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I also use this printer line. Get it off Amazon from Maxpower. Works amazing, but is very wet. Standard procedure for drying hydroscopic items should be used. (Bake in an oven for a very long time) It comes on a nice big spool and is not tangled. Be careful about unwinding, the sides of the spool ar...

I also use this printer line. Get it off Amazon from Maxpower. Works amazing, but is very wet. Standard procedure for drying hydroscopic items should be used. (Bake in an oven for a very long time) It comes on a nice big spool and is not tangled. Be careful about unwinding, the sides of the spool ar...

not sure if this is still a project for you, but I'd use nylon, 100% fill printed at very high temps and then epoxy seal it. be warned tho, epoxies are brittle and de-cures with heat so it could crack if deflected and it will soften as the temp rises. doesn't mean it will, but i would test first. FW...

i agree also. printing doesnt end with PLA and ABS at sedate paces. i love nylon and nylon that i've used (lots of bridge, some 618 and trimmer line) all prints much better in the 270c range than it does 230-250c on the stock hot end. the layer bonding of nylons at 270 is just wow. it also bares in ...

ya, to really drive it home tho. if anyone *really* wants to get ABS to stick, lay down some kapton tape on your bed. the grip is tenacious.

ya that's what i use. honestly i would advise learning the bed heat & how much you can print without warping. print yourself a seriously large raft & print so you can see at what point warping really becomes an issue. on big footprint ABS or nylon prints the corners can still come loose. eve...

i solved mine by moving my machine into a spare bathroom's shower. just put a mat down for it to sit on & keep the tub/shower curtain's drawn.

get you some APC MR's.

slow fly props suck

never had a problem with ABS. i just use the purple elmer's glue sticks like it says in the manual cut to 80-90c & then drop the temp after the first few layers. every once and awhile i just toss the build plate in the dish washer; comes out perfectly clean! (PVA doesnt get on with water) when a...

So I bought some PCTPE early on from Taulman when it wasn't available anywhere else (and a spool of bridge while I was at it). Well I screwed up & forgot shipping so Thomas got in touch with me right when I was getting rather busy personally so I accidentally forgot to take care of it. Fast forw...

no. issues with: leeching of chemicals chemical breakdown and frankly, the layering provides lots of surface area for bacteria now on the other hand, taulman is coming out with FDA approved 680 series nylon soon! that's fda approved... you know... before you print it, but that's as good as well ever...

Everything I can find is tight, I loctited them down during the build with perminent. Belts are are snug & in good shape (I can't make them skip a tooth by pulling them quickly), likewise all the skates seem to have the same tension as far as I can tell. Ya I've had some prints come out fantasti...

it doesnt grab the prints; for reasons i dont understand it seemingly arbitrarily just moves the prints over at the start of the erroring layer. oddly, if i enable the spiral vase setting in matter control it wont do it. its not grabbing / the belts are not having teeth jumped. obviously a firmware ...

yes they are set, belts have good tension, the towers are as square as i can make them & snug. bed, head, everything that can be that i can think of physically is ok.

still happening :/

Rostock Max v2. After several layers, ultimately at some point during all my prints the print head moves off to a side & tries printing items offset. I have no idea why. :( I've cleared & reflashed firmware Checked the physical setup (Towers, belts, hot end, heat bed level & down snug) t...