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If it was MY printer, I'd cut replace the crimp sockets - you may have a set that's simply out of spec. I say that because I've got three v1s (all are 2013 vintage) that I've nearly beaten to death and of all the issues I've had, a) all are my own damn fault and b) never a motor connection. g. You ...

This is mostly a note to myself... My printer has about 43 days' run time now. That sounds like a lot, but I've had it almost 5 years. So it's only been running 2.4% of the time. Anyway, it occasionally messes up a print by having the X carriage lose position. Usually, the X carriage goes up too far ...

Many of you have not asked me about my avatar. Why three fists? Does that even make any sense? Finally, four years later, the answer can be revealed. I'd worked up some artwork for a T-shirt, which I never got around to finishing and ordering. But now I have. Here's what it looks like on a model who ...

Following up to myself. It's been another three years, and my arms are still holding together. I switched from hexagonal infill to rectilinear a while ago, and that cut way down on the vibration.

I had my arms come pre-assembled. After about a 9 months of use I had a couple of the ends start to come lose. A little super glue got them back in place firmly but they had a significant impact in my prints that was hard to track back down to it for such a small shift that they were having. Hi ...

Just a note to introduce myself. Just ordered my MAX and am looking forward to assembling and getting started. Spent many years working with AutoCAD in a previous career. Hoping that background will help me out with this. Hey, Altruego. I'm glad you found the forum. There are lots of helpful people ...

Hi, John.

I'm just over the hill in Eugene. I bought a MAX kit almost a year ago. Good luck with your new Orion!

Sure, foshon. It's over here. But I haven't updated it as much this one.

http://www.buildlog.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=1505

I haven't updated this build log for a month. But I have a good reason: I haven't done anything to my printer for a month -- actually, since August 10th, according to the posts on this thread. I'm printing all kinds of stuff, both useful and frivolous. Okay, mostly frivolous. The printer just works ...

Current Rostock MAX kits ship with 20 tooth pulleys and RAMBo v1.1, which has 16x microsteps. It sounds like you have an older kit with 15 tooth pulleys. You might also have RAMBo v1.0, which has 8x microsteps. 20 tooth, 16x => 80 steps/mm 20 tooth, 8x => 40 steps/mm 15 tooth, 16x => 106.67 steps/mm ...

I agree with Nylocke, especially if you're using a laptop. Most laptops do not play well with Mach 3, because Mach 3 needs hard realtime control of the PC, and most laptops have background tasks that you can't turn off. (Simplified explanation.) Mach 3, while very popular for mills and routers, is ...

Maybe you accidentally turned on Dry Run mode?
There's a button on the Print Panel to turn it on and off.

Very nice. I got sidetracked writing my own firmware; the electrical and mechanical parts have been 98% finished since February.

Binky, I took all of the rods off and measured them. The biggest disparity between the holes of any two rods was ~1.5 mm, which is fairly large. I also found that 3 of the rods did not have the holes drilled perfectly straight, which potentially skewed some of the measurements. I have put these ...

That is what became Blue Max. The discs are from the original Indiegogo machine and all the rest of the parts were cut based on the current production parts. My laser cutter is only 24x12, so I can't cut the platform discs. g. What kind of laser cutter do you have? I have had one under construction ...

I second Eaglezsoar's advice: VMs are just one more thing to go wrong. Besides, why'd you get a Mac if you're just going to run Windows apps? (-: As for the solid vases, many models are indeed solid. What you need to do is, create a profile in Slic3r for vases. Set it to have a single perimeter, set ...

Finally, here's a shot of the T-Slot supports. They're the same height, but the holes don't really line up. I think those are just for routing cables. Hopefully this won't be a problem for my build :P [img]http://myplace.frontier.com/~dean.macri/RostockMAX/DSC05613.JPG[/img] The small hole with the ...

Another change is necessary. There is some drift (number usually comes in .01 - .03 lower than it should be) caused by machine epsilon. inv_axis_steps_per_unit was defined as a float. I changed inv_axis_steps_per_unit from a float to a double (twice the accuracy) and where it was set to 1.0f ...

This sounds like a good opportunity for an independent developer to build quite a stable of printers, writing drivers for all of them. Not me, I'm allergic to Windows, but somebody.

Maybe your hot end thermistor came loose or disconnected. Check whether the hot end is really cool to the touch when the thermistor reads 30℃. N.B., if the thermistor is not working, the unregulated heater can destroy your hot end or burn your house down. So watch the printer carefully until you're s ...

You guys do know you can minimize tube flex by putting the 1.75mm tube inside the tube made for 3mm. It's a small tweak, but they all add up right? What? Are you putting PTFE sleeve inside PTFE sleeve? The sleeve I got from SeeMeCNC is about 4.2 mm OD. I can't see that fitting into a 3 mm ID sleeve ...

If you want to change the tone, look just slightly further down in Configuration.h. You can change the value of BEEPER_SHORT_SEQUENCE to change the sound. What's more, you can test different sounds by sending a magic G-code. My printer is in the middle of a long job, so I can't test this, but I ...

I almost forgot! One benefit of forcing the ascii mode is that sometimes the freeze or halt is more of a "really long" break your printer is taking. Wait up to 10 minutes and it often starts up again as if nothing happened. Can someone explain why the "HE double hockey sticks" this would happen? If ...

Mine are already printed at 30% honeycomb infill. Fortunately, I printed two so I have a spare. (-: I used the same green color, but with an orange nut.

What happened to the white one from IndieGogo that was in V1 of the manual?