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So I checked a few things: Removed the whip entirely and checked the continuity of each wire in the whip and they were all 0 Ohms. Connected the whip to the board and checked the voltages at the 10 pin connector between Red/Black and Red/Green. Both were 3.3V Busted out my power supply and put 3.3V ...

The blue LED should only come on when the strain gauge in the PCB is detecting a force being applied to the nozzle. It may also come on solid when the hot end is active as the magnetic field generated by the heater cartridge confuses the hell out of the strain gauge circuit. (this is ok) There ...

So...I went with the SE300. Got it assembled, connected everything up to the Duet, switched on the Duet and...one little blue LED lights up on the SE300 for about 2 seconds and then goes dark. No fans, no LEDs... I'm sure that it's just something dumb that I've done. I've checked the wiring vs the ...

Do you mean these? How do I attach them to the the Delta Smart Effector ? The CTC distance of the balls is 55mm on the DSE vs 50mm on the SeeMeCNC parts. The CTC distance of the mounting holes on the carriage adapter that comes with the DSE is 20mm vs 24.12mm on the SeeMeCNC molded Cheapskates. Are ...

I'm looking to upgrade (again) my Rostock Max V1. I'm not even sure I should still refer to it as a V1 though since about the only thing left from the original is the chassis and OG servos. Right now it has: Duet controller E3D V6 hot end Molded cheapskates Ball Cup arms New Power Supply Servo ...

I'm sure I'll need luck in no small portion. Replacing the power supply is pretty much the first step in a major overhaul. Once I replace the power supply, I'll be able to print the parts I need for the other steps. Power Supply replacement Upgrade to Duet/Panel Due Rewiring (clean up my messy ...

geneb wrote:To ME that constitutes a sagging condition. If it was my printer, I'd replace the power supply.

g.

Thanks, it will be here Saturday.

I measure 12.2V with the Rambo powered on but no heaters or servos.

I have a Rostock Max V1 with the extruder and filament roll hanging off the back of the machine's base. I have upgraded to the EZ-Struder, but I'd now like to move everything to the top of the machine and run the extruder in through the top as is done on the V2, V3. There's nothing wrong with the ...

I measured the voltage at the power in terminals on the Rambo while the hot end and the bed were heating up and read 11.52V - 11.68V, the extruder and X,Y,Z servos were off the entire time. I don't know if that constitutes "sagging", but it was less than 12V.

It actually could be the power supply. Start it heating the hot end and bed and then check the 12v rail to see what the voltage is. I'd also recommend checking and tightening all the screw terminal connections on the RAMBo board. g. I will check, but I don't understand how the power supply would ...

https://imgur.com/gallery/9UzFr

Typical results.

I have noticed some erratic behavior from my Max V1 and I'm concerned that it may be the RAMBo, but I'm not 100% certain. It has powered up seemingly OK, but been non-responsive to commands from the dial/button on the LCD. Re-bootoing the printer by switching it off, then on has fixed the problem ...

Printing with PLA? Turn off retraction and see what happens. No, I'm printing with ABS. I have been using MatterSlice from inside MatterControl and until now have always gotten good results. I did try looking at the G-code from MatterSlice last night. I didn't see anything that stood out, but I ...

I am having a problem printing a certain file and I'm not sure what the problem is, or even how to find the problem. I have a modified MAX v1 and I'm using Matter Control w the Repetier firmware. Though I'm not sure that the machine matters, since I can pring other parts with no issues. What happens ...

That worked, thank you

I'm not 100% sure what's going on. I have a Rostock Max V1 with a few mechanical upgrades. I recently re-flashed the firmware as well after changing a few parameters. Anyway, now I notice that my printer "Kills" itself (LCD displays "KILLED" instead of "ROSTOCK MAX OK") if it's left idle for a ...

The first things I'd update are the arms and carriages. It'll make it a whole new machine. :) g. So far, so good. I have the arms and carriages installed along with some Astrodyne dampers for the servos. I haven't re calibrated and re-zeroed it yet, but it's soooo smooth and quiet just moving it ...

As usual, it seems that there's more to consider that what I'd thought about initially. I'm really looking to improve print quality and convenience . I have some vertical banding issues (nothing catastrophic, but still...). There also are some defects that seem to be tied to either rough spots in ...

So, I've got a V1 and I'm considering some improvements...I have made a few minor upgrades: EZ Struder, cartridge heater, fans, firmware, threaded thermistor, Easy disconnect Hot end Nothing major, really. Now, I'm considering one of the following: 1. Upgrading to the HE280 Hot End along with the ...

Thanks! It's now moving like it should.

... The other change in th 0.91 firmware, is that after homing the axis back off the limit switches by 5mm THEN get set to 0 so you'll have about 5mm less ZMax when you done. Does this mean that the 0 position is set at the top and Z_Max is at the build plate? Also, my machine has: 20T pulleys - I ...

OK, so I don't remember the exact reason why (it was sometime before the sun came out in spring), but I got the bright idea to upgrade my RAMBO to the Repetier 091 firmware...and it's gone poorly. I used the firmware linked to in the downloads section. (It seems the software for V1 and V2 printers ...

Are you running 0.91 or 0.92 firmware? You posted elsewhere that you had uploaded 0.92

You could try manually upping KI, which is the PID term that the controller uses examine the difference between the temperature history and the setpoint, the longer the system runs under temp, the greater this gain becomes. Increasing KI tends to eliminate steady state error in a system. However, if ...