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Two cartridge heaters on that hot end is murderous overkill. Just sayin'. :) g. Well it pulls just about the same current as the two resistors did but should be way more resilient - I don't ever want to have to rebuild this again! Also that way I'm not changing anything about the thermal profile by...

D'oh. :D g. Yeah, I really should have just bailed and bought an all-metal hot-end to put on it... Still will at some point in the future. For now I went with the M3 threaded thermistor suggested and used it as an excuse to buy a set of metric taps :) I have the threaded thermistor installed, but I...

D'oh. :D g. Yeah, I really should have just bailed and bought an all-metal hot-end to put on it... Still will at some point in the future. For now I went with the M3 threaded thermistor suggested and used it as an excuse to buy a set of metric taps :) I have the threaded thermistor installed, but I...

geneb wrote:D'oh.

g.

Yeah, I really should have just bailed and bought an all-metal hot-end to put on it... Still will at some point in the future. For now I went with the M3 threaded thermistor suggested and used it as an excuse to buy a set of metric taps

When I've had clogged nozzles with ABS, I usually "torch" out the clog with a small butane torch. I don't think you can do that with PLA though - I think the PLA just carbonizes inside the nozzle and makes the jam rather permanent. ;) I'm glad to see you got it sorted out! g. PLA also bur...

The thermistor hasn't been discontinued, it's just sold out. They should have stock on them shortly. g. OK Thanks. I looked around the internet and couldn't find them at either Mouser or Digikey. But those little tiny glass beads are not very robust system so the hard-mounted/threaded design has ap...

Thanks for the link, that one looks great. The B value is a bit different, so I think I'll have to update the firmware right? Didn't really want to fully change out the hot end... Easiest upgrade is to an M3 threaded thermistor, such as this one. It's not exactly one I've personally used, but it is ...

Sneak path confirmed. Once I electrically isolated the thermistor wires from the hot-end, the system works correctly.
Except that now I've damaged the thermistor (handling - my fault).
They apparently are no longer available?!?
Is there an upgrade path for a different thermistor?

I think what has happened is that the shell of the cylindrical heaters is connected to one of the leads of the resistor. This means that I've created a short-circuit between the two heaters. Additionally the new thermistor may have a lead touching the hot block and created a 'sneak path' for the con...

I guess I've fried something, but my hot end control won't every turn off. Even after cycling the main power, I measure 12.3VDC at the Rambo board. How did I manage that? Well... I was changing out the heating resistors for heat cans, and ended up with 2 heat cans that measure 4.2ohms. So instead of...

What stepper motor are you using with the Titan Aero? Hi, I'm using the recommended stepper from E3D. They call it Nema17 Slimline: http://e3d-online.com/Electrical/Stepper-Motors/NEMA17-Titan-Slimline Some people are using and even smaller one, which is +/- 30g lighter but with a 1.8º stepping ang...

... As for a direct drive extruder for the V2 I personally recommend the Titan Aero, just because that is what I'm using. To compensate for the extra mass/weight, Jerk and acceleration were reduced, but I'm still printing reasonably fast. 60mm/s print and 200mm/s travel moves. Some folks around her...

Thanks, exactly the kind of information I was looking for
-- Emory

P.S. Your English is fine!

Has anybody seen/built a non-bowden tube flying hot/cold extruder for the V2? I've seen the suspended systems. The general wisdom is that the stepper is too heavy to fly but I'd be willing to go slow in order to get rid of the bowden tube setup...

... But in evaluating this setup I've decided to instead insert a ceramic tube in place of the PTFE tube. ... I have found a ceramic material called MACOR it is a machinable Glass Ceramic that I think would be perfect for someone to machine a new type of hot end tip and all as one piece instead of ...

Thanks all for your replies. IMBoring25, the ambient appears to get around 31 degrees. I could pump it a bit more as there is one setting higher. I am a little lost on your powering description. What do you mean by a load on the 5v rail? Also I'm not sure of the terms PSU and SSR. I'm not sure of t...

So this might be helpful to some and purely conjecture on my part until I experience it again... I printed ProtoPasta CF PLA filament for about 2 weeks solid, 8 hrs a day to make the parts for my fly fishing reel kits. My big event was this past weekend. I shut the printer down before I left. I did...

Xenocrates, thanks for the info!

But I found the problem...my knurled wheel is all smooth down the middle - no bite on the filament! Ordering a replacement...

Jimustanguitar wrote:If it's ABS, just soak it in acetone.

Nope... PLA...

So I'm pretty sure I have some 'gunk' in my nozzle - what's the recommended way to clean it? On a nozzle without a PEEK tube I'd just hit it with a blow torch...

OK - have several test prints done and one pic to share. IMG_20150909_210904633_HDR.jpg On the left is 80mm/s - might actually be slower than that since I had the cooldown parameter set. On the right is 40mm/s - no other parameters changed. WAY smoother. We did do a break test on one of these at the...

ABS will split like that on large prints because it shrinks. The lower part is being held in tension across the print bed, but eventually the top half will exert enough pressure that it will pull away from the lower half splitting the part. The industrial machines heat the entire build volume to rel...

Running hotter does lower the viscosity and I would expect less wear but might introduce other problems. Which filament are you using? They are very different. ProtoPasta bought through matterhackers. I'm running it at 230 and 80mm/s - I think that temperature is artificially high, I expect the act...

Excellent insights by everybody, thank you all so much! I've only printed a few parts, but was able to use the same gcode as regular PLA - the prints came out beautiful. One option for the nozzles - my brother has a full machine shop and suggested making a nozzle out of bronze - copper+silicon/tin -...

https://youtu.be/mk30MPLoYf4?t=2006 Check out what Sanjay and Joch from E3D have to say about it. I'd definitely advise getting a hot-end with a steel nozzle. Or order lots of spares and figure out a schedule for changing them. Thanks! I was just about to post that same video link :) https://youtu....