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cambo3d wrote:I misunderstood what you meant. read through mhackey post to change settings.

If you read my first post, I thought I tried that with defining the microsteps to 16. It didn't fix my issue. I'll re-read his posts, but I thought I did what he did

Here's another example of the problem

G1 Z0 F1200 sends the printer to this position - exactly 200mm above the print surface
[img]http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8520/8585 ... 1786_c.jpg[/img]

I cannot reach the bottom of the build surface once I home my printer

Attempting to fix what I think is a microstepping issue. When I enter G1 Z10 F1200 - I suspected this was a microstep issue (rambo 1.1) so i have changed the configuration.h file of polygonhell's firmware - changing #define MICRO_STEPS 8 to #define MICRO_STEPS 16 and updating the firmware, but it d...

Attempting to fix what I think is a microstepping issue. When I enter G1 Z10 F1200 - I expect the hotend to be approximately 10mm from the build surface. However instead it's near the middle of the printer! I suspected this was a microstep issue (rambo 1.1) so i have changed the configuration.h file...

I got my crimp connector from Amazon - here http://www.amazon.com/HT-225D-Cycle-Ratchet-Crimping-interchangeable/dp/B007JLN93S - it worked PERFECTLY (First time I built a RepRap i tried to crimp by hand with pliers and whatever universal crimpl tool i had. Needless to say I fried 2 control boards - ...

I'm still debating about how to do mine, thinking about some tiny wood screws to hold the faceplate in place. Bigger fish to fry first. [img]http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8247/8586196046_7f14dc5d70.jpg[/img] Assembly completed last night. Wiring completed, and first successful g28 (first try!) Few n...

I have them wired as you show in this post: http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php?f=42&t=1228&p=7035&hilit=cable#p7035 (last picture shows your wiring) When that failed, I figured what the hell and wired the other way, screen remained off, but once I connected the USB the piezzo to pla...

Ok, Soldered the smart adapter myself, and properly wired it (I think). But the screen is showing no life, even after installing the firmware by polygonhell. I'm assuming it should be on already. And it must be a connection somewhere on the adapter causing the issue? Or do I need to activate it in t...

cambo3d wrote:repetier host and repetier firmware are two different things.

use arduino 1.03 if your installing poly's repetier firmware then.

Gotcha, and I want to select the board "Mega 2560" to be specific, correct?

Thanks!

Wait, I just saw something about installing using repetier-host, is that true?

i'm trying to use Polygonhell's version of the firmware.....

Question? I know what port to use, but what board do i select? Current it's set to Azteeg X1. I'm pretty sure that's not what I want.

I'm running Arduino 1.0.1

Thanks!

After you've completed the install, you tighten up the eccentric cams (i used a 12mm wrench) to 'pull' tight the skate. rotate the top cam upwards, and the bottom cam downwards. If you watch you can see the gap close. After you've got a snug (but not too tight) fit, you tighten the nylon nut. It too...

Where did you mount the control board? The cables seem too short For anyone looking for the *only* post I have found that actually shows how to connect the lcd panel to the adapter. Here's the post by cambo3d (thanks dude) http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php?f=42&t=1228&p=7035&hilit...

Exactly where I ended up mounted mine. I'm in the process of final assembly, should be installing firmware tonight!

Where did you mount the control board? The cables seem too short

i drilled holes in it to match the holes in the lcd, then screw the faceplate on through the mount and into the lcd holes. If you do this just have to be careful not to split the angle standoffs, get them aligned as best u can so all your holes will line up. there are small 4-40 phillips screws inc...

Thanks, but how does the wood face plate mount? The holes that match up are covered by the standoff

And my lcd cables are too short - need to find a new mounting position

Finishing up the final assembly tonight, powering up tomorrow afternoon! I have been looking all over, but I still can't find any info on how to physically mount the LCD panel to the standoffs - I have seen pictures of the standoff's in their proper mounting position, and the lcd panel mounted, but ...

I am working with the acrylic version and lots of them really are tight. The nut absolutely has to have the sides lined up with the slots and sometimes it seems you would need a 45 caliber nut shooter to get them to go in! The long nose pliers worked the best if you ensured the flats were lined up....

Thanks, I'll check it out

81878.pdf If you go to Permatex and look up the material data sheet on Ultra Copper, you will see that it contains no copper. It is a high temperature silicone that offers resistance to heat before degradation, it does NOT conduct heat. Ah, my mistake, I assumed it had copper in it, again, it wasn'...

When I added my thermistor, I was concerned with the "fill the hole with RTV, and then insert the thermistor". In doing this I wondered if the thermistor was encased in RTV and would be insulated from the hot end. Haven't fired up my printer yet, so I don't know the effect, or if it makes...

[img]http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8247/8578132791_fb983097c3.jpg[/img] * Finished soldering everything to the Onyx, installed the aluminum heat spreader (purchased from mhackney's store) on top. Check that one off the list, woot! * Soldered my PCB adapter for the LCD screen. Bought a new variable t...

You mentioned vice grips to put (hex nuts) nylocks into the boards. PartsDaddy had a hip tip - to take needle nose and hold them at a 45 degree angle and roll them in. After doing that, putting them in was almost fool-proof. There were a couple that required a bigger tool but overall, it worked gre...

[img]http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8522/8575562657_f74477d0df.jpg[/img] Update on the build - haven't gotten much accomplished * For some reason I had to install my endstops in the position shown because the adjustment screws weren't hitting the end of the switch properly. * Ran wires for endstops t...