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Is there any chance of a conversion kit for V2 -> V3? I have to do a lot of fixes to my V2, and it almost seems like the V3 is the answer to the vast majority of them. And I can't shell out 1K for the new kit.

A round number for H-radius is a pretty odd thing. Have you tried adjusting it to get them all at the same height? I had similar problems where I would set the Z0 for the middle, and the edges would be way off. Also, check that your endstops are fairly tightly mounted. they are small enough I've ...

Hello, So I finally got the Max working again, but am running into some...oddities. To sum the prior: * Updated carriages to the new version * Tricklaser CF arms * Added astrodyn dampers * More disassembly-reassembly then I care to admit The issue I'm having is with fluctuations in Z0. For some ...

That' will be a dream come true in a lot of ways :D One note: With the current axle holder, it is the exact right width to fit the TrickLaser CF arms when removed from the original carriages (~36cm as I vaaguely recall). If you guys can stick to that it will make life easier for those with the ...

Ok, after further review, it does decrease at the edge of the heated bed between the towers. And slightly increase at the towers. So, the print area is slightly smaller with 269 mm arms (my oversight). Would that mean that, in the future, 270mm arms would bring things back into spec? Or something ...

Belt tension is kind of a weird thing. There's no real tool that people have easy access to in order to adjust them. You want the belt tight, but not too tight. The tighter it is, the more force the stepper motor has to apply in order to move it. You certainly don't want it tight enough that ...

One coat in stripes with as little overlap as possible is what I usually aim for. I only really use glue for prints that have supports or small areas on the build plate to make sure they don't pop off halfway through the print.

When you decide to try hairspray, Windex does an excellent job of cleaning it off. Maybe its the one I used, but I found that using windex seemed to make it harder for prints to stick afterwards. Definitely do not spray it on a hot bed, any time I tried to heat the bed right after windexing I would ...

Pity. I'll be using it moving forward at least.

Appreciate your help in all of this.

Thanks - actually that metric is the first I've had of anything concrete as far as belt tension. There are a few threads were people were aiming to have a level of pluck where you could use a guitar tuner to pick up the tone! May I suggest that, if its not already in there, to add that particular ...

:D Thanks Gene, One question while I've got you - its been fine for nearly a year now, but the belts were not as tight as they could (should?) be. My thought is that tightening the belts transmitted more vibration than previous, vibrating the grubscrews loose. While the belts were relatively loose ...

:D I'm leaving it off FOR NOW, only because I'm planning on taking the whole motor assembly out for dampers and other fun stuff. But when I'm done with thati t will be THREAD LOCKER ALL THE WAY BOI Unfortunately that wasn't the core of the problem. I'm still seeing uneven travel in all directions ...

Hi all! I broke things again in the pursuit of higher quality prints. I tried tightening down my belts further - so they had a nice 'snap' when pulled instead of a loose flump. All three feel about the same. However, since then, all accuracy as far as travel has gone out the window. Z0 will change ...

Question for you Polygon (or anyone else) Finally got everything dialed in more or less, and was checking to see how speed effected print quality. at <30mm, it definitely looks better. There is still some ridging, but it is far reduced. I need to do a bit more tweaking but I don't think the core of ...

How tight do you feel belts should be? Like get a finger under the belt and pull a bit, and its taut? or you can't really pull the belt at all?

Good idea. Will have to look at extrusion again...hopefully thats it. I'm not printing for the next week or so, we are cat sitting and she's a bit too curious about the RoMax. Plus a heated bed is impossible for a cat to ignore.

Hey all, So after much adjustments, here's where I am at: http://imgur.com/a/hNVI3 There are two primary issues I run into on prints: 1) Horizontal ridging. I'm assuming this is mechanical but I'm not sure where to look. Belts are fairly taut, I can pull about an inch and they are nice and taut ...

If I had access to a machining setup I could probably experiment with a heatsink like that but in NYC access to such spaces is terribly limited.

That said, I might be able to buy some aluminum plate at a hardware store and cut it down by hand...

I bought a northbridge cooler + heatsink for ~8$. Still need to mount it, its a little long so I think I have to adjust the extruder 'forward' a little bit to clear the delta arms fully. With the changes to voltage it sits at ~55-60C, which is still a little to hot for my tastes, so I'm hoping to ...

Looks like they soldered the endstops / motors directly to the board?

I'm going to pick up a pair of rolls on Saturday or Sunday. I'm a little concerned as the RoMax2 hotend is suggested to max out at 245C and PETG seems to print at 230-250 so I'm right at that upper range, but I figure it should be OK. Hopefully it ends up being something awesome

I had the 2 standard cheesy wires and it would not get to 100. 95 was the max, and over time it slowly dropped to 80 when i realised that the connctor going to the bed was fried. Then i made an ssr and put 24v to the bed. That worked fine untill i did something stupid and burned my ssr. Now i am ...

I've been using PETG from Microcenter with good results. 70°C bed, 247°C extruder, PEI bed surface Sliced with MatterControl I was able to reduce stringing and blobs by adding a wipe before retracting. I can attest that the PETG is strong and flexible, does not break as easily as PLA. I was able to ...

Thanks - does the procedure I described more or less sound right? Right now I'm still doing the method prescribed in the build manual (at least in the short term)

So 99% of this is right over my head, but I do have one question: What Dial Indicator model are you guys using? The ones I've been able to find seem like the probe would be too short to go all the way to where it needs to be? I'm doing the paper-calibration for now at least to get back to printing ...