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I would proceed carefully and not modify them at all. I've ordered well over 30 of the .4mm nozzles in the last year in 6 different batches and they have all been spot on. Did you get yours direct from E3D or from a reseller? If a reseller, I would raise the flag with them. If from E3D you might ...

I agree, hence my interest. Bending the acrylic to pop-off prints is a great idea, although it probably costs some even-ness of the surface. Sooner or later you will get a bend that does not go away. And the temp acrylic can withstand without being weakened is about 60 degrees which is on the low ...

...leaving a tiny gap between the nozzle and heat block. Yeah, I remember your investigation concerning the long orifice of the nozzle, combined with the tiny gap you just mentioned. As it happens to be I received some 0.4 nozzles in the mail few days ago, and measured orifice lengths of 1.2 to 1 ...

Xenocrates wrote:I happen to be 17, and so somewhat understand how teenagers think.

Haha, that does not show a lot in the nice contributions you make here!
(coming from a relatively oldie... )

That is an idea, and my thermocouple is really small so it might fit. But the whole point is that we all have to use the same method, else it will still be guessing if we exchange temperature settings

Hmm, never saw that article on the website before so I guess it is pretty new. Would like to know what it is exactly, and if it works as intended. In my experience laminate gets damaged pretty easy when removing parts. In that regard it might be rather expensive.

Which one is you Eaglezsoar?

I used to be within .02mm when doing the tower calibration routine, and now I'm off by .2mm in some spots. Check the firmness of the distanceholders under the bed. Probably one is squeezed a bit. I assume us use the glass to print on, so that is probably pretty even. In my view the endscrews are ...

MrDestinE wrote:The only downfall is, I can watch it for hours...

True, I feel the same... But since there is nothing more interesting than that on TV I do not experience that as a problem...

Holy1 wrote:Plus it is free for hobbyists.

For one year... Looks like you have to do some annual qualification if you want to keep using it.

You are right, the IR thermometer I have is unable to measure the nozzle nor the heaterblock. Maybe if I paint it black...

So, after having seen many people tell about hotend temps, and seen many discussions about the difference of what a "guessistor" thinks the temp is, and what it in reality is, I ordered a simple thermocouple on bangood and did some measuring. I usually print ABS at 235 C set temp. I hung the ...

626Pilot wrote:I'm looking for feedback from people who have experience working with CNC mills, in terms of build quality, choice of drivetrain components, backlash, accuracy, and how well it's likely to stand up to machining forces.

Hmm, I guess you got what you asked for...

A real Friday afternoon joke... but it was posted on Thursday...

Well, that's a contribution to this forum we can do without...
C'mon Gene, speaking for myself, I DO appreciate your humouristic approach...

Yes, I have positive experience with ABS juice. It did the trick for me without having to use expensive kapton or PEI surfaces. Before it worked I had to scarce tye glass with a painters grinding pad however, else even the slurry would not adhere enough. Sometimes it is difficult to get the part off ...

OK I am beginning to suspect that my nozzle is clogged. If your nozzle is clogged, you would notice your filament slipping in the ezstruder. That usually makes a clicking sound and you can actually feel the filament going backwards after a pressure buildup. If that is not happening you probably ...

I can add several send to position buttons in the next version (which will also depend on the bed diameter and z height). I will probably be able to do a couple updates in about a week. That would be awsome and relief us of having to us our own scripts, while reducing errors because of different ...

I know that aluminium transfers heat pretty well, but would it be possible that the Onyx reports the temp at the onyx bed, while the temp at the PEI surface is just not there yet? I have no experience using PEI, but if I would have to print at 130 degrees I would not even want that experience ...

Maybe I misunderstood, Jim, but are you running the whole mikmak just on 15A?
Then why do SeeMe and most of the forumbrothers here advice a PSU around 30A?

My guess is that it does probe more often at each point to tune in to exact zero point while compensating for the momentum of the head at the time of the impact.

Don't know about the extrusions as grounding, but I once led 2 layerfanwires through one of the extrusions because the fellow I bought it from forgot that during his build. I managed with a lot of fiddling to pull them through the X tower, without any dismantling, using a very thin iron thread. But ...

Good point Starfish, I ordered a dedicated Thermocouple through bangbuck for less than 17 European bucks...

BeOS is the only Operating system I once intentionally bought.
All Others I tried where "given" with hardware, downloaded freeley or <ahem> hacked some way <ahem>

Yeah, it beats anything that is on TV anyway...