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If you can't keep touching it because it's too hot, it is too hot...
Make the change in firmware like mentioned above.

228 C is exactly what I use to print, and I have no layerbondingproblems whatsoever. Of course it is a good idea to check the real temp to what the thermistor thinks it is. However I still have not taken my time to check for a not too expensive thermocouple (suggestions welcome!). I read somewhere ...

Now I get the grasp of it (a bit), Opendact wants me to change the steps per millimeter from 80 to 81.19738. I think that is dangerous, and my print height will be wrong if I do that. The Alpha Rotation has been steady for a few iterations. Is it normal for OpenDact to want to change Steps? My ...

Thanks for the tip da40flyer! I guess my expectations were to high, and thought that the positioning would be done by opendact, just that the readings would have to be manual because of the absence of a probe or FSR. Rollie, I guess that must be the next TAB under advanced: semi-automatic ...

Thanks, CF PLA Composite looks very promising. I have my E3Dv6 mounted conventionally above the effector, and am very interested in Jim's effector with integrated layer cooling. But I am not sure jet, Perhaps I wil try to make a custom bird air first to see how that works out. So much to choose from ...

Rollie, can you please say something about the procedure of manual calibration? I have my Rostock connected and am aware of the US locale settings. I think I have that covered. However the machine is completely silent after pressing "Manually Calibrate". Maybe I have incorrect expectations, bu I ...

Lots of folks seem te be printing their own effector plates. Mostly in ABS I guess. That's something I would like to explore, but I am a bit concerned that the ABS material characteristics are not optimal for exact positioning of the print head, especially at higher speeds, because it is a rather ...

mhackney wrote:I do and she does! I also have several large printed vases on prominent display including 1 in our china cabinet. Maybe I'm lucky?

I guess she loves you more than my wife loves me... On the other hand, I never got her a china cabinet, maybe that's the difference...

Tincho85, that looks very nice! Still I would make a similar connection on the hotend side also, for making quick hotend changes without having to make compete wiretrees for each (not that I have that many but still...) The idea of a seperate wiretree is quite apealing, and nicely pictured in the ...

Mine does not make any sound either, except from a short dry tick when the knob is pressed.
Not sure if that is normal, because I never read anything about it making any music.

Does your peek fan shutdown before the hotend gets below 50 degrees?
The standard firmware from SeemeCNC is setup to keep the peekfan running intil it droppes below 50 degrees C.
Therefore you must also not power off your machine until the fan stops on it's own.

Looks really great mhackney, but I doubt you have them in a glass display in your livingroom...
And if you do (what would not even surprise me that much) is that really because of your wife liking them so much?

I know Gene, but I like them!
I don't suppose they are not good for the job are they?

Guess the cow should sit very quietly...

Nice of you to show the connector-solder-video. I just received a few XT30 connectors. I know the XT60 is very popular, but this one is less bulky and should be able to handle 30amps. I cant believe the amount of solder going in! I guess it needs to be "filled up" all the way?

Gene, I thought PID tuning has to do with keeping the temp fluctuations to a minimum after target temp has been reached. How is pre-heating affecting that?

I posten a lot like this OP on an other thread few days ago, so I am quite happy with pmeyer's findings and teoman's suggestion! Will set the higher Max value later today and check the improvement. I am not an impatient guy but 30 minutes to 90 degrees just seems not needful. The manual indeed does ...

So, I took the time to do some measurements... If all is idle (machine is on, but no heating is done and no fans are turning) I measure 11.75V going into the Rambo (upper 2 contacts from the power connector on the Rambo) When I start the heated bed (ordinary 12V setup) the Voltage drops to about 11 ...

It took over 35 minutes to heat my onyx bed to 100 with the stock power supply. I changed to a larger adjustable voltage power supply. It now takes around 10 minutes to get to 100 at 12.5v. At 15v it takes around 5 minutes to get to 100. This power supply has a current meter so you can ensure it ...

So essentially you have to keep the SeeMe Chat opened during print...
You don't want to know how many IT problems I solve daily just by listening to customers explain them. Problems solve automagically once the have me on the phone!

I totally agree! I am never ever able to find something back on facebook. But it is nice to see progression of someones mod adventures on FB. If you want REAL information (to read or to share), the forum is the best place.

Swell! I need to remember myself to watch the video later today...
What firmware did you use, on what kind of board?

No, the tool change is something completely different, and does not occur in simple one-colour prints. I don't mean to undermine Xenocrates's expertise (at all! He has much more experience than me..) but I doubt if it is because of retraction. In my view there is always a little bulb at the end of ...

This is actually a very common time to be awake in the Netherlands... ;-) Your stream is not very clear, I can't see any problem from it. But you already determined that there is no clogg, and if extruder is slipping you usually can hear a clicking sound. I think either your filament roll is not ...

Just my gut speaking, and without any mathematical proof, but my guess is that the wider the diameter you use for calibration, the more accurate the calibration is. This because it would make sense that the larger the traveldistances are, the bigger the possible misalignment faults are. Of course if ...