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I had the same problem. Moved my printer onto the ups I use for my workstation and it went away.

So my first son decided to join the world last Wednesday. While my wife and I were waiting around for him, I started thinking about one of the main things I wanted a 3D printer for -- TOYS! Since I've forgotten a lot of the junk I used to know about how to build flying things, and I'm not super ...

I did, briefly, up to the point where I realized it's imperative to mount the indicator in the same way as the hotend in order to have the values be relevant while printing. Then I got loaded down with work, my son being born, and some other interesting obstacles. There's a lot of stuff I haven't ...

But can you print blinky from the sdcard?

Whoa... That print taught me a lot about ABS... I could actually watch the warping going on real-time. Needless to say, that's a tough print for any FDM machine.

I made it.I'll uplOad to my thingiverse profile tonight or tomorrow.

=( Setting current and microstep settings to Orion defaults did not fix the issue in Configuration.h. It did lessen the issue, though, but I haven't tried that in combination with higher acceleration to see if the lessening is compounding. I'm going to do some crazy stuff tomorrow, including ...

Affordable, entry level printers haven't been around very long at all. 3D printing is very much in the early stages of development. A person with more free time than myself could probably classify 3d printer manufacturers in terms of computer manufactures, and also by operating systems. Seemecnc ...

Oh dear... I see that in the Configuration.h for the old Orion firmware, https://github.com/seemecnc/Orion_Delta/blob/master/FIRMWARE_OLD_083/Repetier/Configuration.h, motor current is defined like so: #define MOTOR_CURRENT {175,175,175,200,0} In my firmware, I do believe, mine is set like so ...

You are a genius. Just put the extruder motor on the effector, and solve like 10 problems at once! :P Not liking that idea so much... What about when retracts occur? The forces generated by that could cause some positional shifting. ..... unless I used a different motor .... Maybe you're the genius!

Odd a thing as it is to consider, pressing down on the effector with about half a pound of pressure eliminates the issue. I may try weighing it down and see what happens. Just need to figure out how to balance 13 255 grain 45cal semi-wadcutters on the platform.

Cuajinais, The price of a brand new, shiney, never-been-mussed-with, still burnt melamine-smelling Rostock MAX V2 is $999 and probably about $150 shipped. I'm just saying, you're having problems with it, and asking for more than that. Obviously the better choice in my position is to buy a new one. I ...

Hmm.... I cranked up the acceleration to 10k for print and moves.seems to have lessened the effect, but it's still there. On a hunch I measured the spacing between my arms, and they vary a bit, like half a millimeter in places. Tried to adjust it, but loosening the nuts introduces slop.maybe ...

Dang, that was a nice video! Can't see spending that much on a mostly stock, allegedly broken, max though.

This happens to me, and lots of other people too, to varying degrees. I believe it is caused by over-sized holes on the arms where they connect to the u-joints. Take one axis as an example. As it raises rapidly on the tower, the play in the hole near the joint is at its "maximum" when it lowers ...

No guesses as to why the nozzle would go down one way, and up the other way?

I'm thinking it has to do with one of the carriages moving too little or too much, and maybe that's a current issue, or a steps/mm issue, or something along those lines.

How much do you want for it?

I've been trying to expand the size of things I've been printing, but I'm having a hell of a time getting it right, and it wasn't until last night that I finally found something that would explain why I've been having such a hard time. Unfortunately, I have no idea what to try next to resolve it. I ...

Here is a 9mm auto printed with the Orion. https://youtu.be/WIeDvHrrMn0 Dude.... The aptitude to build that, and you settle for thick leather gloves? I mean, yeah, that'll probably work in the event of a catastrophic failure, and kudos to you for doing anything at all to minimize the risk of ...

Finally found a good layer fan for the E3D-V6 and this mount.

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:747053

[img]http://i1151.photobucket.com/albums/o637/radicaldev/20150505_184915.jpg[/img]

That is awesome, Chris. Got any pics? Any idea what cartridge the rifle used, and how the stock is holding up?

If that's really a viable option, I might try to make a youth stock for my Henry lever action 45 Colt.

I tried PLA again with the bowden coupler set well on a part with a few retractions that took an hour to print. Aside from a lack of a layer fan leading to some melted spots on the part, it came out OK. Main thing to note is the hotend didn't jam. I ran it @ 200/55 with 1.6mm/20mm per second ...

The jams I was having with PLA in my E3D-V6 were forming between the heatbreak and the bowden tube. The filament would enlarge in that area. I think it was because I couldn't get the coupler secure enough to stay flush against the heat break with the mount I was using. Haven't tried PLA again with ...

In theory, stepper inactive should be a duration which, after no activity at all for that duration, the steppers should be disabled (like when you go to general settings, and disable stepper).

Should not be a factor when printing, because stepper activity is pretty frequent.

I had that problem until I bumped up the speed. I tried a bunch of gluesticks. Elmers extreme hold sold at office depot works well when applied liberally, like .1mm layer or more. If you apply it to a hot bed, wait until it stops steaming before printing. The bubbly action going on seems to work ...