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I Was going from 18 to 19 but I resolved it in the same manner as you suggested. Thank you for the quick response.

Firmware Version: 1.20 (2017-12-23) WiFi Server Version: 1.20 I tried updating the DuetWebControl to the most current version and it states: Error You cannot upload web interface files as a ZIP file on a Duet WiFi! Is this normal behavior? I unzipped the files and did the upload of the unzipped file...

Jimustanguitar wrote:Yep. A pin, small screwdriver, paperclip, etc.

That's what I thought. It worked on all my other connectors but on the one that came with the prewired whip I could not get them to release. Maybe I need to hit the gym some more and get some muscles.

How do you remove the wires from the old clip or are you just snipping them and restriping them for the new latching tab.

Im also in S Cal. Im just a few miles from the matter hackers store. That makes it handy for picking up filament when I dont have time to make it myself. I was on a Rostock v1 but am always doing overhauls to it. I am now running a max metal with trick trucks, I put in an accelerometer for calibrati...

I have an identical issue occur this week. My wires were not tinned and there was no wire bits protruding that cause a short.

I have not. Are you thinking the first layer is to thin so it is sticking to well?

The material was ABS

I was printing on a buildtak stuck to the glass. The print base was about 8.5 inches square and adhered to the builtak far to well.

Im printing some prints with a very large base. They are often getting stuck to the glass plate and Im unable to get them off. In yesterdays attempt the glass plate finally broke. That got me thinking. Why is a glass plate necessary? Can something like galvanized metal or copper be used? Will that c...

Geneb, you were right, it was a short. I resolved this long ago now but wanted anyone else encountering this issue to know what the resolution was. TY

I had my rostock perfectly calibrated with one print head. Now that I have upgraded to two print heads I cannot seem to get the horizontal radius figured out. Using repetier my Y offset in the eeprom is set to 1014 steps (extr1) and -1014 (extr2). The problem Im encountering my center point is accur...

Thank you for the part, it printed nicely and I have both my pieces mounted now. My Y offset on my rostock set in the eeprom to 1014 (extr1) and -1014 steps (extr2). Is that about what you have set? Also how did you calculate your horizontal radius. I was perfectly calibrated with a single extruder ...

I just wired in a new SeeMeCNC Bowden Hotend kit, prior to this the machine was working fine. The system connects to repetier fine and runs basic functions except where the hotend is concerned. The temperature reads correctly but when I try and heat up the hotend I can see the LCD flash with two sol...

Found the issue. It was a mistype on my start g-code. I had typed G1 Z3000 F300 instead of G1 Z300 F3000. Track down where it was hanging by using the echo on.

Ive been playing with my Rostock max in repetier. When running a print job it heats the bed then it heats the extruder. I can see on the rostock lcd panel that the extruder is heating but in the repetier software it tracks the temperature for 10 to 20 degrees than just keeps that temp. The Rostock L...

On page 58 of the doc I cannot find the 5/8" long #4 machine screws in that pic above. Man I wish the packages for the screws were labled or had numbers that the manual could refer to.