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Yes! The belt had to be replaced anyway, so I was able to pop out the motor and take a closer look. The pulley was a little loose on the shaft, so I think the grub screw may have just jiggle loose or hadn't been perfectly tightened to begin with. I moved it back into position, gave the grub screw so...

I'll keep trying, but unfortunately it looks like I don't own any Allen keys long enough to reach the pulley. Short by a couple millimeters.

Ah, it does look a little bit more offset than the other axes. Is there any way to adjust the pulley without disassembling the entire printer? It took so long to calibrate...

Right after I finished my last print (a simple Expo marker holder, which printed perfectly), my Y axis was having a really hard time returning to it's endstop. I shut off my printer, let things cool and then tried to manually move my Y axis carriage up and down. When pushing the carriage upwards I f...

I thought so too at first, but I'm reviewing the assembly manual and the checkpoint videos ( like #17 ) and my platform is oriented correctly, with the ball joints facing down and the fan tabs flush with the underside of the platform (their lowest spot). I could probably hack together a solution usi...

I figured, but where can I get the right ones? These are the fan holders that are linked to in the official Rostock v2 user's manual, so I'm not really sure where else to go to find the newest official design. The manual links to these , which say "Old Hot End Layer Fan Shroud New Platform 2015...

When I first assembled my Rostock v2 a couple months ago I used the E3D v6 hotend. However, right now that hotend is down maintenance, so I decided to swap in my original stock hotend for now. But it looks like the nozzle extends a bit further than the E3D's and my layer fans are now blowing onto th...

Just for a bit of closure on this topic, I had much better success by playing with the temperature settings. I had no idea that PLA temperatures could vary so much between colors and manufacturers! One filament I have prints best at 173C, while another seems to like ~205C. May actually experiment wi...

I've been printing with between 2mm and 8mm distances and between 30mm/s and 150mm/s over the past couple days and haven't experienced any jams with PLA yet. Weird. I have also lowered my hot end temperature to 185C and 180C, but it's hard to see if there is any difference yet. Here is a simpler pri...

I have not used (or even assembled) the stock hot end, actually. I got my kit through MatterHackers and thought that the E3D V6 was a pretty obvious upgrade. Given all the soldering and wire work that has to be done, I would really hate to have to swap out hot ends (ever, lol). In addition to the st...

I just assembled my Rostock MAX v2 a couple weekends ago and have been able to get pretty rock-solid performance out of it in most respects. However, all of my prints are terribly stringy and I can't seem to figure out whats causing it. At first I was using the MatterControl settings recommended by ...

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Mwahaha. I was able to solder the wire back on by snipping the nearby case leg and access the very tip of the PCB that way. Wire soldered back on, and leg pushed back together and superglued to normal. Now it works again, and fits much better in the shroud (after a bit of light sanding as the guide ...

(1) Whoops, the effector platform was indeed upside down. That helps a little bit! (2) I noticed that the fan case was sticking out of the shroud by a millimeter or two, and then I double-checked the assembly guide and found a note that I must've passed over in my excitement to finish the process. A...

I just finished up assembling a Rostock MAX v2 and was able to print out a few fan shrouds (1 PEEK shroud and 3 part fan shrouds), but when I went to install the PEEK shroud between the hot end mounting plates I found that I could not fit it perfectly inside the lip of the effector platform, so that...