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Yeah, that is true, but the power supplies are 500W. So that means, in theory, that each one could supply 500W / 12V = 42A. That's about double what is needed.

Actually, I just got done doing this upgrade myself. I found a fairly cheap method of doing this and I would like to share it with you. The bed is ~1.2ohm and the voltage is 24V, so this will give a power of 480W. Power supplies are typically not this efficient so you want to look for something in ...

Whenever the device software was installed, I had to restart my computer. So I did try that and it did not help. However, I have fixed the issue. I downloaded the new version of Repetier-Host, and with that Repetier Server. The server was running in the background and blocking the COM port. So once ...

Hello everyone, I had my printer working fine a week or so ago and when I went to start it and run it yesterday, I kept getting an error saying that the COM port was taken and access was denied. I received the same error from Repetier-Host and Arduino. So I am doubting that the software is the issue ...

Alright guys, I bought the heat spreader and it is on its way.

I should have some free time today to measure the resistance across the bed to make sure it is okay there.

I will report back when I have more information.

Yeah I am using temperature probes(type K) and not the laser gun.

Is there a specific heat spreader you would recommend? What is a desirable thickness?

My goal with this project is to have the bed heated up within a few minutes. I don't want too thick of a spreader to make it take forever.

Whenever I get home this weekend, I will try what you have suggested. I will move the temperature probes around and see what the temperature is at other places. I will also try using a heat spreader and seeing if that does help. What if it reads a much higher temperature on the outer edges of the ...

Is it safe to connect them in series? I thought that it was quite dangerous, because one PSU can overdrive the other. But... I'm no expert, just repeating what I read somewhere :P I believe you are referring to connecting them in parallel. If you connect them in parallel, then if one power supply ...

Hello everyone, My Rostock Max has been apart for 5-6 months now because of college getting in the way. During the summer and on any free weekends, I have been working on upgrading the heated bed. It started off I was going to remove the bed completely, buy a MIC-6 plate and lay nichrome wire over ...

How difficult should it be to push it down? I have a toothbrush cup that I place in the center of the bed and then with one hand I am pushing down on it while I tighten the screws with the other hand. After tightening, I place the glass on top of the heated bed and it is still unlevel. I even tried ...

Hello, I have had my Rostock Max bed apart for a month or two now trying to upgrade the heated bed. Recently, I soldered a new thermistor and some 12 gauge wires to the heated bed and installed it back to the printer. However, I am noticing a ~2mm gap when I place the glass on top of the heated bed ...

Hello, I just finished upgrading my Rostock max heated bed and I am having an issue. I bought a 120VAC 550W mat with builtin thermistor along with a MIC-6 plate from sandsmachine. From there, I attached the mat to the aluminum and mounted it to the printer. I also bought an SSR and did all the ...

Oh I got it wrong :P Werner Berry did his own heated bed also. Min 5:46 That's a very neat way to do the heated bed. So the nichrome wire heats up, and then it relies on convection to heat up the plate. That's neat, but with such a thick aluminum plate I wonder how long it would take me to heat up ...

Hello, I am working on upgrading my heated bed. I bought a MIC 6 plate from http://www.sandsmachine.com/alumweb.htm and cut it down to size. Afterwards, I drilled and countersunk the holes to screw in the plate. Then I put a layer of Kapton tape on one side. Now, my plan was to take a designated ...

I would recommend you play around with different slicers, because they each have their advantages/disadvantages. It's not a set in stone thing that you have to use one or the other. MatterControl is not bad, although I use Slic3r. As the people above have said, there is two ways this print can be ...

You can change slicers just as Tincho85 noted. With the various slicers, the settings are going to be different across them, so you will have to set them to your liking. But, since you are not even sure if the slicer is the issue, I would recommend seeing what the slicer temperature says it SHOULD ...

This sounds like a slicer issue. What slicer are you using and have you tried using a different one to see if the issue persists?

I would recommend that you watch the print until this happens. I know that sounds like a sucky task, but there are a couple of ideas that come to my mind. When you are watching the print and this happens: 1. Check to see if the EZ-struder is turning. Watch the white knob and see if it is turning ...

Or you can buy the fuse at Mouser (http://www.mouser.com), part # 576-0448005.MR. Takes a few days depending on shipping. Say I buy a 10-pack from mouser, that's $0.928 * 10 = $9.28. But there is an additional $7.99 in shipping which puts it up to $17.27 at the minimum. Yes if I were to buy many ...

Yeah, I completely neglected that the arms move on the u-joints.

The zip-tie/rubberband idea might work. I have some zip-ties and I'm going to try that and report back.

Hm, that's very interesting. I would have to agree with your theory on why it does not show up in my prints. This is especially true because there is very little inertia created by the lightweight effector/hotend, so it most likely does not cause a problem. Since I am getting such great quality ...

Hello everyone, While replacing the stock hotend with the E3D-v6, I noticed that the effector wobbles quite a bit before it actually starts moving the cheapskates. The holes on the delta arms that snap into the white thingamijigs(not sure what they're called) are too loose. So when the delta arm ...

It is no problem; I enjoy helping out. As for your issue, I see what you are saying and I am not sure where you are getting those equations. This doesn't mean they're wrong, it just means I've never taken enough time to understand Euler angles/quaternions to be of any help with diagnosing your ...

I attempted to project the tower lean vector onto the plane teoman describes and it was some pretty messy math, but then again a lot of this is. I might give it another attempt and see what the CAS system comes up with. Anyways, a couple of hours after I posted a response I realized that my solution ...

I think i have found a solution, but you need to calculate 2 angles. Both of these angles have to be on the vertical plane (relative to the base) that passes through the arm. The first angle is beta, it is calculated using X, Y, Z and the origin of the tower. The second angle is alpha. Alpha is the ...