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Oh thanks, this was driving me crazy. Not a very intuitive program.

OK it isn't that I can't move an object in MatterControl, I can move it, but when I go to print it, it prints in the center instead, every time! Example: I want to print the calibration cube near the edge of the build plate. So I do Edit, select the cube, drag it to the edge, hit Save. The 3D View i...

Here is my first print with it in progress. PLA at high speed with the bed at 30c, just a little over room temperature because my basement is cold.
Looking good so far. I'll be excited to try ABS. If it can do away with ABS juice and the like, that would be pretty great.

Hmm, never saw that article on the website before so I guess it is pretty new. Would like to know what it is exactly, and if it works as intended. In my experience laminate gets damaged pretty easy when removing parts. In that regard it might be rather expensive. This stuff seems pretty tough. If y...

So I just purchased a 5-pack of Fablam from SeeMeCNC, and I laminated it to a piece of 1/8" thick acrylic. Pretty easy to work with, it went down pretty smooth with a burnishing tool. You have to be a little careful to avoid air bubbles. Apparently you're not even supposed to use heat with this...

SOLVED! JJ and the rest of the crew at SeeMeCNC did an amazing job tracking down this issue. The issue is real, it doesn't happen in all circumstances and may depend on the environment of the machine. It is confined to machines with the 12VDC 29A power supplies they began shipping a few months back....

Verbatim white is white.

I pointed out in my thread a while back that the bed physically moves when power is applied, I made a video with dial test indicators moving while the PID is settling in. I switched over to Repetier and dialed in PID properly and now it doesn't do that at all once its warmed up and settled in. Bang...

Did you have to tune the PID manually?

Are both power supplies putting out the same voltage? Also, -10 points for telling the guy that wrote the manual, what the manual says. :D g. In my earlier post, I stated: "I used a Mean Well NES-350-24 dialed back to 19v." -10 points for asking a question that was answered already. ;)

That's not exactly what he meant. I believe that he referred to the 4 wire sets which go to the stepper motors from the Rambo being too close to the wires which go to the bed from the rambo, rather than the wires which provide power from the PSU to the rambo (which will always be in parallel as the...

I suspect you've got stepper motor wires running in parallel with the bed power wires - that would explain the issue that you see and nobody else does. I'd also try measuring the voltage of the bed during it's constant-on heating phase to see what the voltage output is - make sure your hot end is h...

Nice work. I'm really surprised with the slicer results. I can't imagine how the slicer has an impact with heater control once the print is running since that is done in firmware until another M140 or M190 is issued. The heater is completely controlled in firmware so I could see different firmwares...

I had z-ribbing issues as well, also caused by the heated bed. But I was using PID. Solved by putting a dedicated PSU on the bed rail.

Agreed. Good work!

Are you running with a heated bed? Having the heated bed on caused my parts to have z-ribbing. See my post under Troubleshooting for details.

I resolved it by adding a dedicated PSU on the heat bed rail. Now the banding is gone and the bed heats faster to higher temps and is way more stable. I used a Mean Well NES-350-24 dialed back to 19v. No excess heat on the mosfet on my rig but use at your own risk and discretion. http://www.amazon.c...

Which PSU do you have?

Here is something I discovered on my new Rostock Max v2: Z-ribbing or horizontal banding in fairly regular intervals. It gets worse with the speed turned up and is also better or worse depending on which slicer is used. After extensive testing and many theories, I discovered that the problem went aw...

By having a regular pattern like this it causes the vertical lines, because there is some overlap between the infill and the outer walls. Even if you have 3 or more outer walls, those lines still show through. Try randomizing your infill angle at every layer. It was suggested to me to set your infil...