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I printed this yesterday. The PLA doesn't like my camera phone. It looks much better in person. More importantly, it fits PERFECTLY in the aluminum extrusion it was made for.

That looks great! When you fixed up your rig, did you do all the upgrades you mentioned all at once or did you see how things went as you got the parts? I'm just curious if you could pinpoint as to what upgrade/fix you might have done to really turn your prints around. So, I didn't upgrade my hoten...

That last post makes the stiffener look low quality. I'll upload a close-up when it's done printing.

This is just something I printed early today when I was fiddling around. This is the kind of quality I see at 75 mm/s even on my large 6-7" models.

Wow that case kicks ass! What else have you made?!!? Nothing really. In that shot of my printer you can see I squirted out one of those EZStruder fixtures (also a spindle for the spool up top). I love the EZStruder. Right now I'm printing more a few more stiffeners for the shop (they wanted a few t...

Oh neat! a real tri-corder! I would say no, because in my mind a tricorder captures and analysis every useful wavelength and can be used from a good distance (several feet at least). With our instrument fruit on the tree/vine, etc. need to be placed right up against the glass. And our device only c...

Well, I'm really glad I didn't throw it away now. Thanks again for all the help!!! Attached are images of my latest creation (the blue enclosure for a new instrument my employer is building). I bought my Rostock Max to make useful things to boost my career. And at least in some small way, mission ac...

The best idea on how to calibrate is to download the latest copy of Geneb's assembly manual and follow the calibration instructions in the manual. Your print looks good for not being calibrated except for the strings, just think how good it will be after you do a complete calibration. I guess now y...

This is my first print with the new hardware. So far I've installed the fans, EZStruder and tricklaser arms. I LOVE THE NEW EZSTRUDER! So freakin' easy and reliable. This print took ~12 hrs @ high-speed. This enclosure prototype is 6.3" tall. The quality is much better when I slow things down. ...

Dunno what your talking about Jim, I use Marlin on all of my printers, including the MAX I built :P Marlin works very well, there's not a problem with it or anything like that. Repetier is just "smarter" in how it calculates tool movements (especially speed) plus it's the currently suppor...

The $500 seems fair to me. But after I spend $$$ on these upgrades, I'll probably want something like $700 + shipping. ...IF I can't get it to work. So far I'm hearing.... 1) Trick Laser Arms - More expensive, maybe overkill, worth the peace of mind. http://tricklaser.com/Carbon-Fiber-Tube-Arms-wit...

The $500 seems fair to me. But after I spend $$$ on these upgrades, I'll probably want something like $700 + shipping. ...IF I can't get it to work. So far I'm hearing.... 1) Trick Laser Arms - More expensive, maybe overkill, worth the peace of mind. http://tricklaser.com/Carbon-Fiber-Tube-Arms-with...

CJGerard wrote:The trick laser arms or the new seemecnc arms

Those new seemecnc arms are much less expensive. Are they really comparable, performance wise?

Is this what I need?

http://e3d-online.com/E3D-HotEnds/E3D-V ... tal-HotEnd" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Are there any other parts I'll need to attach this to my rostock max?

So, I should buy this set of arms? http://tricklaser.com/Carbon-Fiber-Tube-Arms-with-Metal-Ball-Rod-Ends-RM-ARM-CFTX.htm" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; My arms, and the joints, worried me before. Once, 8 hours into a print, the pin holding one of the arms in place slid out ...

I purchased a year ago and never really got my printer working properly. I could print calibration objects sometimes, but it seemed like things constantly needed to be adjusted. Most of my actual prints failed. I had started with ABS, more recently I acquired some PLA and that seemed like it worked ...

It's got to be more than the random start option. I've got that checked, my part is perfect except for this issue. It always screws it up going up on the Z axis. I'd love to know how to fix it.

So, add another set of wires to the Hot End 2 plug? Do I simply mate up the positive and negative wires? No, I meant add an extra pair of wires to the Onyx hotbed. Your hotend should be sufficient with only 1 pair of wires. The onyx takes a LOT of juice to heat up to 80C - adding an extra set of wi...

What about just printing the valleys then using a spackle blade to fill them with solder paste?

From what I've read, Sn63Pb37 solder melts between 182 and 183 degrees. Why can't you put something like that in a 3D printer instead of ABS, etc. ...Of course I'm asking because I'd like to know if I can draw/print a PCB

And?

What caused that bad side?

What's that white stuff in the joints of the support for the print head assembly?

The .5mm wall is printing fine now. At least, I printed two that looked great. I'm printing the Hollow_Cube now. ...And I'm aiming the fan away from the model. I'm guessing I should aim it the other direction. I'm using a Feedrate of 50 and Flowrate of 100. My temp is set to 240 (probably high). I'l...

What causes edges to curl and be misformed like this...

Likely connections are bad or motor is bad. This just happened to me.