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Cleaned and also re-sanded and re-cleaned using 99.9% IPA. NO luck getting ABS or PLA to stick particularly well. Good news is that the first layer is now looking really good and measures accurately - i.e. 0.25mm 1st layer measures as 0.25mm. Just need to figure out how to make this PEI stuff stick ...

Yep,I read that in the middle of cursing my printer. Rubbed salt into the wound! The closest thing I could get to IPA was some IPA wipes, but they were only 70% IPA, no idea what the other 30% might be - probably some sort of disinfectant as I guess these are for pre-injection cleaning of the skin ...

Yep it sounds like good stuff. I am just printing ABS at present to get this dialed in. I know it can be made to work, just need to figure out what I need to do to make the PEI want to stick to ABS. I might still not have the mechanical adjustments right, but then I'd expect even the glue stick to ...

Definitely not using oil of any sort. Bed at 85C, but I tried 80C up to 95C. Hot end is E3Dv6 at 230 currently but also tried range from 218 to 245. I measured 1st layer at 0.2mm with expected 1st layer set to 0.25 (up to 0.35 tried too). Also tried a range of 1st layer heights to try to get this ...

I must have a load of slippery ABS. I am struggling to get it to stick to PEI very well. It sort of tries to stick, but not at all well. The PEI is the Amazon 0.03" stuff, stuck down with 3M tape. I've washed it, sanded it, cleaned it with acetone, cleaned it with surgical spirit. I have ordered ...

I used 110 for the Extruder motor - although I am still experimenting and have raised the current to 130 for today to see if the motor gets hot. At 110, it barely warmed up.

Thanks Tonkabot, that is also a possibility - perhaps even more likely as the Rambo seems to behave perfectly 99.9% of the time. I don't remember performing that sequence of operations, but I did very likely mess around with preheat and manual stepper controls in MC along with USB connects and ...

Also, now that you mention it, I have had a few shutdowns, but they were around accessing the SD card when I had first built the printer. I've not had any repeats of the shutdowns recently and have printed via both the SD card as well as over USB. I haven't noticed any shutdowns due to PSU load ...

This is a new v2. Host software being used is matter control and occasionally repetier host. Looks like I better pull the board and have a good long look.

The version of MatterControl I have installed on my Mac does not have the filter checkbox, but the windows version does. Anyway, for PID tuning, it's useless as you've found out. This is what I do instead: 1) Click the clear button to clear out any logging already written to the terminal window. 2 ...

That's the one.

I have no idea what causes it, but my EEPROM settings have reset back to 'factory defaults' yet again. Last time it happened was a couple of weeks ago. The time printing and filament used get reset back to 0 and I have to re-calibrate axis and PIDs. This time I've taken a backup, but it would be ...

I've ordered 10 of the dampers from astrosyn, so if anyone in the UK wants a set, let me know. Astrosyns minimum order is 10 units, but we only need 3.

One more thing. If it's the extruder motor, I reduced the current setting to 110 so that it now runs quite cool. If it's one of the X, Y or Z motors, then the current setting stated in the comments in the configuration header file seems to work, I just can't recall what the value was right now - I ...

Did you try reducing the current setting for the Kysan axis in configuration.h?

I'm in the UK too. Got my Rostock Max from Robosavvy for under 900 delivered to Northern Ireland. The MDF parts were all melamine coated, not sure the kit would work at all well without the coating. I agree with replacing the RAMBO fan with the noctua. The stock hotend worked well for me, but I had ...

travelphotog wrote:Any votes on Metric or SAE sizes guys? Either 4-40 or M3? Which ever we decide I will use moving forward.

I vote M3 - getting those weird sizes imperial sizes is a pain

Not sure how others have attached a heater cartridge to the stock hotend - I just used a bit of Ultra Copper.

That looks more or less how I mounted the stock hotend to the yellowjacket board - had to add a couple of washers under the nut, but could have gone either side of the board along with the stock spacer. The E3dv6 had to have more than 1/4" added - more like 1/2" (13mm was my guess). The E3dv6 fan ...

The yellow jacket board does not have any good way of holding the E3Dv6. There is a triangular part that can be printed to press the top of the hot end against the yellow jacket, but I think an alloy triangular wedge that clamps around the top of the hot end and bolts to the underside of the yellow ...

Looks great. Will there be a YellowJacket variant?

I did not follow the manual when setting the motor current level and chose to go with the comment values instead. They seem to work fine, although I am considering reducing the extruder current value to somewhat lower than 160 because the extruder motor still gets very hot. Maybe 105 as has been ...