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OK, something is wrong, I guess, 'cuz I can't get over 200C. But........if two 6.8 Ohm resistors add up to 30 Ohms then that's what's wrong. Mine add up to 13.6 Ohms, which I think is right. Don't resistors in series equal the sum of all? How/why would/should I get 30 Ohms? So......I have to check v...

How do you guys "melt" the hot end? I cannot get mine above 200C or so no matter if I leave it full on all the time. Two 6.8 OHM supplied resistors, crimped AND soldered to both the series connection and connectors from the PS, supplied 12 volts from the 450 watt PS shipped with the H.1. I...

I have ONE hole between and parallel to the resistor holes for the thermistor, so I get that. Not sure about the 3/32" holes perpendicular to, and into, the resistor holes. Somebody took the time to put them there so I thought there might be some reason for them I can't see.

I bought one of the new type hot ends. How are we getting the resistors "tight" in the holes with no split to screw together now? Just wrapping with foil and sort of jamming them in there? What's the idea with the ~3/22" holes 90 deg. to the resistor hole? I looked around for some inf...

No voltage on the other end of the relay, this with nothing but 12vdc into the board, red led on, relay clicked when powered, no sensor, no output connected. Should I have 12vdc on the backend of the relay at this point? Wouldn't I NEED 12vdc on the back end to make it trip/click? So I wonder where ...

This thread has been dead for a while, but I have a problem with my Vellman's (Vellmen?). I have one built per instructions for hot end. When I turn it on, apply 12vdc to the input, the red led comes on, the relay clicks. Checking continuity, COM/NC changes to open, COM/NO changes to closed, as it s...

OK, cool. I'll just have to give it a go and see what Mach does with the goofy stuff. This is what the offending gcode looks like: M107 M190 P105 ; wait for bed temperature to be reached M104 P235 ; set temperature G28 ; home all axes M109 P235 ; wait for temperature to be reached No idea what M107 ...

I'm just getting an H1.1 going and am using a GnexLab controller for bed and extruder. I see the Slic3r gcode has gcodes for temp control. Is there any way to not have this output or do I have to search/replace the gcode file? Or will those gcodes just be ignored? I haven't actually tried to run the...

In your image you uploaded, see where it says sensor? Stick the thermistor down there, solder to the tiny plus and minus. If you look at the board and follow the traces, you'll see where the traces go. They go to the plus and minus pads next to the sensor location. You could also Kapton tape the the...

I bought an original H-1 and I bought an H1.1 upgrade on Indiegogo. I have the H1 assembled extruder sitting here and the H1.1 upgrade extruder parts. The parts look the exact same to me sitting here side by side 'cept new ones are black and old ones are clear, so I would simply follow the H1 assemb...

Has anyone come up with a slick way to get the resistors to fit other than the tapered cutting of aluminum foil? That seems pretty fiddly. For instance, how to hold it to get started, super glue the tabs to the resistor and wind 'er up, or what? It seems there should be some paste stuff that might s...

I can't do it. I browse to the jpg on my computer, clidk, nothing happens. Before the limit was changed I could browse/click and get a warning my file was too big, wanted to be under 6k. Somwone changed it, but now it says 2KiB, whatever that is (2K?) Now when I try, nothing. I guess the question ma...

I think Andy Wander mentioned, on Yahoo, that IF USING the SeeMe thermistor, R6 should be replaced with a jumper wire. I don't remember what anyone might have said about using the Velleman kit sensor. Anywhere, where to buy one of these? I have my hot end kit build with the R5 mod, now I need to bui...

The insulation on this 24 ga. wire varies a lot. I have a piece here that stretches forever and will hardly pull off with fingernails. Another piece, different brand, totally easy to strip with fingernails.

What were the resistor changes for using this for the hot end? And what change for using it with a heated bed? There might have been two resistor changes mentioned for heated bed, one with Velleman kit sensor, and one for the H-1 thermistor. OH, and where can I buy one in the US? I can't even find o...

OK, cool, cat5 it is. How do you guys strip the stuff? I have a stripper that goes down to 26 gage and it's TOO BIG to strip the cat5 I have that says 24ga on the jacket. Trying to strip it manually, with an xacto, is pretty tenuous!!

Are you guys using cat5 network cable to wire motors? Seems awful tiny for that, 24 ga., but it seems every pic I've seen has what looks like Cat5.

Tom

Well, it now says it's 2KiB, whatever 2 KiB is. Previously it said 6KiB, didn't it?

Now, when I browse, and hit submit, I get NOTHING, no error, and no avatar upload.

What do other forums do, this is the first one I've had balk at my 222k avatar?

Tom

Hey Michael, I would think a #10 washer would have to be drilled to fit the 1/4 screw/threaded rod where the idlers go. I think I have some small diameter 1/4" washers I can use, or I can make whatever I need on my lathe. Did you just use one bearing per idler, or 2? Did you use the plastic fla...

How to get an avatar small enough to post here? No matter what I try with Light Image Resizer, I can't get one small enough to upload. How are you guys getting such nice looking pics for your avatar and getting them to 6KB? My standard avatar always posts to other forums fine, I guess the forum soft...

The bearing I was remembering was R4AZZ, 1/4 x 3/4 x 9/32. I got some. No need for spacer 8mm to 1/4, same 3/4 OD as original plastic idler. Seems a better fit, I'll find out!

Thanks

Tom

Could someone post the bearings, the 1/4 ID ones, used to make idlers? Someone, somewhere, posted what type of bearing they used and I can't find it on Yahoo. Seems I remember them coming from VXB and maybe eBay. 9/32" wide if I remember.

Thanks,

Tom