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Well was bored over the weekend, so glued up the new arms and mounted them.

[img]http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c30/Dougie085/CNC/IMG_20150922_1212591_zpsdcruxlga.jpg[/img]

Definitely a bit more solid now, less wiggle on the effector and seems to print smoother.

Dsteck, the last price was for the complete machine with the listed extras.

How about 750 shipped lower 48? Or 800 and I'll include all the hatchbox abs I have as well as the orange pla. There is a roll of black transparent, red, and blue these rolls aren't full but are at least half, there'd and blue are probably 3/4. Knock 30 off for local pickup near Youngstown/Akron Ohio.

Those rubberbands were temporary until I got springs but never got around to getting the springs lol. Then got the carbon arms and I believe the trick laser straps will fit around the carbon arms. Also it's had 495.2m of filament ran through it. So it's still pretty new, I just want to build a machi...

[img]http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c30/Dougie085/Rostock%20For%20Sale/IMG_20150917_2028101_zpsaqlgwlmj.jpg[/img] [img]http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c30/Dougie085/Rostock%20For%20Sale/IMG_20150917_2028541_zpsgj8alpvo.jpg[/img] [img]http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c30/Dougie085/Rostock%20Fo...

Pretty standard looking lol. It's black only a few months old. It works, just want something with more print area, and want to build it my self completely. I think shipping it assembled shouldn't be too bad if I wrap it up pretty good with bubble wrap with some solid foam on top and bottom. I'll try...

Tell you what, I would sell the entire machine complete with the genuine J-head (from hotends.com the creator) and all the various other pieces I've bought (including carbon arms, hardware kit for carbon arms from trick laser, trick laser zero backlash straps, etc etc) I will sell everything for 850...

Or best offer of course, I won't have much use for the rest of it, steppers are pretty cheap like 50 bucks for a set of 4, and then whatever electronics you want. I'll leave the microswitches and all the wiring intact.

I'm working on building an all metal frame machine and so I have my Rostock Max V2 that I'm looking to get rid of minus the electronics. I have a carbon arm kit that I can include, it'll have all the wiring, the stock hot end, the extruder, etc. just no steppers, controller, and so on. Will also inc...

Also here you can kind of see the pattern and ridges in the top layer of the bottom here

[img]http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c30/Dougie085/CNC/IMG_20150906_1601591_zpsviyjpoys.jpg[/img]

I'm guessing you mean pics of printed parts? [img]http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c30/Dougie085/CNC/IMG_20150906_0146081_zpsuk4wpnr5.jpg[/img] [img]http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c30/Dougie085/CNC/IMG_20150908_2043541_zpsoojwyirh.jpg[/img] [img]http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c30/Dougie085/CN...

Hi Geneb, I was told to talk to you about my machine lol. I purchased it from hotends.com it's part of the reason I bought one :) I forgot the older models didn't use the ball-ends. But they used the carbon tubes I think? Anyways TrickLasers arms are pretty expensive. But I am considering replacing ...

I'll try that. Apparently with the older traxxas ball joint type connectors there wasn't this much play. Which imo kind of sucks considering I'm sure they went injection molded for cost.

Got a pic of what you mean?

So been talking on #reprap trying to work through some issues. I've replaced my hot end with a genuine j-head with a .4 nozzle. Currently I'm trying to print with ABS running my hot end at 230c and the bed at 100c. I'm having issues with infill it never seems to work quite right when it's at a lower...

I've got that same sapphire blue and it's not much out of tune, it just got slightly more than normal which is why it's on clearance now. Most other places would sell it as grade A likely.

Ugh, well adds a bit more money to the swap over.

Why not an automotive style unit like one of these? http://www.amazon.com/Vehicle-Relay-Switch-Power-5-Pin/dp/B00E1L9II4/ref=sr_1_cc_7?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1440561394&sr=1-7-catcorr&keywords=24v+spdt" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; There are some 24v 100amp unit...

So the best way then is to use a 25 amp relay or so and run the heated bed directly off the PSU being triggered by the bed output of the rambo? That way I can get the 20amps it needs and run it at 480w?

I ordered Hatchbox when I first built my machine and I have to say I'm not impressed at all. It worked ok for a couple days but I've had huge inconsistency issues with the diameter ranging from 1.4 to 1.9 on almost all my stuff! I've since ordered some stuff from Atomic Filaments and I'm extremely h...

Man I'm having a hell of a time with these colored ABS filaments. For some reason the little cog that strudes the filament through the extruder is eating away at the filament.

Well I went to a higher infill and what not and printed a part last night and it didn't have that issue. So maybe it was the infill I was using? Although it did start doing that a bit on the first layer of a top layer but it was smoothed out by other layers after that.

Well, I swapped the ABS out that I was using and put in the Hatchbox Red ABS that I purchased. Tuning for this has been a bit of a pain honestly but I'm starting to get it dialed in for this filament. The problem I'm having at this point is an infill problem. It works pretty good on most of the test...

Hmm, well that's interesting. I want to swap my steppers over to 24v as well though. Either way shouldn't be hard to adjust the PID max down a bit to run this bed a bit lower than 24v. And as far as who said that it was in some info I saw from SeeMeCNC. Nitewatchman, if I adjust the PID max down so ...