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The SE300 has a touch probe built into the PCB that is required for auto-calibration. You could use a Duet Smart Effector and an E3D v6 if you wanted to, but the SE300 is basically a plug & play module if you also get the wiring whip kit from SeeMeCNC. The 713Maker effector components came into exis...

You're welcome!

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If it was ME, I'd do the upgrades. The SE300 will allow you to print nylon without any issue. The stock EZRStruder prints TPU without a problem - it's my understanding that the wiring boots that SeeMeCNC makes for the SE300 are printed on an Artemis using a SainSmart TPU filament.

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You might want to check for an M84 code in the end-gcode in Cura. It turns the motors off after a print is done and the effector could sag into your print.

Homing on startup is good practice.

Welcome to the zoo!

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Even if SeeMeCNC provided the file, it would still need to be sliced. The issue screams of "mis-configured slicer".

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Welcome to the zoo!

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That's a very rare beast! I'm told only around 30 exist. I would email [email protected] at this point - I suspect they can help more than I can at this point.

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The setup looks ok to me. I would clear your eeprom again and then reload the firmware. If the pulley you have is one of the old machined ones, it does have 15 teeth and not 20. BTW, is your printer made from Acrylic?

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Try changing it to 15 and see how it works.

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The G28 causes it to home. Just remove the M84.

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Are you not setting the z-zero point through the control panel on the printer?

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Nope, it's just a like in the end gcode config in Cura. Edit the Cura end-gcode config to remove it. Most of the time the M84 isn't an issue, but for some especially well-tuned machines, it will result in the effector platform slowly sliding to the bottom. The effector platform weight overcomes the ...

For a stock v1, the only firmware you really should need is the 091 listed above. You'll also want the 1.6.0 version of the IDE.
Make sure you run the clear_eeprom program before you upload the firmware. There might be a value in there that's catching you.

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Rostock Max v2 would be closest - you may have to tweak one of the axes even then. Sorry, it's been too many years since I've worked with a stock V1. The guide you listed is the one you want if you've got an HE280. If it's in your budget, I'd jump to an SE300 and a Duet3D controller. You can get the...

Check to make sure there's not an M84 command in your end-gcode. M84 turns the steppers off and that can cause the hot end to slowly lower to the bottom of the printer.

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That older firmware may work ok with the newer compiler. The "Firmware-master" is so large that if compiled with something after 1.6.0, it can become unstable and do weird things. The suspicion is that something in the compiler itself changed with 1.6.1+. There's no compelling reason to upgrade to t...

Your power supply is toast. At full load, a "low" reading would be 11.9v. This is causing your heating & extruding problems. Your homing issue is due to the Y axis needing to be inverted in the firmware. You need to tweak the spot in Configuration.h where it lists the model of printer you've got - t...

You may have a power supply problem or one of the heating resistors has been cooked. The power supply should read 12V when you're heating both the bed and the hot end.

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Keep in mind that Cura is purpose-built for the task it does and it's very, very, very, good at what it does. The slicer in F360 is a bag hung on the side as a "feature". Yeah, it'll probably get the job done, but not nearly as well as a dedicated, purpose-built slicer. If you don't like Cura, there...

You'd be much better off using Cura I think.

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You might want to make a backup copy of the SD card contents, wipe it, and then reload it from the SeeMeCNC Artemis git repo.

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You might want to bump the temp up 5C and see how it goes. The skipping should lessen - keep bumping 2C at a time after that and see how it goes.

Test cubes are great for this kind of testing.

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dc42 to the rescue! Thanks!

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You're quite welcome! I'm happy to help. Gotta keep those nasty bed-flinging cartesianistas at bay. ;) Typically the fuse will blow if the fan attached to the heat sink on the hot end isn't running. The orange wire is for the layer fans. I don't know if it shorting against something else could have ...

Have you determined that the thermal fuse is bad? As for doing mods to skip the fuse, I would contact support about that. ([email protected])

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