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Duet Web Control displays the version numbers on the Settings page. You can also get the main firmware version using M115 and the WiFi firmware version from the M122 diagnostic report. Gotcha, I can't get Web Control to open at all (hence this thread) but will try the gcode commands at the screen.....

Which main and WiFi firmwares are you running? 2.02 main and 1.23 WiFi are recommended. Main firmware 2.02 retries automatically if the WiFi connection is lost. I have to assume I have the latest, I just got my printer last week and it was built by SeeMe themselves... I can find... Panel Due versio...

I didn't realize until printing again, that there is another loud fan down there, the power supply fan. Let's see what we can do about it! But, later, I have so much to do...

FAN UPDATE 2: Doh, didn't realize until well into a print that there is another fan in there, I suppose the Power Supply fan itself, that also sounds like a hairdryer once it's going. I'll bet that one is much harder to get to. Dang.

I have not tried this myself, but, what about combining supports (I think the experimental Tree Support type in Cura has been received fairly well) with a *raft*? the raft would basically give your tiny edge a bigger footprint. But, I think you'd have to go zero gap between the raft and supports to ...

Last time I had my V4 drop out on me (it's happened a couple times) I hooked up the USB and sent a couple M552s over from YAT and that seemed to help wake it up. But it's not working now. I'm printing from the front panel still, but really like to monitor from my laptop. m552 s0 ok<LF> m552 s1 Turn ...

OK maybe I'll start this forum off with what i just did for my V4 last night, mentioned in a troubleshooting thread. Andy suggested this fan for quietness since I had asked for options to quiet down the hairdryer noise in the base of the V4, just about my only complaint with the unit! Noctua A6x25 f...

FAN UPDATE: Noctua A6x25 FLX recommended by Andy at SeeMeCNC. Arrived yesterday. It has a 3 wire pigtail, but I used the connector adaptor for a 4-pin header (which only uses red and black, leaving the other 2 pins unconnected) - I cut off that connector and stripped the wires back a bit, and just s...

Oh the PLA warping seems to happen when I print flat parts or parts that need to have a flat bottom - in this case they are little pick boxes and I print multiples at a time. The corners, even though they are rounded in all three directions, just like to pull up. Happens on my buildtak sheet in my D...

The other way to change the Z=0 height is to alter the Z parameter (trigger height) in the G31 command in config.g The advantage of doing it this way is that it will be unaffected by running auto calibration. Increasing the Z parameter (or if it is negative - as with nozzle-contact probes - making ...

Thanks man. I'm beginning to think you're the only other person on this forum. LOL. Hope I'm not annoying with all the questions! (Side note: yesterday tried to print a big batch of flat parts and every single one of them warped to hell. PLA, print at 200, bed at 60. Trying less fan on the bottom la...

My V4 prints nice and quiet, but the fan in the base is super loud. Soooooo: - easy to replace with something like a Noctua? what voltage etc? - can it be run at a lower speed for less noise or is that a bad idea? Just curious since it's in the main living space of my apartment. Side note: It makes ...

I'm Dave - a govt contractor by day and a designer/illustrator/maker/geek/musician by night. Got into 3D printing just over 3 years ago - my now ex-wife bought me a little XYZ DaVinci Jr machine and it's taken off from there. I still have that machine albeit not working at the moment, plus I have a ...

Thanks geneb - so once that line is edited, will the Baby Z Steps field on the web interface then go back to 0 or would it just say -0.25 by default when I open it?

I would contact support@seemecnc.com regarding the bed tilt - it shouldn't be there. g. I did that and they helped me confirm it's not a tilted bed, just an imprecise folding of the sheetmetal of the case; apparently much like a jeep, the sheetmetal is just there for looks and the frame is all that...

So after a couple of prints it looks like -0.25mm is where I want my Z adjust. But how do I keep that without having to adjust it during each print?

Thanks!

Well, I thought there shouldn't be any tilt myself but yeah... EDIT: took the glass off again and either the heatbed underneath is tilted, or one side of the platform sheetmetal is bent up at the edge along the glass. Can't tell. Put the glass back on and measured - The glass is 1.12mm below the pla...

I have successfully done this on a different Bowden machine by catching it just *before* the roll ran out. I cut the end square (not angled) just before the extruder, swapped the roll and cut the new end square as well, and chased the end of the first with the second until it was through the extrude...

Aha! One down! I had set the baud on the screen to 115k because that's what the instructions say to set on the YAT interface. doh. Thanks!

Sorry for all the initial threads here but I need to get up and running with this guy quickly... Lots to print, short on time, you know the drill, heh. Right out of the box, the touchscreen seemed to be fine - I hit Home, it homed the axes; I hit Macros, it showed a list of available macros, etc. Bu...

So, when I got my V4 in the mail today (RTP, no special software or firmware or anything), I took the glass off to look at it and get the test wheel off, then put it right back on. Don't know if it was before, but the glass is visibly tilted, a couple mm above the case on one side and flush or sligh...

Well, it's printing the Benchy pretty well, bit of stringing and the glass bed is visibly higher on one side than the other; We can close this thread I suppose and I'll start a new one about the bed leveling error I got and the fact that the touchscreen is still pretty much blanked out (everything s...

WAAAAAIT - i'm calling this one tentatively resolved. I dove into the gcode spec and found the command to forget the wifi networks - that brought back the machine's "OK" response! Then I reset the wifi using single quotes to force the lowercase letters to stay lowercase, and it worked! I d...

Side notes about the setup BTW: - Guide just says "connect with YAT (etc)" and tells you the baud rate to set, but literally nothing else about what the YAT settings should be. - My machine came RTP, but no idea what the blue wingnut type thing or the little flexy items that look vaguely l...

Emailed this to Steve and co but maybe you guys can help: Got my RTP V4 today! Annnnnd nothing. - I downloaded and connected with YAT. I had to just trust that it got the right COM port, no others were apparently available. - I got to and through these steps: "Send the following Gcode to the pr...