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After fine tuning everything else, increasing jerk can also help on issues with corners (note: increasing it too high will cause other issues though). The other option is to decrease the print speed.

It's a balancing act for sure. I've been able to do small parts in ABS with a bed temp as low as 60-70° when the hairspray/UHU (I alternate between them) was holding well.

Sidenote: I'm printing a 3DR so I can put all my spare parts to use and hopefully speed up development if I do work on formalizing a true calibration.

When I did it manually I would do an endstop and delta radius before I'd process the 13 test points. There were times I would have missed the transformation into an elliptical paraboloid if I didn't. My process took a long time because I'd do the endstop and delta radius adjustments often, and I als...

I just replaced the hotend with microswitch that sat in the same holder. What I want to avoid is implementing a least squares fit function for paraboloids on any of the firmwares, although smoothie would be my first choice if I were to do it there. All I need are the Z-Height of 13 points on the bed...

Is there any interest in a 3rd party application for bed levelling? I was able to correct several things with a custom smoothieware firmware and some mat lab curve fitting to improve my bed levelling to a max of .015 difference. I'll post my methodology at some point for the impatient, but here's my...

The 0.9 motors I use have a limit of 2.4 Amps. I wrote some code into the smoothieware to test movement repeatability with the z-probe, and I didn't get it where I was rarely missed steps until I put the full 2.4 A on them. This also required moving from a smoothieboard to the Azteeg X5 so the drive...

Maybe consider an epoxy coating on the selected wood, they make non-slip / textured epoxy coatings. Some simple ones would be the floor ones intended for use at places like a marina, such that it has to be durable for foot traffic and resiliant to the environment without becoming a slip hazard.

they've done the magnet stuff with nail polish. it's like an etch-a-sketch until it dries in place

I already had a microswitch like this http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BGC ... UTF8&psc=1" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
laying around. It fits perfectly into the top piece of the E3D printable mount.

I'm going to finish mine out and share it, the other one doesn't work for me.

And I tried that version and I don't like it, I'm going to just finish mine out, post it, and at least know it works for me lol.

Arg... Since they reworked all forum access (ie if it mentions forum in the address it's blocked) I missed that post that wolfmanjm did the marlin implementation of the tower calibration.... and I noticed it just after I just posted I was about to finish up the exact same thing tonight. *sigh* Testi...

....and then I read it's already implimented..... http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php ... =90#p43631" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

.... Well, now I'm going to go cry in a corner for being a month behind the rest of the world.

Hey guys, I just wanted to post I've got a 90% complete implementation of the marlin style calibration. I don't agree with all the aspects of the methodology and plan to test other variations to improve it, but for now I have it changing each tower's radius (distance to center) and angular coordinat...

Thanks Brent. I'm thinking about picking up an air filter too just to try to do *something* since this thing will be sitting in my dining room. (apartment life) I think this is really important for people to know about! it seems you don't want to mess around with UFPs (ultra-fine particles) It's al...

As further proof why 'jerk' is so hard to define exactly, it seems Smoothieware implemented it's 'jerk' setting based on this method. http://onehossshay.wordpress.com/2011/09/24/improving_grbl_cornering_algorithm/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; It's abuse of nomenclature li...

You identified the most common issues already. You can take the belts and arms off and re-check the cheapskates. (sucks after you get everything tensioned just right) You can check the hotend and make sure it doesn't have any play in it in reference to the effector. You can lower the jerk setting an...

It isn't impossible for it to be the cell phone, just unlikely. Still, I remember I've had plenty of speakers pick up cell phone interference right before a call came in. I If it is the cell phone causing the issue, I believe it would not be the only factor involved, just the one that is the trigger...

Great repeatability, getting the bare sensors themselves is perfectly fine if you don't mind having to use software endstop adjustments. The plus side is the bare Hall effect sensors make it ~$3 upgrade (add more for the magnets) vs the $30+ for sensor boards with trim. You wire the three legs of th...

If I had an Ideal setup, I would have a Rambo running whatever firmware I was working on and have it's outputs interfaced back into the computer so I can have the Rambo controlling a modeled Delta printer. Allowing you to trigger sensors in a simulation using the actual electronics, with recorded de...

Sounds really neat. Keep in mind, depending on the scale you plan on printing you can get very fine layers ( 20-50 micron layers have been achieved). With FDM you typically squish the material coming out between the surface area of the nozzle and the previous layer (or bed) so you get a wider trace ...

Measurements will help you get off to a better start, and if they were all taken into account in the software you could get more accurate movement. Get them wrong and it will easily get worse though. Endstop switches are also really easy to change to magnetics, and if you get the Hall effect sensor ...

I don't see any inherent benefits that other solutions provide beyond the mounted microswitch. I agree ease of installation, repeatability, cost are definitely important factors, but without any added functionality of other sensing solutions, it makes them interchangeable and to me a minor part of t...

I had to add in the pins for the endstop max on my board as well. Where it says 12-24V , that is the power in for your motors, so you'll likely want to use the 12V power wires that were for the steppers there. You want to put the 24V for the bed on the (my recolored picture) magenta power-in, for th...