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Yes, it works perfectly.

Has anyone tried to fit one of the new E3D V6 feet on a HE280 hotend? I just killed another thermistor on my HE280 for no apparent reason and would like to switch to a different setup but don't have the funds to switch over to a V6 at the moment. Could I take this: https://www.matterhackers.com/stor...

A little late to the game on this thread, but here is my factory file for my V3.

https://dropfile.to/Sfm5kSw/

At first blush I don't see why not. The Zero W, ($10) would be easier as it has wireless on board, and would save you needing a USB hub and wireless dongle. I don't think you could run Octoprint in desktop mode on it, but standard mode shouldn't be a problem. The calibration script is a simple gcode...

It almost looks like the laser is tilted slightly... I would start by checking to make sure you are mounted perpendicular to the cutting surface.

Check out this post it's meant as a mod to use ninja flex, but you could probably follow it to fix your problem.

http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5298

Here is the mount I designed - it uses one of the screw holes from the original spool mount for the 2nd extruder bowden tube to pass through - you will have to drill it out so it fits through. I attached the files for it and the spool mounts - I pretty much copied another that had some stuff in the...

As a heads up the stock screws attaching the cold extruder will not work. You need to pick up some 6-32x2.5" in order to use the top mount bracket. Something I wish I had realized before disassembling everything last night.

Sounds like the little f3 fuse. It's a little 5a board mount fuse near the primary power on the board. We killed ours once and ordered 10 to kep some on hand.

Hi all I also had problems with warping, what I call a sag. I believe the problem is the fan only cools the side closest to you, leaving the opposite side hot, !!! SAG. I have designed a radial cooling housing for the MAX 2, look on the gcode page for the files, Hope this helps Draw-Tech Did you ha...

One thing we did was replace the stock end stop screws with socket cap screws. It makes it easier to make minute changes to the end stops.

Here is our Max V2 in its new home.

[img]http://i.imgur.com/jwSKbqC.jpg[/img]

Album

I will be putting together a build post with dimensions and what not once I get the chance.

Polygonhell wrote:You can use a DSub connector, the pins are rated for about 1A, so you'd want to use several lines for the heater power.

Whats the amperage for the heater power? I would be possible to get a amphenol type connector with larger pins to handle the amperage for the hot end.

While doing some maintenance on our new V2 I had an idea. I am consistently worried that the wire bundle for the hot end could eventually fray or chafe wires where they pass through the lower plate of the top end. Would it be possible to use something like a D-Sub 15 connector ala 3M™ D Sub Plug to ...