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doubling all the PID numbers does essentially nothing.

those PID values alone arent necessarily bad... what does your autotune results return? if you want to "reach" temp faster you would adjust the Kp value, just double it to see if you can reach temp. if you cant then you have other issues besides PID tuning.

I think that no controller board is a great way to sell machines.. concentrate on doing a single thing right!! Looks like a solid machine.

my bookmark to the forum is the active topics link just copy and paste this to your favorites!

http://forum.seemecnc.com/search.php?se ... ive_topics

kraegar wrote:Anyone got a mount print that'll work for the titan to the standard rostock max v2 mount? E3D doesn't have anything up yet.

they do have a 6 hole mount that you can screw in, listed under downloads on the wiki.

without some sort of mixing tube you probably wont get a perfect mixture...
[img]http://www.absolute-koi.com/images/categories/C1895.jpg[/img]

Preheating the bed defeats the purpose of the auto-tune process. g. I think you are incorrect. Can you explain why you think that, or point to evidence? By definition of PID controllers geneb is correct. Pmeyer, your first post said you preheated to 75, then set the pid tune to 75. THIS IS BAD! By ...

Got both of mine today, seemingly working well. Can answer questions after a couple more hours/prints

Aflac wrote:I have my currents at 1.5 amps, belts are very tight, printing at 30mm/s, no z lift during travels, that could be the culprit if you guys are correct about it hitting something, how much z lift do you recommend?

try 0.5mm

agree with everyone here about miss steps caused by collision of the head with something. getting the nozzle over some humps of plastic some times is a bitch.

what are your motor currents set to? what speeds are you printing at? are you using any z lift on travels? are your belts right?

Eaglezsoar wrote:
The ADC is probably not so easy to remove from the board and replace so you may end up sending it back to the manufacturer after all. Here's to hoping
that you can repair it your self.

you are quite right, this is probably directly to the cpu. not going to attempt that mess.

ZXMN4A06GTA is the fet part number, they only cost 2 bucks so its probably not worth it to send it back. The weird thing is that damn T1 temp sensor holding a value when OL. which means i might have damaged the adc or some of the components that its wired to.

well my 2.6 fan shorted out on my hotend today. blew this guy up!

https://goo.gl/photos/C49YDPd1cCjU1hww6

Also fried my t1 adc it looks like. it just sits constant at 22.3 deg and does not change values to "inf" when i remove the connection from my board.

Across the water:
http://e3d-online.com/Titan-Extruder

US:
https://www.filastruder.com/products/e3d-titan-extruder

If you choose a higher temp extruder, then you would want to choose a nozzle that fits that. check out e3d they have a few different nozzle types.

can you snap a photo right quick?

did you get from filastruder?

now that your bed is mapped thats fine, but i always drop my nozzle 10mm above the surface, and move it down incrementally then set the zheight using a piece of paper. then do M306 Z0 to ensure nozzle height is set correctly. This is done at temp.

those actually look pretty good, i made a quick list of things i noticed started from the first picture and going down. 1). those blobs might be indication of extra material being pushed out at the start of a new layer change. 2) the chimney looks a bit wobbly, extra fan blowing on the material woul...

Hi, i am trying to run the calibration but i have run into a snag. I get through the G29 ok, but when I do the G32 it stops very quickly. any ideas what i should change? SENDING:G32 [IC] Iterative calibration in progress. Press Reset to abort. [IC] /!\ PROBE CRASH DANGER /!\ Don't press buttons, se...

oh yes that looks like blockage. with new materials there are always steps to fine tune for your own machine... its best to slow things down and tweak from known working settings. set retracts to zero and work up from there, slow down the nozzle speeds and take your time for best results.

geneb wrote:I'm really hoping the new hot end with the accelerometer board will make the whole manual calibration thing a moot point.

g.

I enjoy these conversations resurfacing every couple months... auto calibration will make these forums boring.

east side represent!! (20 miles outside Walla Walla)

not sure what version onyx you have, be sure before you slap some metal on top to insulate any exposed traces!