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Ha ha ha - yeah Geneb's manual didn't really clarify installation of the extruder if I recall

What about when you sand too much! I've got at least 2 arms with side-to-side play that I can see is causing some issues in my prints. I am looking for some ultra thin Delrin (Acetal) washers. Right now it looks like the thinnest I can get is 0.5mm thick which is way too much (I'll need to sand more...

Just a short update: * Purchased two 12" diameter pane glass from a local glass shop - seemed to work pretty good, I can print larger objects with no warping issues. * Hotend temps seem a bit off - cracking issues on single wall objects, cracking issues resolved when printing 5 or 10C hotter th...

Ok, I've had issues on my non heated beds where the blue tape would peel back with the warping piece! That's why I went out and paid $9 for a roll of 3" blue tape which has worked well. I guess it comes down to price. Blue tape is way cheaper than kapton tape (or similar products). I've heard a...

At work on my replicator, I print 100% of the time on Kapton tape (no abs slurry, no hairspray, none of that!). I know that PLA sticks to blue tape pretty well (even without heat!) but what about ABS? I've been printing now for about a week on Blue tape heated to 50c for PLA and 75C-80C for ABS. I'm...

Hmmm Squeaking arms? Nope that shouldn't happen! My Extruder squeaks, but never the arms.

I personally used Lithium Grease which is plastic-safe. Probably added too much, but I figured more is better than less!

I did have problems with cracking on my single wall 40x40x40mm test (no picts, battery was dead). Any suggestions how I can avoid that? If it's delaminating print a little hotter try in 5 degree increments, ABS will do this if you are printing at borderline temperatures, it's a bit of a balancing a...

I had that issue too - but it seems to have disappeared (though I should test again now that I've calibrated my printer completely). First thought when looking at that image - "Holy Delta Arm Blues Batman!" - It really looks like at least one of your delta arms is stiff - I suggest you pul...

You'd be amazed how fast these printers can be calibrated. Take a tour through the prints on my Rostock - you'll see my transition from sloppy models to pretty clean models. Just last night I fixed my extrusion multiplier and have printed a very nice 20x20x20mm cube at 100% infill. Very pleased with...

Polygonhell wrote:I set everything to 0.55 unless I'm trying to do something specific.

Thanks!

This really improved my print quality. I am using 0.80 for my first layer extrusion width because I don't have an entirely level build surface (need to add a piece of glass to this aluminum plate).

First off, see how that infill doesn't reach the inner walls. It absolutely looks like you have the delta arm blues. You need to remove your arms one by one and find the sticky spot and sand it down. You may have more than one. I only found 1 sticky arm on my printer, but it made a world of differen...

Thanks, I've been worried I didn't build it square enough after reading your other guy's experiences, I'm wondering what other issues I haven't discovered yet. This was just one print, going to try more tests this weekend. Now that I've gotten this far, I decided to use my micrometer to measure my a...

Holy smokes! That's a tight print. I was fairly pleased with mine, but yours is clearly better. I wonder what the difference is besides the thicker wall? Where do you go from here once you are satisfied with this calibration cube? I tried printing some other parts with these settings which resulted...

I personally haven't used an external thermocoupler to test the temps against what my thermistors are 'reading', but if plastic is extruding out the tip - temps might not be the issue. Did you remember to double your steps per MM for the extruder as well as X, Y, and Z? My very first print (the cube...

Can anyone list what they are using for the extrusion width's on the rostock max? All mine are set to 0

Pictures would be real helpful to see what the print looks like.

How stable are your cheapskates? Do they wobble at all? You should tighten the eccentric cams so they hold the cheapskate tight to the rail.

Looked at my G-code and here's what I saw: ; perimeters extrusion width = 0.94mm Looks like the extrusion width is set to almost 1mm! Where is this setting in Slic3r? What should it be set to? If you don't set it explicitly in the Print settings/Advanced tab, slic3r will calculate what it believes ...

Looked at my G-code and here's what I saw:

; perimeters extrusion width = 0.94mm

Looks like the extrusion width is set to almost 1mm! Where is this setting in Slic3r? What should it be set to?

Gotcha, I'll have to check my wall thickness settings when I get home - what tab is that option under? I have measured my extruder movements by marketing 50mm increments, and it was close enough (maybe a mm off, if that), the only thing I haven't done is measure the extrusion coming out of the hoten...

I personally skipped the Marlin firmware all together, and uploaded the polygonhell firmware to my Rambo. Haven't had any complaints

This is a big topic - many people (myself included) have this issue. The general consensus I've seen is that a gap is fine, as long as you have almost the same gap on all 3 sides. Mine had the same size gap roughly on all 3 sides. I didn't even bother trying to adjust or fix that gap, and my printer...

I am actually using glass on top of the aluminum. I do have a slight bow in my plate but the glass does seem to get rid of it. Depending on how significant the bow is you may also bow the glass based on how you retain the glass. My glass heats up fairly even. I would have to check again but I only ...

@Polygonhell, I'll check my g-code to see what it picked. It did print only 1 perimeter, and yes, the quality is VERY good. @MorbidSlowBurn, I set my slic3r nozzle diameter to 0.55 per polygonhell's recommendation. I measured 1.08, but that may be off. I am buying a Micrometer in an hour or two, and...

Hmm, you're right guys. It's Flatness tolerance is 0.015" - which would be 0.381mm. hmm, according to Mcmaster I'd get a flatness of 0.005" for anything over 3/4 - guess that won't work - 3/4 is probably too thick. Looks like I need Tool&Jig aluminum - anyone know a good source to buy ...

FYI I am currently contacting several waterjet vendors to see if I can get Mhackney's Onyx heat dissapator cut out of something more precise such as 1/4" thick MIC6 Cast Aluminum - Pricey, but flatness tolerance within 0.036. (If anyone is interested in one, send me a PM). Might try the borosil...