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I'm just starting with the duet, and have never used override.g

Have you tried changing the values for the G31 to adjust the assumed probe distance from the bed? I guess it'd need to be Z0 for FSRs?

G31 X0 Y0 Z1.20 P500 ; Set the zprobe height and threshold (put your own values here)

The dinosaurs checked the mailbox today and found a present from New Zealand! The box was a little bit battered from the trip, but everything inside looked fine. [img]http://gchristopher.net/3dprinting/stega_nimble.jpg[/img] Next up will be an adapter for the 713maker mount and then testing it out. ...

I just got a shipping notification for a Nimble!

Thanks! I'm really happy with the Duet so far. Though I suspect there's a lot more to learn about configuring it. Stega Saurus will be working on reading the docs some more. I'm glad the Duet connector kit included wire ferrules for the screw terminals. (3D printing has taught me to hate small screw...

Wow! What started as "let's try out the 713Maker effector as a platform for upgrades", through mishaps and scope creep, turned into an incredibly long haul that included: - Switching to a 713Maker aluminum effector platform. - Upgrading to a Duet Wifi after static discharge (to the plastic...

Thanks! That's good to know that they're not corrosion resistant.

We're pretty sure the RAMBo is partially dead. A static discharge to the outer plastic front case (!!!) of the LCD killed (at least) the LCD. After replacing the LCD, the RAMBo still works fine to control the printer but no longer responds to attempts to reprogram the firmware or re-flash the bootlo...

Okay. I was just starting to get worried, since the last email said "We expect it to be a matter of days, not weeks" and since then they've been quiet and Zesty_Lykle hasn't been on the forums this month.

I hope it's going okay for them!

I wonder how it's going for the Nimble? I got an email on March 28 describing a problem with the gears.

Has anyone else heard from Brian and Lykle?

I ran 2 E3Ds side-by side (chosen over the chimera purely because the chimera wasn't out yet) to print using dissolvable filament. It worked fine, with a small amount of fiddling with relative heights and firmware. One trick I found for getting the heads perfectly level was to put several layers of ...

I've run a lot of filament through a 0.8 mm nozzle with an E3D volcano and EZStruder on a Rostock V2. I didn't get any impression that with that setup, I was close to any limits. The effective speedup is much more than 4x faster. More in the 8x range. For a rough preview, try slicing with hypothetic...

I'm pretty sure I need to flash the bootloader, but since I don't have an AVR programmer, I'm worried about bricking the otherwise functional RAMBo trying to program it using another Arduino.

Well, I'm getting "stk500v2_getsync(): timeout communicating with programmer" when trying to reprogram a RAMBo that previously worked. Given that the LCD was damaged by static discharge, I'm seriously considering not even trying to reload the bootloader via ICSP. The printer still runs fin...

If you disconnect the bed and the RAMBo still runs, and you can measure a good 12V signal across the bed terminals, then there might be a good chance the FET and related circuitry are okay? That might make it worthwhile to rework the connection somehow. I decided that putting 10A through those screw...

I was able to print HIPS with ABS using two E3D V6's undermounted side by side . An E3D chimera would have been nicer. Since both filaments have a similar temperature range, a cyclops would have been an option. I haven't tried many multifilament combinations, but I've read mutual adhesion is an issu...

Haha, here you go: [img]http://gchristopher.net/3dprinting/upvsdown.jpg[/img] In case it's hard to see, here's a closer view. [img]http://gchristopher.net/3dprinting/upvsdowndetail.jpg[/img] The new LCD works just fine, though, and apparently it's very difficult to damage them by plugging them in in...

I also found that the switching speed of the RAMBO to the heated bed is very fast, about 2 kilohertz. The Crydom just barely reaches this speed even though the rated frequency is 0.9 kilohertz. It works for me using the stock RAMBO firmware, but it may not work well on other brands of SSRs. I agree...

Graaaaaaggggrrrrhhhhgghhhhh! (Actually things are fine.) The LCD controller has polarized headers for the connector cables that are SOLDERED IN THE OPPOSITE ORIENTATION as the originally provided LCD controller! So now I know from firsthand experience that plugging the cables in rotated 180 degrees ...

(I can't help with real electrical issues, but,) there is a firmware setting in Repetier for the PWM frequency that might help. 15hz is the slowest before you have to switch to bang-bang control. I notice that the cheap ebay/amazon SSRs don't even have a rated frequency listed.

I never got great results with PEI/ABS at 90C bed temp, but it's fantastic at 110C. That was a big driver for the 24V upgrade. Prints stick beautifully and pop off pretty easily after it drops to ~80C or lower, then heat it back up for the next one. The main issue is that makes an even bigger temper...

Thanks! It's still winter outside and the dinos are not straying far from the warm printer.

And yeah, there's been tons of static discharges on and near the printer. I guess this was just the unlucky one, especially given that it wasn't even while messing with wiring!

Sad, sad dinosaurs. But they STILL have the credit card, so one of them is probably ordering from seemecnc.com as I write this...

After a static discharge to the plastic front casing of the RAMBo controller LCD, it's pretty clearly fried. [img]http://gchristopher.net/3dprinting/dead_lcd.jpg[/img] The RAMBo seems to be fine running the printer, so at least it's a straightforward component replacement. (Unless there's some dedic...

Joining late. Has the printer geometry changed with the new trucks? I know that when I switched from the old V2 cheapskates to the new injection-molded ones, that changed my horizontal radius. How are things looking for basic calibration prints? I've tried using printed screw-based belt tensioners, ...

I've switched from KISSlicer to the Prusa Slic3r and my problems with perimeters meeting curved walls has pretty much vanished. I guess that isolates that problem to the slicing software!

I don't have any other significant observations.