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I just now noticed the last line. I'm looking into that now. ; SeeMeCNC 3D Printers ; General preferences G90 ; absolute coordinates M83 ; relative extruder moves ; Only remove ONE semi-colon for ONE printer configuration M550 P"RostockMAXv4" ; set printer name (ARTEMIS, RostockMAX, BOSSde...

My horizontal scale is off by 1.5%. I just finished updating to the latest 3.2.2 firmware and recalibrated the machine, but the scale is still off. I edited the arm length in config.g, but that doesn't help. The config-override.g still has the wrong lengths in there, but the comments say to not edit...

I am following the directions here: https://seemecnc.dozuki.com/Guide/DUET+Firmware+Update/97?lang=en I should have left well enough alone, but I was having problems with parts not printing to proper scale. So, I decided to update firmware to the latest. I am getting a G28, Error: Failed to enable e...

Apologies for the long delay. I didn't get a notice that someone replied.
I am printing with Hatchbox ABS+. Bed adhesion is not a problem for me any more.

What you need is a load cell or similar sensor that measures the force that is stopping the Bowden tube popping out of the collets at each end. The strain gauge built into the HE300 isn't suitable because, like the the Duet3D Smart Effector is is based on, it is designed to detect changes in force ...

Problem: My Cura projects have different settings based on the profile of the part I'm printing. If I turn on the fan at a low height, the plate cannot keep up with the loss of heat, and there is a much greater risk of part delaminating from the bed. So, for the lower heights, I restrict fan operati...

I'm assuming you've got either a 3.2 or an upgraded 3.0... If the blue light is on during printing, that's ok. It's being triggered by the current induced by the heated bed - you'll notice if the head moves far enough away, the led will go out. You /cannot/ run the calibration while the heated bed ...

Thanks for helping. I have the web page open now, and it's showing zero. If I press on the nozzle, it doesn't trigger, but if I tap on it, the blue light comes on, and the page shows 840 for an instant. If I disconnect the 10 row connector, software displays 1000. How would I disconnect the strain g...

I submitted a ticket yesterday, but nobody has responded to me. My SE300 strain gauge z-probe has gotten to where it's almost always triggered, making calibration almost impossible. It's always on during printing, and when completely still, sometimes remains on indefinitely. I've raised the trigger ...

Rmax V3.2. I can't seem to get the interior walls of a screw hole to attach properly. I've changed flow rate, line width, speeds and temperatures, but I think this basically comes down to a slicing problem. Does anyone have any ideas?

[img]https://i.imgur.com/F6ecays.jpg[/img]

Is the 95cm cable length appropriate for the Max V3?

Which cable length Nimble should I order for my Max V3.2?

I found some pictures from later in the build. I may not have it perfect, but it seems to be close.

I bought the kit to upgrade from 3.0 to 3.2. I must be an early adopter, because the instructions for building the whip are not complete. Does anyone have a picture they can send of their whip? I'm interested in each end.

I'm having a similar problem, but resetting all of the connectors, powering off, and disconnecting USB didn't help. I can still print, but the display is not working.

I am having the same problem. I've been printing for over a year, and today the display won't work. I re-flashed the Rambo, and reseated all cables. I can print from Mattercontrol.

70 views so far, but no suggestions?

What's the purpose of minimum and maximum fan speed? I'm not seeing any variation during prints, except for bridging fan speed. Near the end of my prints, the tip of the part is very small, and heat builds up, getting very mushy. If I am watching, I'll reduce my nozzle temp and turn on fans to max. ...

When I build my RMax, I recall there being some .1 pitch connectors that accepted a wire. No crimping required, just push in your stripped wire and done. What is this connector called?

I've been playing around with printer profiles, and quality and material presets to find the best way to support swapping nozzle diameters. I want to print a test object, but when I click on "add" a window should pop up allowing me to select my STL file. The main window behaves as though t...

I'm upgrading from an EZStruder to a BondTech extruder. There seems to be a bug in slicer or elsewhere where the first layer nozzle offsets are not consistent. I've read many posts about it, but no definitive answer. I have the same problem, which in my case doesn't really affect my parts quality th...

I'm trying to limit the torque of my extruder. I've been playing with M907 and M908. Throwing incantations at the wall, trying for 10% of full power, but getting anything other than standard behavior would help me zero in. I haven't had any luck knowing that any of the following are changing anythin...

I am still having problems, and the problem may be a strange batch of plastic filament in my case. I printed with some black, and for whatever reason, it plugged up my nozzle. Normally I print with Orange ABS+. Another symptom is the EZStruder would slip, causing under extrusion. So, I cleaned that ...

This is still a problem. When I print single parts, they are excellent quality. Multiple parts seem to have an occasional problem that kind of looks like under extrusion. I'm trying to add a picture, but it's not inserting after uploading.

I was hoping there would be something specific to the Rostock Max. I'm capable of firmware work, but would need to port the patch for each upgrade. In addition, I'd need to dig into the internals to find an available pin, and so forth. Maybe its not as difficult as I'm imagining, but if it were easy...