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Yeah ive thought about the kossel but i didnt realize you could scale it down. I live in a small shitty apartment otherwise i would just keep building printers.

I like it! That totally would be an awesome start and i like that the top and bottom are printed. Just out of curiosity how come you went with a belt system instead of linear track rails or wire?

Tagged, I'm building this mofo.

http://www.onshape.com I've been messing around with it hoping to get away from tinkercad. Just wondering what other people here thought of it. I like that i can use it on mac or windows and i can work on parts no matter where i am. Thats what i like about tinkercad. I can start a part at work and ...

Just a small little model I made to keep the filament from rubbing against the melamine and causing friction from a sharp angle. I printed it in ninjaflex and it fits into the hole and holds a piece of bowden tubing. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:993212 I also did a mashup of two other spool arms ...

I love my rostock max v2 but it's too big and costs to much to build for a family member. I would prefer to source parts myself even if this is the same or more expensive than a kit. I would love to be able to build a delta and copy the tiko's more inventive aspects and size. I think this would be a ...

do you have a mount you can share for the dial? i got one but haven't had a chance to mount it and test it out.

should work with anything that has auto bed leveling. Is there a guide for setting up auto bed leveling in repetier with a delta? I found this http://www.repetier.com/documentation/repetier-firmware/z-probing/ but it says you need .92 and i haven't seen anyone with that on here. It would be nice if ...

Is anyone using this? https://miscsolutions.wordpress.com/mini-height-sensor-board/ http://www.filastruder.com/collections/e3d-spare-parts-and-accessories/products/mini-differential-ir-height-sensor Wondering if it will work with the RAMBO. I've seen a couple other auto calibration setups on here ...

Unspooling it manually did fix the issue, which was why i went down this path in the first place. I did actually get it printing ninjaflex successfully for a few prints after upgrading to direct extruder. http://imgur.com/FQTfNnX I did create a new spool and it totally does reduce the friction it ...

So i ended up making something by combining two different spool holders. I took this and made one small modification so the ballbearing sit on an aluminum bar 5mmx5mm http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:408288 Then i copied the half of this http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:617857 that latches onto the ...

thanks captain! I'll keep looking to see what is out there. I'm gonna try making one with some ball bearings i've seen or maybe modify some of the rounded replacement arms. I just hope its enough to fix the issue.

Wow! If you're that dedicated that you want to build some kind of arduino solution, go for it. :) On the other hand, I feel like it would be a lot easier to just print a new low-friction spool arm. I'm sure there are designs with bearings available, or you could come up with your own. I think that ...

I'm having some issues with filament mainly ninjaflex being slowed down because of the force it takes to pull from the spool. If I manually keep the filament slack I have no issues at all and the prints come out great. I've seen only one solution so far where someone on here switched to a nice big ...

quick update on my issues. I've gotten my new parts and setup my volcano and it's working great but sill minor issues. I think my peek fan is crapping out on and off so I've ordered a new one. Also ive noticed that my extruder isn't gripping like it should and getting enough force on the filament ...

So this brought back an issue. If i adjust the Z height through the firmware sometimes it nozzle smashes into the heating bed when i start the print. I tried writing my changes to the eeprom to see if that fixes it and it made it worse by making my z position like 700mm when homed it should be ...

perfect thanks! I wasn't sure what terminology to look for, now i know where to start.

geneb wrote:Change nozzle, reset Z height, print.

g.

Could you elaborate? Are you referring to resetting my Z height using the LCD? Doesn't this still require me to do calibration again?

bunny, profiles for filaments can be created in most slicers, they can include all the parameters, including hotend temp, bed temp, filament diameter and nozzle diameter. you can even include extruder speeds, first layer height and raft no raft option. the only thing you Cant do is have the machine ...

Is there any way to have different profiles where the hotend height is different? My replacement heating element arrived today as well as volcano parts for my V6. I was hoping I would be possible to create profiles with different heights for my hot end. Does anyone know a slicer that can do this ...

It looks like the break and hotend had a gap. Whol;e figuring that out one of the wires to my heating element broke so I'm down for repairs till i get another. I might update my firmware to roll back to the seemecnc hot end if I'm feeling upto it.

http://imgur.com/4Kad6yN
http://imgur.com/fmLhNlu
http://imgur.com/I73xdKo
http://imgur.com/pLJkKZJ

I really appreciate you taking a look and helping me out with this.

Yup i think i've got all the main stuff you listed except the last two? i've totally disabled retraction. I completely took apart the hot end and made sure everything was connected correctly and not loose. The heatbreak is just like in the picture of the e3d setup and i fixed the fan not going down ...

Still clogged up after drilling out the nozzle to .6mm and polishing the tip.

measured a few nozzles from .35mm to .6mm and they all had a bore length of around 1.4 to 1.6mm with .4mm nozzle being the longest which is the one i was using normally. I did a cold pull yesterday to i could see through with no issues to confirm nothing was blocking. I used a 2mm drill bit so I'm ...