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kbob wrote:The delta arms look very different. It will be interesting to see what they're like.

Now that John has posted some higher resolution photos, I see that the delta arms are exactly the same, except (a) they're shorter, and (b) they're blue.

Nevermind.

Will you offer variants with other countries' flags? A Canadian model would be nice...

Configuration info:

Rostock MAX purchased 5/19.
RAMBo 1.1 board.
RepetierMAX firmware from github.com/SeeMeCNC/RepetierMAX.
Repetier-Host Mac Version 0.56 (5.3).
Arduino 1.0.5.
Mac OS X 10.8.4 Mountain Lion.

My RAMBo no longer shows up as a USB device. Is there anything to try short of replacing the RAMBo board? Here's how it happened. I had finished up with the dial indicator, and reinstalled the hot end. I had to do this three times because of issues with the silicon tape I use to insulate it. On the ...

So on a hollow cube ( .2mm layers, abs) my first layer prints spot on, a 10 mm cube is 9.97, then you go up 20 layers and the plastic pulls in so the cube is ~9.82mm. Everything is lined up, no skewing, good adhesion on layers, good adhesion to the bed...the only thing is that it contracts as it mo...

You can also lower the head in increments of 0.01 mm from the printer's front panel. Main menu -> Position -> Z Position, then twist the knob. You can read the Z position on the LCD display.

The delta arms look very different. It will be interesting to see what they're like.

RAMBo is overkill for a low-end printer. A low-end board could have just exactly enough components for the printer as shipped.

Rostock MAX uses PTFE tubing in three places. The Bowden tube is PTFE. The thermistor leads are sleeved in PTFE. The hot end resistor leads are sleeved in PTFE. McMaster-Carr sells PTFE tubing in many sizes. For the thermistors, 5335K9 is the part number. For the resistors, it's 5335K13. I don't kno...

Hey, don't mock the lawn donkey. That particular donkey has its own Wikipedia page.

You've been reading the forum long enough. You know that there are pitfalls -- even for those who get everything working relatively painlessly (me, for example), there's a long path of iteratively calibrating, testing, and tweaking. And modifying, if you want to go there. I have gotten some lovely ...

I don't really understand why you want a different base, John. How do you expect this aluminum base to be better than the melamine base? Will it be better looking? Smaller? Bigger? More rigid? Heavier? Lighter? Easier to assemble? More exclusive? Have you looked at the Cerberus printer? (Cerberus is...

Set the infill to zero, as you said. Then set the number of perimeters to 1. (Print -> Layers and Perimeters ->Perimeters (minimum))

I think that when John Oly did DB maintenance a few days ago he damaged/lost some of the info about which threads and posts we've read. I know that just about every thread I haven't read in the last week is marked unread, but it doesn't show up in "View unread posts".

You've been reading the forum long enough. You know that there are pitfalls -- even for those who get everything working relatively painlessly (me, for example), there's a long path of iteratively calibrating, testing, and tweaking. And modifying, if you want to go there. I have gotten some lovely p...

That's about 7mm in new money. You could probably use 6mm plywood* if you're willing to edit the CAD files. (Make all the slots thinner and all the tabs shorter.) It might even come out better than the melamine version -- plywood is stiffer. Or give it a few coats of polyurethane to get it up to thi...

Is that your very first print? It's very good for a first. Mine looked more like organized spaghetti. You might try going through Polygonhell's extruder calibration procedure next. http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php?f=54&t=1163 There is a thread hiding somewhere on these fora that links to ...

Sounds like baud rate to me. In RH, do you see any messages from the printer when you connect to it? You should see something like this. 1:43:38 AM: Attempting to connect to printer 1:43:38 AM: Connection opened < 1:43:47 AM: start < 1:43:47 AM: FIRMWARE_NAME:RepetierMAX0.80 FIRMWARE_URL:https://git...

Is their a written test for the extruder to insure its working. How do you turn on the extruder to test it. Is their a you tube video showing how to check the extruder manually? There are buttons in Repetier Host labeled Extrude and Retract. There are also commands in the firmware/LCD menus to extr...

I have a cheap dial indicator. I got it at Horr'ble Fright last year for another project. http://www.harborfreight.com/1-inch-travel-machinists-dial-indicator-623.html I designed this nifty little mount for it. I designed and printed it back in June, but didn't get a photo of it on the printer until...

The 16 Amp OEM unit can be had on Newegg for about $17. For a cheap upgrade ($22) to a 25 Amp unit, check out this one: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817170028 Keep in mind that I'm biased -- my Logisys caught fire before I ever powered it on. That said, there's no way I'd b...

Thank you!

Yep, marine batteries ( Deep Cycle) are only different in that the lead plates are fewer and larger so car 12v (starter) batteries in series would work the same as a load for a charger. If it does simple load checking, if you have a high wattage resistor load that'd work for basic checks but that's...

Yes, I'm probably overthinking it. The primary reason I care is so that the Rostock MAX experience can be more repeatable. It bugs me that people are stripping belts. It bugs me that overtight belts might have caused cope413's motors to skip steps . If we had some kind of guideline -- "put N lb...

We do not know what the best tension on the Rostock MAX's drive belts is. Some people have belts so tight that they are wearing out or stripping teeth. Gene's Official Authoritative Manual says, "Play with it a bit and go with your instinct on it." Let's see if we can brainstorm a real ans...