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javiercordero20 wrote:Hello All,


Anyone get any closer to a S3D profile for the V3? I'm not a big fan of MatterControl.


Sincerely,
J.D. Cordero

Did you try the one I posted? Are you having problems with it? It's working fine for me.

Most of this is copied from another thread. Just putting it here to help others. After building my Max V3, I was surprised how weak the bed heating performance is in a stock config. Mine would never go over @95C without a washcloth on the bed. You can turn the power supply output voltage up to 14V ...

Before doing a PS upgrade on my V3, I first turned the voltage up to around 14.5. There's a voltage drop in the control FETs and the wiring to the bed, so that was the value which resulted in just under 15A on the bed fuse circuit. It mostly worked, but sometimes, the system would not power on ...

Just start it at 90C instead of 100C.

Testing:
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZMrcvHgBeAg[/youtube]

So far, from my experience, I would definitely not re-run the script unless there's a reason to (like you moved the printer to a new location or had a first-layer problem).

Some auto-calibration runs are definitely better than others, so if you have a good one, keep it.

Yeah, I ended up turning the retraction settings down significantly. I was printing some of this barrel ( http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:950024 ) for testing and the built-in retraction values for a Max V2 in simplify3d left a pretty big seam gap. Other than that and adjusting the build area, I ...

I added a #6 washer under each of the hold-down clips so I could snug them down and have an even tension on each to (hopefully) reduce the non-planar forces on the bed.

Has anyone installed them on a Max V3 yet? I bought some and had them on hand when I first built my V3, but since the belt tensioning is done through the motor mounts, I chickened out and didn't install them. It would probably work OK, but you end up with only one screw preventing the belts from ...

One problem is that the I2C protocol is pretty susceptible to data errors from external electrical sources, especially with long wiring. I think that may be why the probing is always done cold, so the heater is not turning on and off.

This looks like a great, simple mod. Thanks! I think I'll do it to help keep the base cooler and reduce power consumption, even though I already upgraded my PS and my bed will now heat to 100C in around 3 minutes.

It wouldn't work due to the arms. They could be up even higher and in more and facing striaght up though ( I think, not certain if there's enough room for that ). Something like that could definitely work if you made 3 different shrouds with different lengths. The extruder fan is blowing most of the ...

I published my whole enclosure design with instruction here: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1796438

I used some 3MM machine screws with nyloc nuts to mount my rambo fan.

Now that my enclosure is complete, I'm thinking of moving it and blocking the lower vents to get fresh air from the outside instead of the build area.
I already did something like that on the bottom.

If you do the same, make sure you get a high-quality MOSFET-based SSR. Don't buy a Fotek or SHZE. They have huge internal resistance and will heat up and fail, even with a large heatsink, thermal paste and good airflow. When they fail, they fail in the "on" state and could easily cause a fire. I ...

I've been using a Pi 3 running Octoprint for a few months and it's been great for control, scheduling and monitoring, video streaming, and creating of time-lapses. What problems did you have with the Pi2? Were you trying to use it for slicing? I pre-slice everything in Simplify3D and just send gcode ...

Eaglezsoar wrote:Has anyone found the files on Thingiverse and can provide a link?

The shrouds are now available at: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1792867

Here's a photo with the enclosure (except the door, I decided to buy a thicker piece of plexiglass for that. [img]http://i86.photobucket.com/albums/k107/Noircogi/Max3_Noircogi_zpsbz51v6hh.png[/img] I did think to paint the LCD enclosure before assembly, but not the skates. I wish I had, but not ...

Congrats!

duvdev wrote:Cool.

Can you share the file?

I put it on thingiverse, but it seems I need to wait another day to share it since it's a new thingiverse account.

I'm working on an enclosure for my Max V3. The stock part fan setup provides a massive amount of cooling, but it also hangs significantly outside the extents of the base plate at full travel. I wanted to build a nice, compact enclosure but the fan setup prevents that. As a fix, I made some fan ...

I tried both Astroprint and Octoprint when I got my first 3D printer a few months ago. Astroprint is much easier to set up and probably good if you want to use their slicer. The biggest drawback of Astroprint is that its video streaming only supports a very limited set of client devices. Octoprint ...

What is the question? The number one thing is to make sure you remove the metal tabs from the limit switches before you assemble the top base plate. If you already assembled it and didn't remove them, take out the two screws below each tower and reach int with needle nose pliers to pop them off. The ...

I was able to get a 2-pin JST connector onto the +5 and gnd pins of the "Analog" pin header right next to the display adapter board to power mine.

I didn't buy the kit because I already had an r pi 3 sitting around looking for a job, so I don't know what they recommend.

I think I'm going to make some fan shrouds and move the layer fans up and in. Then I should get nearly full size with the tight enclosure.