcome to the SeeMeCNC Community

[img]http://i.imgur.com/RmgzDrfl.jpg[/img]

Image says it best. Suggestions?

Thanks John! I tell everyone how great these machines are. The vertical build volume and extendability is killer for prosthetics.

Edit: spelling

Hey Everyone, I'm Jeff. We use Rostock Max v2s to print prosthetics. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pNvjOeZO9kg" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; We've sold a bunch of them which is really cool! We are exhibiting at a conference in San Antonio in October and I would LOVE to h...

I have a fuse on my rambo board that is loose (the fuse by the LCD connector - it's either F2 or F3). part of the metal contacts on one side came off while being replaced one time. When the printer is moving about it can come lose and then the printer dies obviously. What is a good and safe way to s...

Printing with Slic3r seemed to help the problem (although it introduced others). I vastly prefer Cura for surface finish. anyone have experience with Cura and what might cause this or what to tinker with?

havent tested that yet! good question though - i will try that

thank you also for the safety tip! I took apart the power supply - and well I didn't see any issues - I concluded that it was fried since it wasnt delivering any power. thanks for the help!

it feels like 1 per layer - and often times they will "stack up" and be at the same place

so i doubt it's that :/

Not sure how else to describe this. I am getting pitting on the surface of the print. The weird thing is that I printed this with 0 retraction! (because I thought the issue was retraction). I'm using Cura to slice. any ideas?

[img]http://i.imgur.com/aOIzocPl.jpg[/img]

Hmmm no dice. Unplugged PSU from Rambo, power switch is ok. But I turn on the printer and I nothing happens in the power supply. I expect I should at least hear a fan spinning?

I have about a year old rostock max v2 with the viotek 450W power supply. It's been working great, but went to turn it on today and nothing happens. I can't hear any fans running. How can I diagnose this issue? thanks! (i have a multimeter)

So when I try to heat up my hot end - it heats up soooooo slow. I have another Max v2 that heats up very quickly. I measured the voltage across the hot end on the Rambo - and it shows up at .82. On my other max it's over 10. [img]http://i.imgur.com/dAELsnc.jpg?1[/img] I checked all the splicing from...

I'm calibrating the printer, and for the Z tower calibration, I can no longer raise the screw anymore though the hot end is not yet low enough. Additionally, I can no longer tighten the screw for the Y tower calibration, though I need to raise the hot end for that one. Any thoughts as to how to over...

OK - so voltage for hot end is really low (~.8). I replaced the fuses (10A), but no effect. LED2 is flashing as well. Does this mean a problem with the RAMBo?

Bed is at ~10.5V and hot end is at .8V

I wanted to put this in another post since it's probably a separate problem, but I've got issues with an E3D-v6 extruder on a rostock heating very slowly (2C/min) that seems to be related to the firmware. I checked all connections - no shorts, and the extruder was definitely heating, just very slowl...

Hey all, So I'm having a strange problem with a couple of rostock max v2s I just set up. I built the two printers in parallel, so they are set up similarly. In the first printer, once it was completed, it seemed to be working fine. Both the extruder and the bed were working and the temperature readi...

So I've got an issue - the hot end is spontaneously cooling. It might get through a few layers and then it will start dragging the plastic. And it's only the hot end that cools down. In repetier, both the bed and the hot end are still turned on, but the temperature for just the hot end drops. Earlie...

yea, that's definitely cool and would work, but I'm looking for something that works more "out of the box"

no love for dual hot end printers huh?

I'm in the market for a dual (or triple/quadruple) hot end 3d printer. Ideally it would be awesome stock with heated bed, all metal hot ends, etc. Anyone have any recommendations? thanks!

half of the thermistor wire had completely sheared off. strange. anyways - i replaced it with a backup i had and all seems good to go

A print came loose off the bed and got all messy in my e3d hot end. I printed another print after just fine. Now the machine has cooled down but the thermistor says the hot end is hovering around 212c when it is obviously cold (around 33c). Thoughts on how to fix this?

I was wondering how this would work - XTC on PET and now I have my answer

that's seems to have been it! thanks guys! that would have been really hard to figure out =)