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Ok...so it MAY be my connector between the hot end and the power source (I added a quick disconnect to easily remove the hot end and extruder from machine). I added a few more tie down zip cords around the connector and is working for now. Another weird thing is that after the first layer....the mac...

Hey guys, I have a problem with my hotend and have been racking my mind as to what could be the problem. I start by turning on the heated bed. When its close to 75 degrees, I then start heating the hot end.....nothing happens on the temperature curve!! The lights on the Rambo board turn on and I hav...

Didn't do that....was too scared to melt things and have a bigger problem. The little slice in the tube seems to have worked for now. Not pretty but things are printing and that's all that matters in the end. Thanks guys for your suggestions....Jake

I think I might just slice an opening on the "underside" of the tube, remove the stubborn piece and carry on for now. Can't see any other way.....just need to be careful when I prime the tube the first time. Wish me luck.

Hey all....I had some ABS creep up into my Bowden tube. I didn't notice and a couple of days later I tried a print. The extruded couldn't push it into the hot end and the extruder ended up eating through the filament. I removed both PTF connections and tried to remove the filament by hand....long st...

Such a novice mistake. The Z ends top wires, or at least one, had been severed due to bump in the road.....literally. I'm currently tightening/inspecting all my screws, wires, measurements, etc. I did not assemble this machine....my first was with Barnett. I really should have inspected eavrything f...

So I G28 and all axis went north besides the Z axis. Before my road trip, all axis worked. Now all head up beside the Z axis. The M119 command show the Z axis with an H in the command line........if it worked before on G28...what is the problem now?? Not able to get this roxmax going yet...so frustr...

what does g28 do? Moves the other two axis up......Z remains in the same position?!?!? I haven't uploaded the past owners firmware yet but will try to find time to do tonight. Somehow I think this will clear things up. Especially since my EEPROM setting don't exist when the I scroll down the printe...

Ok..so I built a perfect functioning fourth model of the indigo campaign and now I have a rescue R stock. This is what happens when I toggle the axis: (keep in mind I just got the firmware,but have not uploaded it yet): Hit button for -10 x axis....X goes up,Y goes down Hit button for -10 Y axis.......

FYI...
Other wires(non spliced):
B, g,blue,r ///: B, g, blue, r // B, g, white, red...These wires were sliced. Go af634 them....sorry for your time......

Just a friendly "second voice" request for help. Z motor goes with general movements (only down) but never heads up. I assume the "up" wire is loose. Can anyone tell me which wire needs examinination..?!?! Plus I have a blinking orange LED blinking below heated bed contacts and h...

The orientation of the idler bracket is only important when you're first doing the assembly. Check out the draft of the 2nd edition to see how I did the install there. Makes it a lot easier than eyeballing all six of them. g. Yeah.....we didn't even have your FIRST manual when building it. It's fun...

Too funny......love it

So I'm printing along fine and on my third print of the day. I come back in to the room to check on it and the z carriage isn't moving. I abort the job, try a G28 and z does not move. Tried testing the board and wires and the problem seems to be the motor. I was hoping maybe the pulley was slipping...

Original thread, I believe:

http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php ... 7951#p7951

barnett wrote:To make up for my less than perfect pyramid, I submit this video entry. Please forgive my novice (and perhaps cheesy) video skills! Also I apologize for it being 6 min long.

It's on you tube here.

barnett

Any new videos??? That was pretty cool.....

Pros: you can stick a rod or screwdriver in there for leverage to remove the nozzle. Cons: the mass imbalance because one side of the hot end is heavier than the other creates microscopic ripples in the extruded plastic. This results in imperceptible variations in surface quality of the print. Thes...

What are people doing with the other empty hole??? Does it need to be filled? Or do you just leave it open....?? Pros...cons...

Remember not to move the cheapskates around TOO much by hand....the steppers could create a charge to the board. Just an FYI.....

If they can.....they will.......be patient.....but I do hope they can change things..

The guys at SeeMe CNC *might* replace them for you.......

Yet...no one is touching this with a ten foot pole......?!??!? Paranoid or not......this sh@t is alive and real now a days.....

Anyone else just getting a bad vibe about multiple posts, in various threads, about AR-15 parts and not about the printer calibrations or the printer itself....???!?!!?! Just saying.....

Constructive Feedback: "Apparently the folks at SeeMeCNC have update the Rostock MAX kit again. The manual does not yet reflect this. The new kits have the hot ends pre-assembled wit the PTFE tubing already installed." Not Constructive Feedback: "this another part where the manual is...

Which makes me think this is the you-tuber...again....