Welcome to the SeeMeCNC Community

Hey all,

So I know a lot of you are unhappy with your Steve's extruder, I happen to prefer it and would like another. Anyone want to sell theirs?

My preferred method would be through eBay, but I'm open to other ideas. Let me know how much you want for it!

Thanks,
Rob

Hey guys, So I thought I had dual extruders working, but am having some weird problems whenever I have dual extruders active in a print. Basically, the print will be fine for a few layers (with both extruders successfully extruding) and then, the printer behaves as if it ignores all subsequent z hei...

Hey Octavio, Get it sorted out yet? I had an issue with similar "symptoms." My print would start out fine, then somewhere along the way, and not always at the same point, it seemed as if the plastic wouldn't flow out fast enough. Like you, I found pushing it with my hand during the process...

Hey GD,

If you still suspect that one cheapskate is too low, maybe you just need to adjust the end stop on that one tower. Turn the endstop adjustment screw clockwise to effectively raise the Cheapskate in relation to the other two, or turn the screw counterclockwise to lower the Cheapskate

I figured it out on my own, a head's up worth knowing about: The issue is with dual extruders and having any amount of "Lift Z" in Slic3r>Printer Settings>Extruder1. Settings that to zero solves the problem. Bummer, the Lift Z is needed to prevent some "ooze" issues with having t...

Thanks GD! So I'm running into a different issue with Repetier/Slic3r and dual extruders, this time regarding support material. When I set the support material to extruder2, Slic3r does this funky thing where it generates support material starting below the virtual print bed. If I set it back to ext...

Hey guys,

Also just got dual extrusion going thanks to you all! Has anyone figured out how to turn off the annoying chirping from the LED panel piezo that happens on each extruder change during printing? Hehe, hopefully that makes sense to someone!

Hey Guys, When countersinking the laser etched holes in my Rostock Max kit, I started out using an Exacto blade and peeling up the layer of melamine as suggested, which was a pain, when more than 3/4's of the way through the build I discovered the absolute EASIEST way to do the "countersinking&...

I started out using an Exacto blade and peeling up the layer of melamine as suggested, which was a pain, when more than 3/4's of the way through the build I discovered the absolute EASIEST way to do the "countersinking", and you can do it as you go along with the intended screw in hand! So...

Hey mhackney, I just switched from Slic3r to KissSlicer with your settings on my RostockMAX and OOOOOoh MAN! It's like I have a totally different printer!!! I had been playing around for weeks with settings in Slic3r and hadn't gotten prints even half as good, and was about to suspect that my RoMax ...

Hey guys, they changed that part number on the belts, will this one work?

A 6Z16MC060 at
https://sdp-si.com/eStore/Catalog

Well, I basically found the answer to my own question in Slic3r, Filament Settings, enable cooling (even though I don't have a fan yet). However, I would like the ability to specify the amount of time myself.

Cheers

Hey guys, Can a person set a minimum print time per layer in Slic3r? I'm hoping to force a minimum time so each layer has enough time to cool. The reason I ask is because when I have very small "peaks" at the very top of a model, say a 1/4" boss, where that boss is the only thing prin...

Thanks guys! DS, that makes total sense, got it, will check out the printer settings within Slic3r itself.

Cheers,
Rob

Thanks guys, the reason I ask is I've patiently searched the forum as well as YouTube, and can't find any videos of duals in action on A Rostock Max. I was hoping to get visual "proof" before spending company time on it!

Hey guys, thanks for the replies! John, I have a settings screen like Jim posted, there are no places for X and Y sizes, only radius and height, where I have 140 and 355 (25.4 X 14), which if I understand correctly, should be the same as your settings as far as the horizontal size is concerned. Shou...

So John and Julie from SeeMeCNC sent me a replacement power supply, same brand but different model as requested. Been printing for hours with no issues! The bed heats up reasonably fast, about the same amount of time as the hot end takes. A tip here : use a heat gun to boost the warmup time of the O...

Hey guys, So I'm printing a frisbee-like part that is 9.25" diameter by .5" high, and Slic3r is telling me it doesn't fit into the print area. I've centered it and dropped it, still no luck. Only when I scale it down to 75% does Slic3r agree. I thought the Rostock Max had an 11 inch diamet...

Hey guys, I bought the Rostock Max excited to know that the Rambo board was dual extruder capable. So I've searched through the forum and haven't come across detailed info/instructions on dual extruders mods. Can anyone point me in the right direction or maybe offer new information? I was hoping to ...

Thanks guys! Jim, thanks for sharing, it's good to know that I'm heading in a direction where our Romax will hopefully be reliable. We will be using it daily in office! For now I'm printing out our first attempts by gently preheating the glass bed with a heat gun, though our current PSU won't heat b...

Thanks all, For now, how do I wire a separate Rambo controlled PSUs for the Onyx? I'm sure I could figure it out if there are separate power in pins for the hot end and the Onyx, I don't have the Rostock in front of me at the moment, can't remember Or, what if I change the number of paralleled power...

Hello all, Ok, good news before the bad. I got my Rostock Max all calibrated, with the hot end and Onyx bed heated to operating temp first. I did all of the Repetier setup, even got the hot end primed (did the 300mm extruder priming). Woohoo can't wait to FINALLY print!! Bad news is, I've discovered...

Hey Gene, So I figured out who's information was correct for the new yellow wired stepper motors on my own: John Oly's configuration from an email today for pins 1,2,3,4: RED GREEN YELLOW BLUE: wiring it this way results in INVERTED xyz stepper motion YOUR way from your 2nd edition draft: YELLOW BLU...

Hey Gene, The draft of the 2nd edition assembly manual you kindly offer me conflicts with the below (or above as it may be). Below it says the wiring pattern for new steppers is 1-red 2-green 3 yellow 4 blue, and in the draft it says yellow blue red green. John Oly just emailed me and says it's red ...

Hey guys, Thank you VERY much for all your help and supportive thoughts, and even more for your expertise/experience! --Geneb: thanks for the awesome draft manual. Reading that made me realize (assuming that my gut instinct is you have the most accurate information) that the new yellow wires stepper...