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In my case post crash calibration was thrown out by the fact that I had not completely seated the three screws that hold the inner and outer carriage halves together around the towers. If those half's can spread apart even minutely, it affects the effective length of the Delta arm on that side of ...

So I used the Escher.com calculator to attempt to get those Opp tower z heights down -with little success. That program mainly just had me reduce horizontal radius, which just made my z heights low at the towers and a little less high at Opp tower positions. The bed is no flatter than before. I ...

My bad. What I should have done all along was call Matter Hackers support. The procedure is this: first calibrate with the end stop screws; second, put crazy glue on the end stop screws,; in Matter Control go options, calibration and follow the prompts for the 13 pointnbed probing procedure. Matter ...

My bad my bad!! What I should have done rather than writing all those posts was: call Matter Hackers support. The following was learned: The variances in tower spacing are within accepted cnc cutting norms (I of all people should have known this being an cnc guy; my bad). The way to eliminate the ...

Okay, I measured my tower separations. And my suspicions (that occurred when I noted near but not exactly perfect results with the square) have turned out to be true. My towers are not parallel. I purchased it for the advertised build area, but it looks like I erred. x to Y tower distances were ...

Thanks for the photo and explanation. I did do the square in three directions for each tower using a 16" square: no twist. Need to get digital calipers to read tower distances. Think I'll use a metal bar plus inside caliper to get the distances, comparison not absolute numbers being of interest. If ...

Thanks. So I read the instructions and understand up to the final formula in step 8 which says " New Horizontal radius = (.5 * current z offset) x Delta." Does "*" mean times (same as "x")? Wouldn't that result in a really small number compared to the old horizontal radius? Or is that just the new ...

Is there a tutorial/help with using/ understanding the table? Does it relate in any way to my "too high between towers" issue?

Didnt think of retractions. Thanks for mentioning that. It sounds DS like waiting for PRI ter to be in an infill, hitting pause and switching out filament is the best strategy. JJ says he doesn't even pause, just makes the swap out quickly during an infill operation. Thanks again for bringing that ...

I laid a straight edge across the bed between towers ( so across the area that would dip if the bed was at fault) and probed with a piece of paper : my bed is flat on all three sides, no dips.

I worked on the calibration at 0,X,Y,Z some more and got more uniformity in those "high between towers" z values. They are now .254mm, .254mm, and .33 mm. I think if calibration was perfect they would all be equal at around .254mm, and so represent a mathematical firmware phenomena. Maybe the ...

I checked with the three square positions on each tower, plus I ran perpendicular measurements between towers, and sited down the Rostock top and base edges: no twist; everything amazingly square. Then rechecked calibration: it has not changed. Things are very close at x,Y,x, 0 but .25 mm, .33mm ...

Okay so I checked tower squareness to the bed glass and ran diagonal measurements between adjacent towers and sited down the printer faces from the top - and things are parallel and there appears to be no twist ( at least, if it does exist, it is below the level of observing it by any means I can ...

Nebbian, I didn't realize it was you above? How did you use wire in getting your twist out? If I do have to resort to the calculator, what values in my EEPROM correspond to " initial tower angular position corrections"? Is "endstop offset (steps)" in my EEPROM the same as "endstop corrections"?

In another thread (Does your Rostock Max v2 hold its calibration?) Nebbian advised that the "high between towers" issue is caused by either wrong steps/mm or more likely twist in the towers. Of significance is that Nebbian is speaking from experience with two builds. I am going to attempt to check ...

Thanks for the suggestion. I think my steps/mm are okay because my fan shrouds came out well, but I readily agree that tower twist is quite possible given the fact that the melamine is so subject to deformation and the design of how it holds the towers. The process of getting all tower angles 90 ...

I have EXACTLY the same Opp tower z height problem as PannDemic, right down to the numbers, and probe locations. Couldn't be any closer! My bed (borosilicate glass) is flat as can be, towers are square, parallel, and equidistant to the limit of my measuring abilities. One of my towers is 1 mm taller ...

After building my Rostock last month and printing the fan shrouds, I designed some large prints which will come close to maxing out the build area. So I decided to recheck calibration ( which I have been doing with feeler gauges). The first thing I did was go into the terminal to plug in the ...

I modified my RMax v2, moving the EZ extruder outside of a heated enclosed build chamber. As a result my ez extruder is very accessible and away from any moving parts. Has anyone tried to change filament in the middle of a print by cutting off the old filament nearmnthe extruder then just inserting ...

I cleaned up the diagram. There are four rings. Anyone not wishing to heat an enclosure can simply eliminate the fourth rung.

I had the exact same experience with the bed heat up at exactly the same temps with the PSU fan cycling on. I'm pretty sure it's the fan air blowing on the bed thermistor (which recovers the instant the fan stops). My upper base plate had a small circular hole in the dead center, through which I had ...

I have finished my combined chamber heating system (three 50watt halogen lights controlled by Inkbird thermostat) and fire safety system( another Inkbird, dpdt 8 pin IceCube relay, reset switch and 10amp fuse). The halogen system is down stream of the relay so that if temps go too high just above ...

After boning up on relays (ladder logic) I decided the @$15price was right to get a second Inkbird ( the first Inkbird controls my halogen build chamber heating lights). The safety Inkbird's sensor will be mounted just above or next to (?) the hot end Bowden tube connector and that Inkbird set to ...

Hi all, Now that I had my fun with gcode, and using this rudimentary knowledge, I did create that tower cal macro with Z= 0.2 and 20 second pause times at each location and ending in the build plate center; plenty of time at each location to get three feeler gauge thicknesses between hot end nozzle ...

I am new to 3D printing,have just built a new Rostock max, and am printing layer fan shroud as I write this. I lack enough electronics background to understand the above discussion; but can describe my temp behaviors. I have the red LCD board and had no issues with LCD display or knob directions etc ...