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After completing the HE280 upgrade on my Rostock Max V2 I am getting this bizarre jumble of characters on my LCD after clicking connect in MatterControl. I have reflashed and checked all connections. It does not seem to impact performance of the printer but does make it hard to use standalone. When ...

I am also having this issue with the temperature dropping once printing starts. I just replaced my thermistor and the problem has not been resolved. What other causes should I look at? Even if I crank the set temp up once the drop starts it has a hell of a time recovering and if the fans are on it i...

When my son and I had issues like this, it was the fact that the new hot end had a different Thermistor type and the setting needed to be adjust in the firmware. Could you please elaborate on this or direct me to a reference? I am having this same problem, holding slightly below set temperature; if...

Oh I had a similar issue when I started with Octoprint last week. Let me see if I can remember how I got past it. I will be back to update this after some investigation. To verify, you are showing that you are connected to your printer and it is marked operational? Do you get a still image from your...

I was having this issue as well. The workaround I found tonight was to take my entire slic3r folder from my repetier-host install and replace the one in matter control with it. Just delete the whole thing and paste in the new one, then restart matter control. From limited testing it seems like the S...

Just tried the MC leveling feature myself. It is supposed to save the settings and apply to them to your gcode every time you slice. You only need to update if you make mechanical changes to the printer or hot end. Also, as Eagle said, more zones will give you more accuracy. Downside is it makes the...

Elmer's Disappearing Purple glue sticks are my weapon of choice. Good to know about the feeler gauge offset.

I had to really stare for a while to determine what all was going on with your printer. What a beast. Maybe I am off base here but I think even with just the right balance of weight and retraction force you may find that you are putting more work on the extruders still to move that weight around. Pr...

I did print a semi-flexible TPU, which is much stiffer than ninjaflex, through the 2.0 without issue on my Rostock max. I doubt the added firction of the 1.8mm tube would have helped with the flexible filaments. To remove the play in your bowden tube, you should wrap a solid-core wire or print a sm...

The 2mm ID bowden tube sounds like a winner. I was having issues with my prints that turned out to be related to my retractions being too long/fast. It would actually back the bowden tube partially out of the hot end and then the filament would bunch up. I turned that down and the problem -seems- to...

I had this problem and changed my extruder heat manager to dead-time. http://www.repetier.com/dead-time-control/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
It might work for you, mine is doing fine like this.

Edit: I have some functional setings for now, but am still seeing issues. As far as Z height goes, none of my perimeter loops are printing. Not sure it the filament is just melting out of the nozzle and it takes a bit to build it back up or if my endstops are not properly calibrated. Still working o...

Hi blackrabt! I have seen some of your posts and I hope that you were happy with the answers you received. Happy Printing! Yes I have, thank you. Many more questions in mind but they are gradually working themselves out with sufficient research. No need to rile up the forum for a problem already so...

Glad to see you got it worked out Windshadow! I was feeling bad for you over the holiday knowing you were unable to proceed.

Been lurking around here for a few months before I made my order. Love seeing the projects you are all working on. Building my Rostock Max V2 has been my first dip in the 3D printing arena in about 8 years. I really did miss it. Right now I am getting used to not having access to a Pro version of So...

Buddy of mine is going the buildtak route, I will let you know what I hear.

Any word on the effectiveness of the oil?

Have you tried playing with print speed to see if it changes the harshness of the backlash?

Has anyone tried the Trick Lasers insulators to compare to the Astro dampers?

Really helpful information here, thank you.

So I still haven't solved this issue, but I was able to move on to calibrate and then print my PEEK fan holder! If a few of you fine folks want to share some PID values so I can see about just basing mine off of yours it would be appreciated. I did hit a new issue though. Mattercontrol tries to sta...

So I still haven't solved this issue, but I was able to move on to calibrate and then print my PEEK fan holder! If a few of you fine folks want to share some PID values so I can see about just basing mine off of yours it would be appreciated. I did hit a new issue though. Mattercontrol tries to star...

I checked the Rambo wiring and round the extruder motor connector was backwards but the rest looks good, including the thermistor connectors. When it cools again I am going to undo the hot end and see what I can find. I also tried setting the temperature of the bed and hot end with Gcodes and lettin...

Should you be making changes to EXT_0 instead of EXT_1... In my EEPROM menu there is only EXT.1. I think there were example settings for PID in the manual. Start with those. The ones you have sound wildly off. PID max is a Band-Aid. My present values match the ones in the manuial screenshot exactly...

Workaround - I changed my extruder heat control to setting 3 and calibrated for dead-time using http://www.repetier.com/dead-time-control/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; . Just finished building my Rostock Max v2 and am trying to run the PID tuning (M303 S200, per my manual...

geneb wrote:1. I'm bummed. He didn't even get me flowers!

g.

I will of course respect the final ruling. For what it is worth, I did not have enough screws in my kit to complete it with the 3/8" screws, but did have just the right number of 1/2"