Welcome to the SeeMeCNC Community

3k lumens is a nice place to start, yep. And DLP only. You got it. Many people have used small Acer projectors, and that's what I have, but there are lots of companies that build cheap little projectors like that. As far as illumination goes, I'd stick with a traditional lamp instead of goofing with ...

My guess would be no. The injection molded arms are something that they can make and modify for in house production, while carbon arms are usually something that requires assembly on a jig and gluing. For the forces that printers see while they're working, the glass filled plastic is more than ...

Nice design! Smooth and clean. Well done.

Yep, it's pretty easy. Look up NanoDLP as the control program. It uses a RaspberryPi to generate the HDMI images to your projector, and sends GCode to your printer's control board via USB. You only need 1 motor output for the Z, two if you add a tilt mechanism. Most people use a "flex vat" with FEP ...

They're uninsulated, so you'd be wise to wrap them in Kapton, but I've used "knarps" from the BMX store before. They're the adjustable ball end from a bike brake cable.

[img]http://sheldonbrown.com/harris/images/knarps.jpg[/img]

[img]http://i.imgur.com/xjXbato.png[/img]

I believe that it's built into the new hotend board, but it's not been implemented in the firmware yet.

I have a Max V2 with upgraded arms from Brian. What would I have to do to add this capability to my machine? I assume I would need the accelerometer board and newer software in my Rambo... And then mount my head in that new board? Brynn The accel board and newer firmware are the bare minimums for ...

I wondered if the heater would pull ground through the metal can regardless of whether the fuse was open or not... That's what I was getting at.

This can happen if the Kapton tape on the thermal fuse isn't fully covering the fuse body where it mounts in the cold section of the hot end. If any bare portion of the fuse body comes into contact with the hot end, it will result in the effect you describe. That kind of a short doesn't bypass the ...

ROvermeyer wrote:I use one of these on my E3d and 713 and it works with auto calabration.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1156005

I made one for 50x15 blowers, too.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1975396

I've seen that switch panel before... Says something about zombies, right?

Nice looking prints!

Can you share a picture or two? If you don't have a rolling resistance or mechanical smoking gun, my guess is that you're overextruding, and the print head is hitting the previous layer hard enough to knock it out of whack.

These "smoothers" are just a band aid to fix a motion issue that people were having with a specific board/driver because they needed to drop the voltage. Only use them if you have the symptoms that they were created for, it's a fix not an upgrade.

Your extruder steps per mm calibration should adjust to a specific linear length of filament, and that should remain relatively constant. What you'll need to adjust in your slicer for every filament is the filament diameter itself.

Was there a flat spot on one of the wheels? I wonder if you'd feel a "tick" if you ran the carriage up and down by hand, or if the line in your print would have happened again higher up on the print? (one wheel circumference higher)

barry99705 wrote:Is that a hiwin linear rail??

Not sure of the manufacturer, but it's definitely a rail, yep.

I hadn't seen anyone bring this up on the forum yet (not that I looked very hard), but the new pictures from SeeMeCNC have been making the rounds on FaceBook... Looks like we might see a new printer for Black Friday! [img]https://scontent-ort2-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t31.0-8/23456509_10105156917023948 ...

There are a lot of droid builder clubs among the guys in the 501st and other communities... I know that the BB-8 club on Facebook has some of their files uploaded to the FB group's page instead of hosting them on a sharing site. You may check get lucky if you dig through the files in the equivalent ...

Let's give this embed thing a try... [youtube]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iev2TkH6bdI&feature=youtu.be[/youtube] [youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iev2TkH6bdI&feature=youtu.be[/youtube] [youtube]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iev2TkH6bdI[/youtube] [youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v ...

+1 for moisture.

Printing with PLA? Turn off retraction and see what happens.

Don't force anything. Insert improvised removal tool in the rectangular slots, and if the wire doesn't release, try pushing the wire in and then releasing it.

[img]http://i.imgur.com/3PwDdFE.jpg?1[/img]

Yep. A pin, small screwdriver, paperclip, etc.

Check the accelerometer mounting hardware to make sure that you're not shorting anything on the board. What happens if you plug your HE280 back in? Is the wiring harness between the machine and the hotend new? If so, make sure that your thermistor wiring is right. The circuitry on the accel board ...

Ahhh..... If you want a cheap one, Harbor Freight sells a $20 multimeter that comes with a temperature probe