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Once I worked out the self induced bugs like not installing the PDFE in far enough and having the retract too large it has worked very well for me. Oh, and after I install some Kapton tape to block the hot end cooling fan from spilling air onto the bed causing lift problems with ABS. I only print AB...

The two most common causes of that are
1. The bowden tube is not seated all the way down inside the hot end.
2. The retract is too big. For the hE280 it must be very small. Good value is 2mm and not much more.

Dale

Or Maybe you don't have the Start G-Code defined which sets the printer temp.
Mine has
M104 S[temperature]
M190 S[bed_temperature]
M109 S[temperature]
G28

Take a look at the gcode produced by using the save to folder option. Perhaps you will see two extruder temp settings in that. One that you desire and then the one that gets set by the printer. Maybe they are set in the predefined custom g-codes under printer custom g-code.

I have matter control 1.6.1 For me if I change them as you have in the under the extruder temperature settings they are correct in the output file when I tell it to print. Under older versions of matter control there use to be a little save box/button that appeared right below the Material box. The ...

I can't answer all your questions but No there is no firmware for this printer that have LCD commands for movement other than those you already found. Yes you have to have a USB attached device to move them. Painted white heat sink? My HE280 is not painted and I have not seen any that are. They are ...

First try it with no filament in it. If it turns then it is probable that the is a blockage in the hot end. Also remember that it will not turn the extruder until there is a minimum temperature reached by the hot end. If it does not turn try swaping its cable with one of the other stepper motors to ...

Yes there is a manual way but the G29 when you have your settings right and build correct works very well. The manual way is to do what you use to do before the upgrades. However if you want I might be able to help you through your problems. Some of the most common problems are loose connections. If...

It looks like you may have the EEPROM settings for the bed size too large. Check that the max X length and max Y length are 250.
Dale

That kind of behavior is more likely caused by loose wiring or pins that gets triggered by the movement of the carriage to the side.
Dale

The way the rambo firmware uses the accelerometer is not the way you expected. What it does is use the i2c interface to setup the accleerometer to set the INT line when the acceleration exceeds some threshold. Then it monitors that line only during special moves during the calibration process. When ...

The resistors don't ever seem to last very long. I eventually changed over to a heater cartridge. Then I upgraded to the HE280, If you don't want to do the upgrade I have my old hot end with the heater and good thermistor that I could mail you for free. If you want.

Dale

Ok sorry I will take back what I said. You do have a better running start than the first pics showed.
Dale

Welcome, I'm glad for your enthusiasm to make something but it looks to me like you don't have enough of a machine there to do that easily or cheaply. From what I can see you are missing some very important parts like towers and belts and things to hold them together correctly. The parts you do have...

That usually means one of two things. You have the retraction too big when using abs or you did not get the bowden tube seated properly. Usually it is the latter.

Dale

Yes. They needed an extra wire for the sensor and so stole it from the fan and then connected the fan up to power so that it would always run.
Dale

A recent poster talked about his motors no longer working. Turned out the little Red Jumper on the power connector to the rambo board was loose and so the motors were not getting any power. Check that jumper.

Dale

With the new software your shop temp is too low. That is being reported by the machine and it will not work until you change somewhere in firmware that checks the temp value. IF it gets lower than X it will think the thermisters are not working and thus should not run. There are some threads in the ...

I think you installed it backwards. Mine exhausts the air as per the build instructions I think. There is an arrow on the fan I think that shows the direction and the upgrade instructions tell which way it goes.

Dale

Perhaps you have a g code at the top of your files that was ignored by the V2 firmware but now is no longer ignored. Maybe post you initial g-code from the file for the first few commands until it really starts to print.

Dale

V2 and V3 share the same firmware. Only the configuration.h file is modified for one or the other.

I do not have that problem with the December release. So if you wanted to try that version of the release it may work for you. That would partly isolate when the change happened.

Dale

That is the correct process.

Thanks for the explanations. What the printer does when you cancel is (I believe) set by your slicer or printer control program. For instance I use Octoprint or MatterControl. When canceling a print from either one my V2 does not reverse the extruder. I'm using the December release. I could not find...

Also, how are you guys noticing that there are shifts in your Z Max Length? Is there a way to test an increase or decrease? The only time I run the probing script is when I tweak something on the hotend. I haven't calibrated in a few weeks, but I still have great quality on my prints. When I try to...

There's 2 bugs I really wish they would fix: 1.) After a CANX print, the next print sucks up 200+mm of filament after it runs to zero after homing. My only recourse is to hold the EZRstruder until it stops. This seems to happen from SD, Octoprint, and MC. 2.) When starting a print from Octoprint, f...