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My strategy is just use a 24v for the bed, hotend (with a 24v heater cartridge), and steppers, but pair the fans, LEDs, whatever, to get them to 12v each. ie put two 12v fans in series so they're getting an appropriate voltage.

I caught a minute of your stream of it printing, and then when I read that it failed at over 90% I literally winced...totally been there!

I've never had good luck with those long supports from meshmixer, they always fall over. I'd try a slicer that lets you customize where you're putting supports, either simplify3d (if you have cash burning a hole in your pocket) or craftware. Print the hole thing on a raft, put the supports where you...

Thanks, I think you talked me into it!

I've been running my RMax V1 with the original cheapskates and tricklaser arms for a couple years now, and the new molded carriages and ball arms look pretty tempting. The other option I'm considering is magnet arms, but that would be a little more expensive, and the plug and play nature of the seem...

What material are you printing with? And what speeds/temps?

I've had decent results with gluestick on glass (as hot as you can get it, 100+c), but even then I have to use a very wide brim to keep things stuck down. And it's still basically impossible to print large things with high infill, at least without a heated chamber.

I've had good luck with putting the plate in the freezer, PLA prints pop off on their own and I haven't had the glass break yet.

Looks good!

I've been very happy with this: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:744759" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; ...it's an ezstrude-ish design that I remixed from Nylocke's extruder. You'll need a 5:1 geared nema 17 motor, a bowden fitting like the one that came with your prometheus...

Are you using the stock EZstruder? I have a prometheus, and the ezstruder didn't have enough torque, causing it to jam with PLA. I switched to a geared motor, problem solved.

If someone can show me a side-by-side photo of something printed with Duet-dc42, and then the exact same object printed with Smoothie, and there is a genuine difference that I don't need a 400 power microscope to see, I will reconsider porting dc42's method over to Smoothie. This isn't a side-by-si...

Here's the motor that I'm going with for a similar setup: http://www.omc-stepperonline.com/gear-ratio-271-planetary-gearbox-dual-shaft-nema-11-stepper-11hs120674d1pg27-p-263.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; It's also a 27:1 geared Nema 11, 120 grams, and only $32. Caveat...

A note about the Prometheus hotend: when I installed mine I had a few issues with PLA, until I switched to a geared extruder. I just needed the extra torque, haven't had a jam in a few hundred hours of printing since.

Build a v2 before you continue to go on about how bad the melamine frame is. g. V2 is probably much better than a V1 but melamine is not a desired material for a frame of a precision machine. simply moving the machine from one work space to another and it needs re-calibration. I have a V1, which I'...

I had this same thing happen when my power supply was failing. I don't know if there are other possible causes, but a new power supply solved it for me.

Thanks Xeno, I never thought of using PM it does have the advantage of my not looking like an idiot asking questions that to most have obvious answers but if the subject line is well picked a public question and reply will benefit future new users. for now I come down on the side of asking in publi...

I've always used hairspray for bed adhesion, and it's been great.

I had this problem once with a plugin for a different slicer, it assumed I was using relative extrusion instead of absolute.

I'd love to get in on a set of arms too...been using carbon fiber with traxas ends, and they're definitely not as nice as magnets

Another note on the possibility of it being your power supply...what you're describing of it powering off during heatup and then being able to turn it back on later is exactly what happened when my power supply was failing. You might try blowing some compressed air through it to clear out any dust t...

You may also have blown out your power supply.

Also, if you're trying to scan clear or translucent surfaces (like a helmet with a visor) you can use masking tape to cover the surface. Takes some prep work, but works like a charm and cleans up easily.

I haven't observed that you need a geared motor for using an all-metal hotend. Maybe for very high print speeds? I've put 2km of mostly ABS through E3D V6 and Volcano hot ends using the stock EZStruder, and my only problems have been with ninjaflex and over-retraction of PLA. Neither of those were ...

I'm very fond of my carbon fiber arms, but they were replacing the plastic arms on a rostock max V1, so I can't comment on the stiffness of the newer V2 arms. Also, modding the extruder to work with a geared motor is a must if you're switching to an all metal hotend, you'll need the extra torque.