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I choose to chop off the two lower screw holes of the E3D peekfan, to make room for the ball-joint screws on the effector. This way it is no problem to have the ball-joints above the effector, instead of below. That makes finding layerfans a lot more easy I hope (not searched yet). Also it is much e...

That is great info! I'll be searching the components for sure!
Maybe you have some suggestions for those?

Ah, would have taken me a lot of time to figure out for my selve. Thanks! Is there something to say about a preference for relative vs absolute extruder moves? DC42 sets relative as a default.
So I have to set Kiss to relative (printer settings I presume?) or the config.g to absolute...

I was very content with dead time on my Rambo for the bed. I am not so sure that it works the same wonder for a hotend because of the very low thermal mass. Because of the conversion to a duet board, I had to find a different method. Although bang-bang on the duet works much like dead-time on the Ra...

If you have still have any choice in it, go for more wattage. I think 350W is even less than the older Viotek atx psu SeemeCNC used to sell with the V2 (and probably V1).

I am upgrading my old melamine cheapskates and arms to the new injection molded skated and ball-cup-arms. I think I am quite done, but am looking for an efficient mount for the E3D V6. In the upgrade guide on duzoki Gene shows that the balls on the the effector should be below the effector, but for ...

I have been having an odd problem with KISS: https://goo.gl/photos/PgnGhEWcTMeDt46E6 This was noticed just after a conversion from Rambo to Duet. So firstly I though of some firmware option that was beyond my EZ Struder. But then I sliced the same testcube with slic3r, and that just went fine. So no...

So, you can use a 24V supply with a 12V onyx without anything catching fire? What Xenocrates already said, plus the fact that most of "us" turn down the PSU voltage to the lowest possible setting of around 20V for must PSU's. Many here use the well known Meanwell's. I have a Delta Electro...

Thanks DC42 for your patience towards my pre-assumptions. Sometimes we say: "assumptions are killing" :oops: The board is working nicely now, and I am ready to take it inside of the base. Yesterday I printed a 20mm testcube in ABS. That looked already better than anything I printed before....

NIce write up! And indeed a GIG that says it almost all.
PITA that I can't print that (at least not with the moving lines! )

BTW, I fired up the Onyx with this SSR. It took about 20 minutes to get from room temp to 75C. The Onyx has a thick GeckoTek aluminum plate on it (great heat spreader), and borosilicate glass clamped to that plate with binder clips. The glass has a folded-over dish towel during the warm-up phase. W...

I understand what you are telling Xenocrates. In the PID tune for the hotend I had to set the P-parameter to 0.4 for the hotend not to exceed 240. In the case of the bed, due to the SSR, I cannot set the P parameter any why that it works, because the SSR is just closed or not. I understand that PWM ...

Thanks DC, but I am confused. While tuning the hotend, I learned that (other then with the Rambo) you reduce power to the heater until it cannot heat anymore. Calculated PID values are based on the power, and the time it needs to go to the max temp. Since the SSR always gives 100% power in an open s...

I just tried a pid tune preheated to 30C using M303 H1 P0.5 S240. That is working. First I got an error about reaching the max temp. I lowered the P to 0.3 and with that it reaches a max of 202.1C. I copied the resulting M307 H1 A615.2 C174.3 D9.1 B0 to the config.g I guess the PID values are calcul...

My guess is that you have one of the older Duet 0.6 boards with 1K thermistor series resistors, and a low ambient temperature. The 1k series resistors give poor accuracy and resolution at low temperatures, which is why they were increased to 4.7K in later production. Unless you can change the resis...

Still no connectors for leads, so I cut off everything and started knitting it to screwterminals as they are. I was already able to do a 7-factor calibration, so motion is all okay. Still a few questions though. But first a picture of my Max on the IC of my office ;-) TestingDuet06.jpg Looking throu...

I think I would already be extremely satisfied... I have to tweak my new Duet setup a bit. It is already autocalibrating my V2 with FSR's, but I will have to calibrate the thermistors first, the defaults make no sense (at least not for my thermistors...). Then tune the extruder and PID's. If all wor...

I used ÖLFLEX® HEAT 180 SIF 1 x 6 mm² wire (compares to AWG 9.5) for my 20V setup. And did the same fanning at the onyx side before soldering. The only downside is that it does not flex very easy. I was thinking about using an XT60 between the bed and the SSR/PSU to make it easier to lift the top-ba...

Haute Couture!

I've tossed it into a corner and don't know when I'll have time to mess with it. The unnecessarily loud cooling fan is putting me off the whole idea. I googled a bit because I never heard of this before. I would have thought that it is a cheaper alternative to multi-extrusion. Until I saw the price...

Probably too obvious but is your pushfitting working? Maybe replace it? Has this bondtech been working okay before, or is it a new install? Maybe it is pushing much to hard, or trying much too quickly. I hear bondtechs have a lot of strength and grip on the filament, so it might be strong enough to ...

I have been pondering a small cnc router,,, more like micro. With a cutting area of a business card, or a post it note. I suppose 10x that size will not be significantly more expensive... Does it have to fit in a drawer? ;-) I have my Duet in the works. Still debating myself whether to wait for the...

Glad I could help. Already saw your post on Facebook

John, those will fit, but they are not latching and polarized.
I've seen that shop before. Toch bedankt voor de tip

Sorry you're having to wait for the slow boat. I buy all my latching connectors (male & female) from Hansen Hobbies. You can find them here: http://www.hansenhobbies.com/products/connectors/pt1inlpconnectors/ Click on the connector with the pin count you need and it takes you to a page that off...