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I really don't trust my thermocouple that I have. Does anyone know an easy way to test the thermocouple to ensure it's completely accurate. I checked it in ice water for 0C, and it got pretty close, but when measuring something around 240C, I still don't trust it.

Just wanted to say thank you to everyone that responded. Cambo3d and Eagle, thanks for the recommendation on the power supply. I'm currently using it with no problems thus far. The one thing I will say about it though is it's loud. The fan stays on full blast the whole time. It doesn't bug me that ...

Do you think getting another 14 amp one would work for the Onyx or should I look for something bigger?

I'm sorry, I must not of done a very good job explaining what was glowing. Its actually a component inside the metal case of the 24 volt power supply unit. My RAMPS board is actually running off a 12 volt ATX power supply. The only component running off the failing power supply is the Onyx bed.

It appears to be a ceramic pill shaped cap. There is debris around it that looks to be chips of its casing and its the exposed leads that are glowing red hot. It only glows when the Onyx is drawing power. Other than the glowing, it still functions. Its good to know that the fuse right next to it ...

I had a cheap power supply I bought off ebay. http://www.ebay.com/itm/261199349527?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649 Well it now glows bright orange on the inside when the heated bed kicks on, so needless to say, I no longer feel comfortable using it. I imagine the Onyx bed is ...

I fixed my Onxy heating issues using a 12 volt 30 amp mechanical relay connected to a 24 volt 14.6 amp PSU. I had originally tried with a solid state relay but it melted due to the heat. I would not recommend a solid state relay, because once it became too hot and melted, it did not cut the power ...

I fixed my Onxy heating issues using a 12 volt 30 amp mechanical relay connected to a 24 volt 14.6 amp PSU. I had originally tried with a solid state relay but it melted due to the heat. I would not recommend a solid state relay, because once it became too hot and melted, it did not cut the power to ...

With both fans pointed at the plastic exiting the nozzle (even at 25% speed). The hotend is unable to stay hot and very quickly looses heat. I didn't use any RTV on this rebuild (about my 6th rebuild of this frustrating hotend). What is a good way to insulate this hotend? I'd still deciding which ...

Has anyone looked into this new extruder? I've been considering switching up the extruder and hot-end for my Rostock MAX. It looks to be pretty decent, and they even designed a cold-end hanger for the Rostock MAX. I'm just wondering if using a direct-drive cold-end for a bowden setup will work? http ...

John, I ordered my rostock on the indiegogo campaign and didnt know about the free nozzle replacement. I ordered a new one and got it in the mail today. Is there a coupon code or something you could give me for future purchases I make to offset the cost of me buying it, or I would even take an extra ...

I can run this over and over again and not have a single stall: G91 ;incremental mode G1 E10.0 F3600 ;run extruder for 10mm at 60mm/s G1 E-10.0 F3600 ;reverse extruder for 10mm at 60mm/s G1 E10.0 F3600 ;run extruder for 10mm at 60mm/s G90 ;back to absolute mode It just stalls like crazy when ...

So I'm all the way down to 400, with a jerk of 20. I've lowered the retract speed to 42mm/s and still am getting fairly consistent stalling. I really don't know what else to try. I'm essentially back where I started as far as retract speed goes. Do you have anymore ideas at all?

So I'm all the way down to 800 and still getting stalling (but it's a lot better). Jerk is still at 20. Anymore ideas? Should I keep going lower? If I go lower, is the extrude even getting to 60mm/s during an 8mm retract?

Ok, so I lowered the accel down to 2000, and about one out of 10 runs would still get a little stall. So I dropped it to 1900 and the stalling has gone away. I'm going to feed the filament back in now and see if the problem is gone.

Thanks again!!!

johnoly99,

Thanks for getting back with me. I've been able to try what you suggested. I lowered the accel down to 2500, and jerk was already set at 20. I removed the filament and ran the commands. I'm still getting the "stalling". I'm now going to try and lower accel a bit more.

Thanks

I'm having an issue where anytime I try to go higher than 38mm/s on a retraction, the extruder drive will stall after a retract when the drive is trying to return the filament to the original position. The retract is always smooth, but when it tries to push the filament back into nozzle, the drive ...

I'd be afraid to use AS5 around the resistors because of a short circuit and higher current. Also, my understanding is that too much thermal paste can almost act as a thermal barrier, but that may only apply to it's usage on CPUs, or may be completely made up, I dunno, never tested it. I did however ...

Chances are that if your not seeing the errors it because you have the suppress errors button unchecked right above the bottom status area.

The Rostock MAX is really my first printer that I've ever built. I had a previous failed attempt to get the original Rostock assembled and running. I found the original Rostock to be very flimsy, due to the usage of printed parts, and lack of a rigid frame to hold everything together. The Rostock ...

Thanks, that helps. Perhaps that PVC plate is only for PLA. I noticed it doesn't sit very flat either when clamped down. I think I'm going to try the glass setup, similar to what you showed me. Thanks for the detailed feedback.

In their videos, I see them printing right on the plate. That's what I'm after. What are they doing differently?

Thank you everyone for your replies.

I think I may be doing something wrong. I have my Rostock MAX printing, and it's printing on what feels like a plexi glass build plate that was included (and is being held on by the binder clips). My problem however is my prints are literally fusing to the build plate. Like I have to actually use a ...

Thanks for all your help. It turned out to be the POTS. My vision isn't what it used to be, so I think they weren't turning when I thought they were. I think I have them somewhere in the middle of their range now and there is no skipping to be had.

Thanks!

I have assembled a Rostock MAX using the RAMPS 1.4 board. However, I'm having an issue with the motors skipping. I've tried adjusting the pots on the stepper drivers. I've taken the arms completely apart and filed all the joints to ensure everything moves easily. When I turn the stepper shaft by ...