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That's strange when I use my macro, and one that I created by copy pasting what I put here I get the following in the G-Code Console of the web interface, : 3:03:30 PM Stopped at height -0.980 mm 3:03:26 PM Stopped at height -0.976 mm 3:03:23 PM M98 P0:/macros/Setting H Stopped at height -0.951 mm O...

Depends on what we are talking about here, if we are talking about just taking out the glass and putting it back in the same position (rotation and same side up), not really as long as you have a solid fsr setup, if we are talking about adding an heat spreader, some pei or maybe even taking out the ...

This is my Rostock Max V2 with a onyx rev7, 3mm boro glass, snowflake mounted on an FSR system (FSR positioned between the towers) with heatbed set to 70º and a 125mm radius, done with RC1 not RC3. Height1.png Height2.png Heightmap.csv Here are older versions (done with pre RC1), with cold bed and d...

Thanks for the reply. Ok so the program reporting slightly different results after probing between prints is not out of the ordinary? Right now I think my deviation issue is in large part due to how I setup the H points, at the start I had the H points inverted (using negative values when it should ...

Hi, I just completed my calibration to about 0.05mm, and after over 1 year of basically not printing anything because I couldn't print on the entire bed, I finally have it working in large part due to the fantastic work of the duet firmware (also hardware, the duet wifi steppers are amazing), howeve...

I tested doing a 10 calibration, 3 peripheral and 6 mid way and i got an r-squared of ~0.04. This supports what you said. Is there a way is improve the accuracy or geometrical errors of the printer further from the center? Giving the current state of the printer is it recommend to use more a less p...

So I decided to follow Doug68 advice to have them properly cut, so I ended up doing a laser cut run on the plate (with single led whole, not the double led of rev8), so I should have 17 of them to sell by next week.

Considering you would be paying shippings costs, I would just buy from ebay it will be cheaper and you will get a much better product, also since I haven't done it yet I don't truly know how much work it would be, but genuinely doubt it will be worth it for you, especially when you have dirt cheap d...

Hi, thanks for the reply, yeah I figured it would make a difference, had also considered that the 2 discs would be thermally expanding at different rates, which might make a difference, and ofc thermally bonding the sheets is just going to be more expensive than buying a single sheet with the correc...

Oh yes my bad, I should have mentioned the reason why I'm not buying directly from tricklaser is because I live in Portugal (Europe) so I would be paying 76$ for it, I can get the 2 meters by 1 meter with 1.5mm thickness aluminium plate for roughly 30€, so I can do more than 36 discs for the price o...

Hi, I'm going to place an aluminium heatspreader on my onyx (between onyx and the 3mm boro glass), however the best price I can get on this is to just simply buy a 2000mm X 1000mm aluminium sheet and cut it myself, so I'm going to have enough material to basically do 18 discs, so my question is this...

No idea where you live but look it up on farnell, rs-components, mouser or Digi-key electronics one of these should be in your country and have what you want.

In my very specific case it was the piece that made sure the e3d v6 in place that had some play, the problem was especially big when I didn't had the cables secured, but by repeatability I mean any problem that can affect repeat readings, you should do a macro that imitates the movements of the soft...

Did you use the basic mode, because RollieRowland said on the last page that it was the only mode that was currently working (not sure if still true). If you did I would advise making a mattercontrol macro to check for repeatability, I had that problem and went through several FSR systems and replac...

At this point it would seem like the z-probe option is not working very well (at least not for 2.05A) http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php?p=78704#p78704" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; there have been quite a lot of reports of it crashing, including me I believe some peo...

For those having that issue, I believe that 626pilot smoothieware firmware could solve it, although that ofc means buying a smoothieware board and switching to his firmware, so not the cheapest solution and most pratical solution.

geneb wrote:Why are you changing the baud rate? It should operate at the default Rambo speed of 115200.

If he has a rostock max v2 with the repetier firmware provided by seemecnc on their website, it's set at 250000, which is the default value on version 2.0.5A of opendact.

Have you changed the baud on the firmware, or just the opendact, because if you just change the baud on the opendact, it is normal that it doesn't work properly.

I got the same thing for the basic calibration, so go for AI calibration, and if that doesn't work HAI calibration. Although in my case even though the program was able to end the calibration it is still not working, since my printer has something weird going on, when I probe the center of the bed, ...

Hi, thanks for answering, and that is in fact the issue, although as pointed out in the topic it doesn't create any issues, I tried with and without pauses and I got the same movements. Which is almost a shame was hoping this would be the problem that I'm having, since I have been trying to use this...

Hi, I'm having a strange issue, my printer seems to stutter when doing certain moves, I recorded a video of it https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LIQ_ZDBXl-Y&feature=youtu.be" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; not sure how well it can be seen on the video, but it can easily be...

Hi so I started to the H.I. calibration and I got a fail as in the pic: [img]http://i.imgur.com/kZxtsOu.jpg[/img] can someone tell me what is the problem? Your best bet is probably to check to see if the cheapskates don't have any play, if the belts aren't skipping, and if the towers are well align...

I believe #define MIN_HARDWARE_ENDSTOP_Z true also needs to be set to true for it to work (could be wrong). No, this would only be true if you had a minimum endstop on your z tower. This isn't used for probing. However the Pin 10 is the same pin as the Minimum Endstop, so activating this does power...

I believe #define MIN_HARDWARE_ENDSTOP_Z true also needs to be set to true for it to work (could be wrong).

EDITED: Was wrong.

The printer assembly manual says the following regarding the current: "If your kit was shipped with the Kysan or Automation Technology stepper motors (we covered that earlier, remember?), you're going to need to make a small tweak to the firmware in order to adjust the current drive that they n...