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I finally measured my machine. I loose about 5/8 of an inch of Z-axis travel due to the horizontal bar I installed across the top. If I ever decide it matters, there are alternative ways to mount the bar that would not decrease my Z at all.

Or maybe I should dive into the code and fix the RepRap-style so it resets the acceleration appropriately after a rapid move.

Teacup has several options for acceleration. Here's a snippet of config.h where acceleration is configured: /** \def ACCELERATION_REPRAP acceleration, reprap style. Each movement starts at the speed of the previous command and accelerates or decelerates linearly to reach target speed at the end of t...

Fiero2M6 wrote:I've been thinking about adding a top brace. How much does the brace limit your z-axis travel?

I'm not sure, exactly, but not a lot. I'll measure it and let you know.

It does make it impossible to replace the extruder and hot end with a Dremel tool, however.

I printed a Rocket Shot Glass http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:9916 RocketShot.jpg It looks corrugated because I don't have the acceleration figured out yet. It accelerates and decelerates for each line segment that makes up the circle of the body, and when it does, the extrusion gets wider. It also...

I solved my Z-axis problems. First I replaced the bent leadscrew with a fresh piece from the hardware store. As I was re-assembling after that, I realized that my Z-axis guide rods were about 1/4" closer together at the top than they were at the bottom. I believe the belt tension on the x-axis ...

I finally measured my motor drive current. I was only driving about 100 mA per phase. Knowing that, I'm surprised it worked as well as it did. I turned the current up and printed the nickel calibration again. It looks much better now, but the nickel doesn't fit and there's some extra blobbies. I don...

This cube I designed myself, so I know for certain it was 20x20x20. I fixed the Z height issue last night and was able to print an actual cube. Now I can see that I have other issues. There's some backlash in X & Y because I don't have any belt tensioners, yet. cubeFront.jpg The waviness in the ...

My H1.1 made its first prints last night. First ever print looked like this: firstprint.jpg After that I figured out that the extruder pinch rollers weren't tight enough and they were slipping. I tightened them up and ran it again. secondprint.jpg Not bad. Not bad at all. But wait... That was suppos...

Yes.
That's why I made sure to order spares with my H1.1 kit.

I bought a DMM with a thermocouple just for that purpose. According to it, the Velleman holds temperature within about +/- 5° C. I held the thermocouple against bare metal in the hole opposite the one the thermistor is in. Unfortunately the thermistor popped out of its hole rather easily after I got...

I got my hot end assembled and decided to test it. I hooked up the Velleman, stuck a thermocouple into the hole opposite the one I assembled the thermistor into, and cranked it up. One quarter turn gave me about 100 deg C, according to my thermocouple meter, Half turn gave me about 150 C, 2/3 turn g...

I broke down and assembled my hot end with tinfoil and red RTV. The metal filled epoxy just seems too permanent. I followed a tip I read somewhere that suggested dipping the full length of the resistor and thermistor leads into the tube of RTV so they are insulated electrically. Once that had set up...

How did that Mona Lisa turn out, anyway?
I was watching the stream live when it was running, but I don't recall seeing the finished run.

I've been wondering about the RTV Silicone commonly used for gluing the resistors and thermistor in place on the hot end. The Permatex Copper stuff that is commonly available is able to withstand high temperatures, but it isn't intended to be thermally conductive. You're basically placing a layer of...

I recently assembled my H1.1 and I will add another vote for more pictures.

I have my H1.1 assembly mostly complete. I have motors mounted and it is moving under its own power. I'm seeing 2 problems, which may or may not be related. First, the 2 pieces of threaded rod for the Z-axis lead screws were not perfectly straight. There's just enough bend to cause visible wobble of...

Nice video. Thank you!

I have caliper envy.

I have yet to assemble mine. I was surprised to find that there were no grub screws in the motor pulleys.
My steppers have flats on the shafts. Would it be worth my time to drill and tap the pulleys for grub screws, or is a press fit sufficient?

I just assembled mine. I'm pretty sure the difference, besides color, is that the new one is made from a stronger material. Tip: Attach the stepper motor BEFORE assembling the rest. Otherwise you'll have to take it apart again when you realize that the drive gears obscure one of the stepper mounting...

I'm close to pulling the trigger on ordering an H1.1 hardware kit. I was wondering if anyone has compiled a list of recommended spare parts I might want to order at the same time. I've seen teflon tube mentioned a lot. Are there other hot-end parts prone to melting? Fess up, 'yall. Which parts have ...

I'm makin' steps! I got Teacup RepRap firmware compiled and running on an Arduino. I got Pronterface talking to Teacup. I got 3 steppers wired up to Pololu drivers, and the drivers wired to the Arduino. Also got Slic3r talking to Pronterface. Today I got it all playing together and made the motors s...

I'm the guy who just sent all his money to the tax man, so can't afford to order an H1 kit yet. I'm working on it, tho. I'm kinda doing it Johnny Cash style. One Piece at a Time. I got some stepper drivers and a power supply last month. This week I'm getting the stepper motors. After that, some misc...