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That's interesting... for me, it seemed to take a little longer to get to temp with the heat spreader. But it seems to be more stable after getting to temp. I really want to do the conversion.... but if it's $100 to do it right, there are other upgrades to consider first. I can't decide if I want ...

Sounds like a bad thermistor. At room temp what ohm reading is your thermistor at?

Xenocrates wrote:
If you haven't given up on that power supply, you can buy a new IEC connector at Abel electronics in St Claire shores (I think. I looked it up.)

Off topic, but I lived in St Claire Shores! Small world

With 7 solid top layers (try 4) your print does not have enough time to cool before it adds the next layer and collectively the top box of your print stays molten longer causing the issues you see. You could slow your print down(try this first as it will also help the ripple/ghosting in your print ...

L=Black, N=White, symbol=ground=green.

Welcome! I see your figuring out the forum.

Looks like you are possibly seeing your infill pattern show through your outer shells. try 3-4 outer shells on that print again. Your last issue seems to be your print cooling fan is not set at a high enough flow. Are you printing outside in or inside out?

Just wanted to share replacement panels I designed for my Rostock Max V2. I use a "Raymond style enclosure" and wanted my upper and lower panels to match the style. I just finished the design of the lower panels and I am printing the final piece now. Lower Panels Here. http://repables.com/r/782 ...

I did a very similar 24v system on mine as well. Its working great now for about 6 months. I just bought an additional stock 12v supply and tore into them so I could modify how the grounding system operated. Well done.

Forget the wiring.... I want to know when you're going to sell that effector platform and those sexy ball cup carbon fiber end tips!!! I have a few of the aluminum platforms available now that I milled on my CNC. I expect to have a batch of (50) from my local water-jet guy in a few weeks. http ...

Would anyone have advice on where to source carbon fiber arms with the SeeMeCNC ball-cup ends? I am looking to change to carbon fiber arms because of the hotend set-up I am using with stock arms(need smaller diameter) will not allow full use of the build plate of my V2. I see trick laser has the ...

You do not want air currents near your printer when using abs, your part will warp if you do.

Adjust your z height a little lower so the nozzle extrudes a wider bead on the first layer. Is your first layer 50% slower then the others? Are you applying the glue on a room temp build surface? Have you tried increasing the hotend temp? Are your temps stable when printing? +/- .5 degrees Is your ...

Added the 7" LCD face plate as an option. Hope someone finds this helpful.

You can add KAPTON tape(on the side your not going to print on) before you install the adhesive on your PEI sheet as an alternative to using flat black bbq/stove paint, that way dc42's Mini Height Sensor Board will trigger properly.

Very Nice Work! You helped me with the how 2's of calibrating my BlockHead(my printers name) you also helped me better understand why. Thank you very much 626Pilot!

It works great if you paint the back of the PEI matt black first. I used spray on barbecue/stove paint and cured it in a domestic fan oven at 170C for a couple of hours. After that the paint adheres really well to the PEI. The reason for the paint is that PEI is transparent to IR, and you don't ...

I wanted to share this in the hope it will help others. ;) I have design this based on "3D-print", It is a three piece mounting and enclosure for Duex4, PanelDue, and the 4.3in touchscreen. It mounts In the same place the original RAMBo LCD controller mounts. :D http://repables.com/r/768

Sounds like endstop adjustments and more paper! :D You may also want to watch your effector as its moving, you may be slightly loading/torquing (from your wire harness and air tube) directly opposing your y tower amplifying your issue. I also had great results (easier bed leveling) by just floating ...

Wow! Jumping straight into a self-designed Delta as your first printer :shock:... :D Here is my 2-cents 8-) : Thermal -- Hot-end: I use SeeMeCNC hot-end and E3D V6 and E3D volcano hot-ends with the SeeMeCNC effector and ball joints with MakerHives yellow jacket quick connect boards for light weight ...

Very cool!

page 13 of the "Rostock MAX v2 User's Guide" found here: http://download.seemecnc.com/rostockmax ... dition.pdf

This will show you how to adjust your motor current

Ok, time for me to give y'all some actual information: My belts are tensioned as per the directions, if y'all have any way to put a numerical value to it I'll adjust accordingly. I went back and and found a video on calibration. It was immensely helpful, as I didn't know that I had to calibrate the ...

Will do...